rack and pinion
10-26-03, 07:06 PM
#1
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
rack and pinion
Can someone explain to me the differences in rack-n-pinion and reciprocating ball steering? Is rack/pinion that much better or does it really matter? Could an FC rack fit an FB?
10-26-03, 07:16 PM
#3
Mazda4Life
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
10-26-03, 07:24 PM
#4
FD > FB > FC
Originally posted by Makenzie71
Also, are there other things that could be swapped from a S4 RX7 onto an FB?
Also, are there other things that could be swapped from a S4 RX7 onto an FB?
10-26-03, 07:36 PM
#5
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
yeah...howstuffworks is a great site BUT I already know how it works. I've never, however, driven a car with recirculating ball steering. Which one is better...what's the difference between them? THNX horn...
10-26-03, 08:15 PM
#6
add to cart
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Saskatoon, SK & Montreal, PQ
Posts: 4,180
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In a rack and pinion steering system, the pressure of the gear against the rack pushes the rack back and forth - very little slop.
In a recirculating ball system, the ***** over time get worn. The very nature of the design allows for some slop (else the ***** would be locked in place) and as they wear it exacerbates the problem.
Furthermore, recirculating ball relies on multiple linkages through the pitman arm, idler arm, etc. before the tie rods are actually moved. Each of these linkages has bearings and bushings that wear over time. A rack, in contrast, is connected to the tie rods with very few total number of bearings in the complete system. It's smaller, lighter, and more precise.
In a recirculating ball system, the ***** over time get worn. The very nature of the design allows for some slop (else the ***** would be locked in place) and as they wear it exacerbates the problem.
Furthermore, recirculating ball relies on multiple linkages through the pitman arm, idler arm, etc. before the tie rods are actually moved. Each of these linkages has bearings and bushings that wear over time. A rack, in contrast, is connected to the tie rods with very few total number of bearings in the complete system. It's smaller, lighter, and more precise.
10-26-03, 08:32 PM
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
well it's possible to "swap" the FC into FB. I have done it. As you can see from the sig. But you need a lot of tools and time for fabrication.
If yours is sloppy, you can tighten it up. I am sure someone will post up the link to the page that explains how to take away some of the sloppiness.
Good luck
If yours is sloppy, you can tighten it up. I am sure someone will post up the link to the page that explains how to take away some of the sloppiness.
Good luck
Trending Topics
10-26-03, 08:49 PM
#9
Rotary Enthusiast
well u need to have a shop or access to a shop for sure.
Bunch of welding for the new holes for the FC subframe.
Some cutting and drilling on the FB frames. Lots of measuring to make sure the engine will sit in the proper position.
After that you have to run front FC suspension and bolt pattern. either 5x4.5 or 4x4.5. If you car is GSL-SE, you already have 4x4.5, so that's not too bad. If not, then you will have different wheel in front than back. Unless you go ahead and do something about the back like I did.
Plus the front suspension on the FC sits about an inch too high, so you have to get some aftermarket ones and lower the car or modify the shock and the spring perch.
Bunch of welding for the new holes for the FC subframe.
Some cutting and drilling on the FB frames. Lots of measuring to make sure the engine will sit in the proper position.
After that you have to run front FC suspension and bolt pattern. either 5x4.5 or 4x4.5. If you car is GSL-SE, you already have 4x4.5, so that's not too bad. If not, then you will have different wheel in front than back. Unless you go ahead and do something about the back like I did.
Plus the front suspension on the FC sits about an inch too high, so you have to get some aftermarket ones and lower the car or modify the shock and the spring perch.
10-26-03, 09:26 PM
#13
Rotary Enthusiast
Well I have a lot of pictures available at my site if you want to take a look at them: http://www.bcrx7.com/omid.php
There are quite a bit of pictures on there, so it will take a while to load up.
There are quite a bit of pictures on there, so it will take a while to load up.
10-26-03, 11:24 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 382
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does teh CPracing kit replace the rod taht the steering wheel slides onto? Today i fucked mine up royally and i am thinking this kit is what i need to fix my problems and an excuse so i can upgrade.
Zachstylez
Zachstylez
10-26-03, 11:31 PM
#16
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you mean the steering column?
The kit uses the double u joint linkage from the VW Rabbit to connect the steering column spline to the pinion spline on the rack.
If I misunderstood you question, my apologies. In any case, you should contact CPracing to ask them directly. They are the only authoritative source of info on this kit.
FWIW, I have two VW racks that I pulled, and I hope to get at least one kit in December.
BTC
The kit uses the double u joint linkage from the VW Rabbit to connect the steering column spline to the pinion spline on the rack.
If I misunderstood you question, my apologies. In any case, you should contact CPracing to ask them directly. They are the only authoritative source of info on this kit.
FWIW, I have two VW racks that I pulled, and I hope to get at least one kit in December.
BTC
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
joel(PA)
Group Buy & Product Dev. FD RX-7
8
10-04-15 06:07 PM
joel(PA)
Race Car Tech
0
10-01-15 10:25 AM
