My brother and I were driving around town in his 84 GSL and we get to a stop sign and suddenly it just starts to sputter and we get half way across the intersection and it just quits on us.

Well, we push it into a lot and check it out. Battery still attached....plugwires look normal...ignition wise, everything looked fine. But then I looked at the float bowls and noticed they were pretty damn empty. Then checked the fuel filter and noticed that it too was dry...so I'm thinking. The pump just suddenly it would quit after 22 years of service. (Mind you this car has only 62k original miles)

So...You guys...how hard is it to get to the pump and how easy would it be to replace? Can I take the one off my 82 and put it on his? How expensive is a new one from mazda?

Any help is appreciated..thanks

 

Fuel pump is not hard to get to. It is behind a metal shield under the car which must be removed to access the pump. Not too hard at all to get to. I think the 82 will work. 82 to 83 had different part numbers but I think like a lot of parts it should still work ok. I would try it anyhow before buying a new one. Not sure about Mazda's prices but Victoria British sells them new for $149.95 + shipping.

 

****, don't pay $150 for a stock pump. Go to www.jegs.com and get a good pump and pressure regulator.

 

Could be the fuel pump cut relay, couldn't it?

 

Check the fuse first, under the dash. On my 82 its the only one that is off to the side opposite the others, which are in parallel rows.

 

I payed 122.00 for mine....i just installed it today infact...runs great now....EXCEPT (there is alwyas an EXCEPT)...why the **** is my TACH going crazy...its all jumpy now...and this didint happen right away after i installed the fuel pump either...i drove it around town for a while...then went to my friends place...after i left my freinds place it started to do this....the Tach is all jumpy...and its hesitating a little...what could it be now....i have alll new fuel pump and filter...all new dizzy stuff.........hmmm....any ideas guys? i have an 82' GS

 

The tach jumping is from something wrong with the trailing ignition.

 

so what does that mean....i dont know much when it comes to the ignition area? what can i do to fix this

 

Try this it's easy enough to do...next time the tach gets jumpy, turn off the ignition and turn the key tumbler slowly to start the car. I had a short in my key switch, once. Tach was jumping from zero to 3-4k. Ultimately, I had to replace the key switch.

 

We are kind of hijacking fayes thread here, but...... you could just need a cap, rotor, and crap like that. Im not entirely sure. Mine use to jump and quit when i removed my rats nest

Im not much of an ignition man either, thats jeff20b's job

BTW, lets not keep stealing this thread, you can start a new one on this topic

 

What sort of pump would I need? And regulator? haha...we may be getting into to too much work here or maybe not. What am I looking at if I go that route? I'm sure I could do it, the question is...do I want to do it?

Anyways, thanks for the response. By the way...when he went back to his car to put the sunroof back on it...he tried to start it up..and it started up fine and he drove home on it. What do you think of this? Bad relay?

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but there isn't really a relay for the fuel pump in these cars, when the key is "on" it runs, the return line does the rest. And relays either work or they don't, no sometimes do and sometimes don't. Maybe some trash in the pump made it hiccup. Who knows, keep an eye on it.

 

The fuel pump in my 1985 GS with the 12a does have a relay...it's under the dash connected to a six wire connector. The pump does not turn on until your cranking, unless you put a jumper wire between the blue/white wire and the center black wire, then the pump will run in the on position. One time I installed a battery tie-down rubber cord thingy and accidentally disconnected one of the coils I started the engine and it ran fine but the tach was jumping so before I took off I turned off my engine, popped the hood and looked for a problem. I had unhooked one of the coils, of course the engine was not running when i touched the ignition wire, I reconnected it and problem solved. Check for spark on Trailing plugs which (i think) are the top ones, indicated by a "T" on the distributor cap.

 

Yeah...gonna check the relay tomorrow probably. (There are relays on the 84-85 models I believe. My 82 does not have one as it's fuel pump does run when only in the on position.

 

ugh...new cars are so much less of a headache...i dont get it

 

I have to go to Chicago on Monday and Tuesday, hope it doesnt break down on me there.

 

new cars i find are MORE of a hassle, so much electrical crap to go wrong and if you dont have warranty your screwed i like my 20 year old car, i can usually find out whats wrong with it within an hour or two, and rarely anything electric goes wrong with it other then the ignition...

 

i agree 100% percent. When computers, sensors, injectors go bad they really mess one up, specially when they are emissions related. Several times i had it where a modern thing had gone wrong in my piston cars and they could not be driven. You unplug that part and the car runs fine, which means it was not needed in the first place. And finding which part was bad was even harder most of the time. Needing a scan which most of the time is not done right anyway.