vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Hey All,

So as an update to my ongoing "let's get this car back on the road" project, I bought an 82GS Nikki off Rxcetera.

For the Carb Experts:
Exactly what differences are there between the carb off an '82GS and the carb I took off my '84GS (which is currently in pieces)?

Should I experience any difficulties installing the new carb that I should know about (which I plan to do Saturday)?

The carb also has had some of the emissions control stuff removed, and the vacuum holes plugged on it. I'm sorry I can't be more specific, though I'll see if I can get digital pics up in the next few days. The question remains though: Do I have to plug the vacuum connections at the rats nest as well?

I'm not taking it (the rats nest) out yet, it has to look "intact" for the safety... They don't test emissions quality but the system has to be there and "intact". I doubt the people doing the safety would know what a rotary engine's emissions system is supposed to look like, so as long as it's properly capped and looks like it's supposed to be that way, it'll probably pass.

Thanks for the answers in advance, sorry for the semi-novel

Jon

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

And since my opening post didn't include my sig (I'm assuming it does that when you start a new thread) I am posting here just to leave the sig, to give you guys an idea of what I'm doing as my "project" in case you hadn't stumbled across my ramblings concerning it before.

Jon

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Anybody??

[bump][/bump]

Jon

karism

Well, you can close off the vacuum point,except the ones going to your izzy,and then obviuosly to the brake booster.The rest you can block off.

Does it still utilise the vacuum secondary butterflies ?

1st to 3rd

The two carbs are the same and install is a fairly simple task.
You have to cap the rats nest. To make it look less suspicious, you may want to use short lenghts of vacuum hose and tie the solonoids together. Vacuum caps may raise a few eyebrows.
Are you keeping the vacuum advance on the dist?

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

karism - not sure about the butterflies (read: clueless), but with a bit of explaining I'd darn well be able to find out!

1st to 3rd - Pretty sure I wanna keep the vacuum advance on the dizzy, I'm going to the Rx7 show in Ottawa tomorrow, then coming back to work on installing the carb, I'll post questions and pics as I have them. I've got two friends coming along with digital cameras

Jon

Sterling

Are you able to put all the hoses back on? You can insert bearing ***** or something similar in some of the hoses that you want to block off, and then put them back on. Looks like it always did, but you've "capped" the vac lines.

Sterling

-Gotta retain the oil filler tube line to the carb. This is the PCV vent (positive crank ventilation-"positive" as in meaning the carb vacuum sucks out water vapor in the crank). Look it up, there are extensive threads about it. Maybe check the archives.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Okay guys, here's the latest scoop:

Got the carb on.. I picked up my Heynes from 30 mi away, and some springs that I was missing, followed the manual and got it installed. There are only 1 or two orphan hoses that I can't find homes for, but almost everything the book says to do I could and did do.

So we get it hooked as well as we figure for, and go to crank the car over.... turn turn turn... no catching....
Sprinkle a little gas in through the carb, it starts no problem.
Checked the fuel in lines making sure fuel was coming to the carb
Turn turn turn, no start.
Take off the return line, leave the fuel-in line... Turn... wait a sec, fuel is coming out the return in a *big* way...

So from what I can see, the fuel's going into the carb, making a U-turn, and bee-lining it straight back out the return line....

Can this be caused by a vacuum problem? I'll post pics tomorrow of the "orphan hoses" but the only reason they're orphan is because the carb I bought had a few holes plugged. "useless emissions stuff" he said. Any ideas?

Jon

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Oh, another quick thing:

The hot start assist. I couldn't hook it anywhere... I'll have to take pictures, but it wouldn't fit into any of the brackets. The brackets have two holes, one of which is large, the second of which is smaller and has flat sides, so that you have to orient the lines a certain way.. The only problem is that my hot-start assist doesn't have the flat sides that my choke cable does, so it will fit nowhere.

As well, when we went to start the car, the hot start assist made quite the buzzing noize, pulled in, and kept buzzing, to the point of where we had to unplug it. Weird...

Any ideas? Still promising pics

Jon

Sterling

Is there fuel in your float bowls? The fuel level should be right in the center of the sight glasses. You need to tell if the floats are hanging up.

1st to 3rd

Did you didn't check the floats or needle drop before installing? It's common for them to become fuckulated during shipping/handling.
Take the hot start assist and kick it across the garage. It's about as useful as the cold start assist. All it does is crack the throttle open a little... that is IF it works at all.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

There *is* fuel in the float bowls, yeah at about half mark, tho god knows if that's my fuel, or fuel there from when I bought the carb. Probably mine.

Didn't check anything before installing, 'cause I don't really know how to check *anything*.... Andy said that he took it off last summer, and that it was running fine, he just took it off to use his dellorto. I *tried* to be cautious when transporting, but anything could have happened between last year when the carb was taken off, and 3 days ago when I got it back here...

So how do I adjust what in the where now? (floats/needle drop)

Jon

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Okay... went out today, didn't do much because of the rain.... but came up with some new info:

I sprinkled a little gas into the carb, got in, pulled the choke all the way and started it.. It ran, as I expected, off the gas I trickled in... Then it actually started running for longer... the choke held it at 3000rpm, but as soon as I pushed in even a little, it would die. Aparently I *can* have it running under it's own power, but it dies very easily and was a bugger to start the first time.

My dad was looking down the carb and said it wasn't spraying into the barrels, more like dripping...

Again I think.. could this be a major vacuum leak problem? or should I turn my attention to a more powerful fuel pump? If it's the pump, then why is the gas going into the carb, and most of it right back out the return? I don't think it's a blockage in the carb because it happened on the old carb too.

Jon

Sterling

You have a vacuum leak. Why don't you have RXcetera help you? He said he rebuilds and even modifies carbs all the time?

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Because I'd have to drag him over from where he lives out in the middle of bumf*ck nowhere... and with the meet he's been busier than a dog in heat. If I can find another local guy around Ottawa who has a stock GS, it would be perfect, 'cause then I'd be able to compare my tube setup.

In the meantime, I guess I'll have to go on the assumption that it's simply just a vacuum leak I have to fix, and do my best to fix it on Wednesday when the sun reappears and I don't have exams.

And this is the point where I'd like to thank ALL members of this forum, (especially Sterling in this thread!) for being such an awesome community. Thanks guys!

Jon