Quick question about converting a 6-port 13B to a 4-port.
#1
Quick question about converting a 6-port 13B to a 4-port.
So I now have a GSL-SE 13B in my shed half disassembled. I'm debating using 12A irons to convert from a 6-port intake system to a 4-port so I can street port it. If I use the 12A parts, do I still need the GSL-SE front cover, and does this change what Master Overhaul set I'm planning on getting from Atkins? Searching hasn't led me to a definite answer yet.
Also, just for kicks, is it worth the trouble of street porting a 4 port vs. the 6-port I have now? I understand street porting the 6 is not a safe idea, and this is for a carb'ed daily driver. I'm thinking Weber 48, but I haven't decided yet.
TIA
Also, just for kicks, is it worth the trouble of street porting a 4 port vs. the 6-port I have now? I understand street porting the 6 is not a safe idea, and this is for a carb'ed daily driver. I'm thinking Weber 48, but I haven't decided yet.
TIA
#2
for starters, all the front covers on the pre'86 engines r the same. and i don't think there's much difference if any about the overhaul kits either. use all ur SE parts, provided they're within spec, with the 12a irons and port away.
#3
The GSL-SE front cover is different from the 12A front covers... it's mainly useful for the 4 line oil metering pump. It has the 1st gen engine mounts but the 2nd gen oil metering making it extremely handy for engine swaps, but if you are switching to 4-port you are also probably switching to premix, so it's probably more valuable to someone trying to do a swap.
Streetporting on a 4-port is much more productive than a 6-port.
Streetporting on a 4-port is much more productive than a 6-port.
#4
As noted, the difference between the front covers is 2 or 4 mop lines. I would use the SE front cover and housings to gain the 2 extra mop lines, along with the largr SE oil pump, but that wil mount on either front iron. As far as the end irons, Go with the 12A ones as they can be ported to a higher hp potential than the 6-port ones can be. You would need to bp the aux ports on the 6-ports, and have the aux ports working, to achieve similiar hp output as you could with a 4-port street port.
As far as which rebuild kit, the SE one will work fine with the exception of the intake gasket. You can either order the 74-78 intake gasket or make your own, which I frequently do.
As far as which rebuild kit, the SE one will work fine with the exception of the intake gasket. You can either order the 74-78 intake gasket or make your own, which I frequently do.
#5
Originally Posted by trochoid
As far as which rebuild kit, the SE one will work fine with the exception of the intake gasket. You can either order the 74-78 intake gasket or make your own, which I frequently do.
#6
Originally Posted by fluffysheap
The GSL-SE front cover is different from the 12A front covers... it's mainly useful for the 4 line oil metering pump.
#7
If it was me, (I run a streetported 6 port with a camden), I would go with the 6 port end irons and the 12a center iron. I would use the stock lower intake and in the first gen for sale section there was a side draft with RB upper that I would mount to the stock lower. Then I would bridgeport the 5th & 6th ports with functional actuators https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/frankenstein-motor-pics-inside-610501/ . I would also streetport all the other ports. Stick with the stock SE rotors and flywheel, this will give good torque and help with a good launch. Finally add a 50hp shot of nos and you'll have a nice light streetable car running close to 200 rwhp with good torque.
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#8
If you are comfortable with them and can install them correctly I would also consider the Pineapple inserts. This combination wouold be my dream n/a motor. I personally would bridge the other ports on the endplates for a little more and to have the nice brap as well. Most importantly is to keep the 5&6 ports functional to maintain streetability of the whole combo.
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