As the topic says, i just want to know what the benefits of having a 84 are? I was talking about getting an rx7, i thought it was a 1980 but it ended up being a 84 with only 103,000 km. I got the car for 1000 cdn. Il have some pictures of the car today, but anywho...what are the ups and downs?

 

most updated electronics, but more emissions BS to tear off it if you can. Also, it has the double DIN radio area so you can mount 3 extra gauges easier. Hmm, thats about it I think.

 

Kewl, i thought that the suspension was upgraded in 80' I was reading up on rx7 history on conceptcarz.com and i believe thats what it said. I can remove the emissions if i want, which i will do in a couple days. But i want to have all the right pepcocks so i dont have to use screws to plug the vaccum lines. Plus i want to have some good pictures of what to plug and such, if anyone has any, please post.

 

Any others?

 

84-85's have a nicer interior (at least I think so) with a dash that doesn't crack like S1&S2 cars.

They also have larger axles than all pre '84 cars.

 

thats very true about the interior!!! my personal favorite! the down side would be the water to oil oil cooler. much more innefficient than the 79-83 models. if you can, get the SE radiator and oil cooler and you'll need a couple different coolant hard lines. its a better improvement. you do get a 16.6 gal fuel tank as opposed to a 14.5. you get lighted storage bins, better interior lighting, and the whole interior holds up a lot better.

 

does this count for the 4x110 bolt patterns or just the 4x114.3 for the -se? thanks

 

84 Downs

Ugly Dash,
Ugly tail lights,
Water oil cooler
Fuel pump relay


Ups
Larger axles and spindles
Seats are a bit more fitting.

 

agree s2 dashes rule!
arent these the same for all fb unless you like sa which are cool also
im glad i have an 82
whats different for the relay? for the -se? arent 12a fuel pump always on?

axle bigger on all models?
not sure about the seats b/c i never sat in a later model fb

 

Only the SE has the 4x114

 

I currently only have FB's for parts.

83 - 85 has the pump relay. Not really a bad thing but just something else to fail.

all 84 - 85 have the bigger axles and large bearing spindles.

 

YOU'RE SO RIGHT ON THAT!!!

 

I have late 83 and it doesnt have the relay. I think it is just the 84/85 cars that have the relay. Either way, as long as it works right it doesnt matter lol.

 

how about the lighter rotors on 83-85.

 

are you talking about the vented rear discs?

 

^^ engine rotors are lighter, are they not?

 

correct

http://mazdatrix.com/faq/rotorwgt.htm

 

^^^ for 12A and 13B?

edit: my bad didnt click link

 

Wow came back and there were tonnes of answers. AS for the rats nest does anyone have any good pictures like i asked, or a good thread to link to? Step by step? Thanks btw. Im cutting out the pre cat and cat tomorow and hopefully that does a little bit in the "seat dyno" area. That and the rats nest will get started on. Btw, since there is like 15 ******* hoses leading to the aircleaners itself, which ones do i need, and what would i do if i wanted to throw on a cheap edlebrock chrome aircleaner? Btw, the car seems to be a little sluggish in the power department, feels good in upper rpms but still sluggish off the start.

Another question: The trany fluid seems to be a little low or i just cant read a dipstick properly because it seems like it only beeds on the bottom of the stick and there is a little bit, and i mean barely any on the rest of the stick. Now if i wanted to put some fluid in my trany what would you recomend and where the hell is the fill neck? Just down the dipstick tube?

Another another question: I heard that putting some 2 stroke oil in your gas mixture helps the car decarbon, is it true? and how much to a tank

A.A.A.Q: Whats a good aftermarket fuel pump and regulator for the car since you guys have a problem with the stock relay.

 

there is a rat's nest tutorial on www.mazspeed.com, you don't need the hoses that go to the aircleaner if you remove the rat's nest.

rotaries have no torque. only high end power like above 4,000rpm. you'll find its a little different to drive than a pissed on

not sure about the tranny fluid, should probably check that myself

2 marvel mystery oil, a.k.a. mmo can help break down carbon. many people use it with old engine sthat have sat and carbon locked. others like myself disable the oil metering pump, and premix with either mmo or 2 stroke oil at 1 part per 100 of gas. that way you KNOW your engine is getting the lubrication it needs (think of it as a 2 stroke)

oh, and TRAILER PARK BOYS ALL THE WAY!!. i actually just met "randy, and mr. lahey" as they toured across canada and got autographed pics...oh, and randy signed my abs with "frig off nick". haha im still waiting for my buddy to upload the pics. where in canada are you btw?

 

I live way down yawnder in BC. In the boonies actually, the only rx7 for about 1000 miles. Prety sad eh? Too bad there wasnt more ppl around this area. Its all about big trucks here. But anywho, ya i read up on the rats nest thingy from pratch's website. Looks to be a huge pain in the *** but my car dicks the dogg. I swear its way too slow for what it should be...like 0-60mph in 14 seconds. It should be 10 seconds according to the biography on rx7's i read. So its ok just to cut out the cat's and weld in new pipes? Or clamp in new pipes (unprefered method). How would it should if put in a bottle with the stocker muffler?

thats F'n awsome that you got to meet them, im totally jelous.
Bubbles "whos got your belly"
Ricky "**** boys, get two birds stoned at once"

What the hell is the Oil Metering Pump? Do i have to watch my oil and keep adding some? Little confused. Im make sure to throw in some 2 stroke oil tomorow. I was wondering if my oil was low on my trany because i swear that it takes a little while to pop into gear in first. Like if i go from nuetral to first and have a little bit of pressure on the gas, it will rev to about 2 grand and pop into gear. Not smooth at all. I think i just need some more fluid.

btw, i want my car to atleast beat my stock first gen crx. 0-60 in 8, 1/4 at 17.6

 

actually its "kill two bird stones at once"....its his "rickyism" (saying with words changed around) for "kill two birds with one stone"

the oil metering pump takes oil from the oil pan and injects small amounts into the carb....some people rig it so they can have it suck out of a can with fresh fluid, rather than dirty oil pan flulid. i just plugged it, and go premix with 2 stroke.

if its not quick, maybe your secondaries aren't working (on the carb). if you suspect there is a problem with them, do the mechanical secondaries mod so yoj know they are opening

 

ooh yeah, ditch the catalytic converters. there should be 3. 2 small ones, and a big one. the exhaust will stink though, but that's the fun of owning a rotary. it frees up quite a bit of power, especially if they are plugged. exhaust mods are the best first thing to do to achieve the most increase with the least amount of money....carbs is second. getting a header will help dramatically. just remember when buying exhaust components that rotaries burn hotter exhaust than piston engines, and you need really good stuff, becuase the cheap ones blow out quickly.

but yeah a stock rx7 that's running like it should should be around 9 second mark i would think

here in ontario we have a 20 year old rule that if your car is 20 years old or older then you are exempt from emissions. i myself tore out all my emissions, and i bought a header. i have yet to install it though, im waiting to get some cash to ditch the cats the same time.

 

You are getting some bullshit here. If you live in Canada, it is unlikely you will ever suffer from lack of adequate oil cooling, assuming the car is working properly and you are not racing it on the track. I am running about 155-160 horsepower in mine, using the stock water/oil cooler, and it is quite adequate.

I have removed the "rats nest" of emissions equipment on a few that I have owned, but unless you are installing a"bigger and better" intake system it may not gain you anything.

The model GSL-SE, built in 1984-85, had the larger engine with more torque. Mazda is very conservative, and they decided to beef up the suspension, with larger axles front and rear. Rather than make two different types, they just made the suspension the same on all 1984-85s. The -SE models have heavier brakes.

The 84-85 cars have a completely different interior, with different headliner, door panels, dash and seats, and a much improved heating system. The base models have manual heater controls, the GSL and SE models have electrical heater controls. The instrumentation is much better than the older cars. The only thing I personally don't like is the gold colored bezel around the heater controls, stereo and shifter, with some colors. I think it looks fine on my beige car with the brown interior, but I painted it to match the dash on the red one.

Some will say it is personal preference, but I have owned them all, and I would never consider anything but the 84-85. They are much more refined in many ways. I have two - both GSL models, one with a hopped up rotary and one with a V8. They are the best sports cars you will get for the money.

www.cardomain.com/ride/646433

 

Chedda, start with the basic tuneup items. New spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, set the timing, etc. Then see how it runs. Opening up the exhaust will get you some added ponies for sure. Removing the rat's nest will eliminate potential issues and greatly simplify the engine bay, but will not give much more power other than eliminating the air pump.

Ignition upgrades will yield huge results too. I would look at that before much else, simply because it can be done easily and doesn't cost much. Check out the Transistor Trick thread, you can do that for around 50 bucks with great results. Good luck with it!