ok... so.. im in the mits of my conversion. im working on the harness right now. i was lucky enough to find a compleate TII at the junkyard... needless to say i striped it to hell. but any whoo. i have the entire harness. and i meen entire im not missing one thing. every thing from under the dash, blinker controle, all fuses and relays. ect..

now.. thats a **** load of wires. what can i get away with removing? other than the obvious dash lights, blinkers and head lights.

the reason im using the stock harness is one.. i got it for $35.. and two.. im running out of funds. just got rotors, breaks, ss break lines, an extra LSD, TII tranny, new clutch, ect.... not to mention the motor that is around $850 total. and i have lots more to get. so i dont realy have $600+ on a standalone.

thanks
~steve

 

Ah, since I personally can now answer your question, I will. Okay, basically you only need the TII engine harness, and that part is easy to install, just plug in everything from the computer to the sensors in the engine. Now one of the yellow connectors , the one on the very far right if looking at the ecu has alot of stuff you will not use, and some you will. I have to double check with my book I made which has everything labeled and color coded, but in the time being I can just tell you the basics. I know on that last yellow plug to the ecu , it holds the wiring that will go to the ignition packs, both leading and trailing. It also has the speed sensor, boost sender (for the boost gauge reading) reverse switch, neutral switch, heater blower, a/c switch, and a few others. You dont have to hook any of those up, just the ignition wires. The only other thing which took me the longest is wiring all the hot feeds into the engine harness, which is the clear yellow plug further up from the ecu plugs. This is the one that you have to wire in the hot feeds for the injectors, computer switched, computer memory, and computer opening circuit. If you go the route I did, got 5 bosh relays, rated at 30 amps and wire in the hot feeds to the injectors (2 wires) and computer switched (1 wire). Then wire a positive directly from a hot source that never will turn off, for computer memory. And then for the circuit opening relay, which is on only when cranking, I just did a y-harness from the starter soleniod to a relay which went to the opening circuit wire. And then just wire in your factory tach wire to the new trailing ingnition, and wire the new altenator plug to your old alt. wires and your set! The rest you dont need at all, all the dash wiring and crap from a TII, is not needed. your old engine harness for the 12a is not needed except keep the alt. wires and temp sensor, and water temp sensor wires. The rest I untaped and stripped away. Hope that gets you started. Give me a day and I can even tell you all the color codes as to which wire does what. Good-luck.

 

ok so.. basicly i just use the main harness that controles the injectors(obvious) and then on the HUGE harness (one that runs under the dash just hook up the ignition packs?. i figured mnost of the wiring that went under the dash was for light, dash elumiation ect.. as well as the relays that are behind the radiatior. so that of course would not be used.

the hot feeds is what im a bit confused on. i think if i read what you wrote many many times i can figure it out lol. damn this elecctrical stuff! but it will be well worth it.

 

good god!! that whole process sounds like pure hell!!!!!!!!! that stock efi crap sucks!! its ugly and too cluttered!!
im glad there is blowthrough!!! there is a god, his name is blowthrough!!!!!!!!!!

i bought the terminated harness for my haltec, it was an x-tra $150.00 and worth every penny!! it took me 10 minutes to hook up my efi!! but the ems systems are $$$$$$$

 

yeah, the terminated harness rocks. Plug plug plug LOL Then with the Haltech you only have like ground, 12v constant, 12v ign, and a fuel pump wire...

 

Yea I went through that HELL and think I'm almost finished. Will be installing in the next month or two. Just got my engine back from Rotary Resurrection today. So if you go this route, I've done most the wiring work for you--at least figuring out what goes where.

The wiring diagrams I posted have the full conversion from an 84 SE to 88 TII+tranny. In addition to the engine harness you will need parts of the front harness as well. These wires all go thru the FEM-02 connector and end up going thru the driver side harness.

Look for my post in this thread (warning the images came out BIG):

FB to TII Wiring Thread

A huge word of advice. Check the engine harness connections before you install it on the engine. That's what I'm doing and I found several bad wires (intermittent/high resistance), one shorted wire, and two bad grounds. Hate to think what would have happened if I used it--what a bitch that would be to diagnose. Make sure you check ALL terminations to make sure they are working--both ground and power side.

I'm also replacing the injector wires and connectors just to be safe--even though they are all good--but definitely crispy and brittle.

Feel free to PM me if you have questions.

Scott

p.s. I wish I had the money to go stand alone--them other guys are right about it being easier and more flexible--but I couldn't afford the +$1000 price tag. The stock system will meet my needs and be emissions legal which is required where I live.

 

wow thanks for the responces.i know i have a lot of work ahead of me.

also. i dont have to use the FC fuse box do i? the one under the dash?

 

No, you shouldn't have to.

I'd use the main box under the hood, and replace those annoying fusible links though.

 

ok cool, i have the fuse box from under the hood but i did not take the one under the dash.

 

Don't worry about the fuse box under the dash. You only need to add one 7.5a fuse for the ECU since it always needs battery power.

I plan on replacing the fusable links with the 2nd gen fuse block (under the hood).

Note the two power leads going to the main relay need to be swapped on the fusing side. For the TII the injector leads need to be on the 40 A circuit and the rest on the 30 A circuit. The FB links are opposite--0.3 sq on the injectors and 0.5 for the rest.