raysfuncar

New to the rotary world with my recent purchase of a 85 SE. After driving the car to my place and reading many many many posts, I proceded to take apart the whole intake system and give it a much needed cleaning. New header, gaskets, clean injectors, hoses, complete tune up, all new brakes, and the list just keeps growing. Its back together, runs and the actuators are pretty easy to push in and out but arent working at all from the looks of it. Ive taken a "T" connection to one end like I saw in the FSM diagram and air doesnt hold in the line, it just shoots out of the holes around the screw at the base of the actuators. The return comes from pipe we just rigged to a hose/bung to the mid pipe and shot it back to the front. Pretty ghetto setup but will do it right eventually.

1) Does this mean the seals inside the actuators (I'd think there is one inside) are gone or can i put some kinda lube inside to maybe make it work again?

Ive hit all the pick and pulls around this area and no luck on any 1st gens, only a few 2nd that I didnt take a good look at and 1 3rd that was wrecked and pretty much stripped. Any feedback on these things would be greatly appreciated and if theyre really bad, does anyone have any they would like to part with?

Also the Pulsation Dampener leaks and the guy before me tried to fix it with some JB but I guess the pressure in the fuel rail pushed its way right out. After finding out what purpose the thing serves I read that one could simply just get a banjo bolt and get rid of the dampener.

2) Doing the banjo bolt swap a good idea or no?

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/pd.html

In summary, pulsations are exaggerated by:

1. Multi-point fuel injection, firing all fuel injectors are the same time
2. Long fuel rail lengths
3. Small diameter fuel rails

1) I only have 2
2) Its pretty short from the looks of it
3) The bolt on the PD is 12 MM

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you should just replace the PD.

um the actuators work on like 1-2psi, if you're putting like 100psi into them, they might get damaged.

can you move them by hand?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Banjo bolt works fine. Earl's part# 997591. 12X1.25 mm banjo bolt.

2nd gen actuators work on the SE's. You may have damaged the the fiber gasket that goes between the actuator and intake mani. I make my own instead of buying them.

Welcome to the forum.
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redfb

off topic but where in ga do you live?

raysfuncar

Update

Purchased the banjo bolt and it seems to do the trick.

The original actuators were messed up from the start. They were easy to push in and out after cleaning just didnt test them before I put it all back together. Pulled a pair off of a second gen and made some gaskets because I didn't feel like ordering another set. The new ones go in and out and the car drives pretty good.

Working out the idle kinks now and testing all the little doodads to make sure its all doing what its supposed to. Waiting on wheel seals to come in because the drivers side was worn out after I pulled it apart investigating about why the rotor was grinding on the caliper bracket. Appears the person that removed the plate, and dust guard before bent it out from the center and gave the shaft enough play to slide out far enough to grind the rotor. Should be driving the car after that unless something else goes wrong which I'm sure will be the case.

I live in the Columbus area and jump over to Phenix City AL. where I currently have the car parked.

And its good to be here, crazy amount of info to be read on this site which I really am grateful for.

PS Pics soon! (granted its pretty ugly but a work in progress)