Question for the guys running complete FC subframe front suspension.
#1
Thread Starter
Driven a turbo FB lately?
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From: Fort Branch, Indiana
Question for the guys running complete FC subframe front suspension.
My springs are REAL close and rub a little sometimes. What springs are you guys running? I need something that fits a FC strut assembly but has an overall smaller diameter. The FC subframe is from a 87 GXL
#2
2 1/2" coils. Problem solved.
It's not terribly difficult to hacksaw the spring seat off, file/grind (carefully - don't heat it too much) it flush enough to slip a coilover sleeve over, then get some Allstar coilover sleeves/threaded seats. Two springs and the hardware should run under $200.
You'll probably want to go that route instead of trying to fit the spring atop the stock FC seat. I've done that but there's not much room for spring.
It's not terribly difficult to hacksaw the spring seat off, file/grind (carefully - don't heat it too much) it flush enough to slip a coilover sleeve over, then get some Allstar coilover sleeves/threaded seats. Two springs and the hardware should run under $200.
You'll probably want to go that route instead of trying to fit the spring atop the stock FC seat. I've done that but there's not much room for spring.
#5
^That's what I would suggest too. Someday when the FB springs/shocks I'm running on mine wear out I'll go the coil over route. Definitely the easiest way to go if you don't mind spending a few hundred bucks
Peejay - How much did you move the mounting ears up, 1 inch or so? Is that about as far as you can go without the bottom of the strut housing hitting the top of the ball joint? I had considered going that route before I said screw it and moved the strut towers up lol.
Peejay - How much did you move the mounting ears up, 1 inch or so? Is that about as far as you can go without the bottom of the strut housing hitting the top of the ball joint? I had considered going that route before I said screw it and moved the strut towers up lol.
Last edited by 82transam; 07-01-13 at 08:15 AM.
#6
#7
Why? Because it was laying around, and it allowed me roughly 8" of travel in the front. It works out perfect because the ball joint goes into motion lock at full droop. Means I have to run about .5-1 degree of positive camber as well, although the camber doesn't seem to hurt grip any. I had to do some hefty grinding on the top of the ball joint and the lip on the bottom of the strut, as well as the bolt that holds the insert in the strut housing, but it fits. Barely.
One of the guys I compete with calls it my prerunner suspension. I call it awesome because softer springs + more travel is way more better than less travel + stiffer springs to compensate. I'm down to 175lb-in in the front (from 250) although might bump it up to 200lb, but finding places to cut weight off the front would have the same effect but with more benefits.
I fully recognize that my priorities are a bit different than other peoples' but the principles are the same. If your strut housings are roughly 2" OD then you can use the commonly available and cheap Allstar sleeves/perches. I think the sleeves and perches ran me $70 with tax (no shipping, bought at the actual Summit store in Akron) and the springs were ??? but can be had for $40-50 a pop for QA1.
But color me jelly of Alex's springs. Those look like they have sick travel for the length. I really need to ditch the 14s for some 16s because I am technically going into coil bind at max stuff, but Alex's springs up there look like they have waaaay more travel for a given length.
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#9
Those are GC (Impreza) rear struts with Koni Yellow inserts for the rear of a GD WRX.
Why? Because it was laying around, and it allowed me roughly 8" of travel in the front. It works out perfect because the ball joint goes into motion lock at full droop. Means I have to run about .5-1 degree of positive camber as well, although the camber doesn't seem to hurt grip any. I had to do some hefty grinding on the top of the ball joint and the lip on the bottom of the strut, as well as the bolt that holds the insert in the strut housing, but it fits. Barely.
One of the guys I compete with calls it my prerunner suspension. I call it awesome because softer springs + more travel is way more better than less travel + stiffer springs to compensate. I'm down to 175lb-in in the front (from 250) although might bump it up to 200lb, but finding places to cut weight off the front would have the same effect but with more benefits.
I fully recognize that my priorities are a bit different than other peoples' but the principles are the same. If your strut housings are roughly 2" OD then you can use the commonly available and cheap Allstar sleeves/perches. I think the sleeves and perches ran me $70 with tax (no shipping, bought at the actual Summit store in Akron) and the springs were ??? but can be had for $40-50 a pop for QA1.
But color me jelly of Alex's springs. Those look like they have sick travel for the length. I really need to ditch the 14s for some 16s because I am technically going into coil bind at max stuff, but Alex's springs up there look like they have waaaay more travel for a given length.
Why? Because it was laying around, and it allowed me roughly 8" of travel in the front. It works out perfect because the ball joint goes into motion lock at full droop. Means I have to run about .5-1 degree of positive camber as well, although the camber doesn't seem to hurt grip any. I had to do some hefty grinding on the top of the ball joint and the lip on the bottom of the strut, as well as the bolt that holds the insert in the strut housing, but it fits. Barely.
One of the guys I compete with calls it my prerunner suspension. I call it awesome because softer springs + more travel is way more better than less travel + stiffer springs to compensate. I'm down to 175lb-in in the front (from 250) although might bump it up to 200lb, but finding places to cut weight off the front would have the same effect but with more benefits.
I fully recognize that my priorities are a bit different than other peoples' but the principles are the same. If your strut housings are roughly 2" OD then you can use the commonly available and cheap Allstar sleeves/perches. I think the sleeves and perches ran me $70 with tax (no shipping, bought at the actual Summit store in Akron) and the springs were ??? but can be had for $40-50 a pop for QA1.
But color me jelly of Alex's springs. Those look like they have sick travel for the length. I really need to ditch the 14s for some 16s because I am technically going into coil bind at max stuff, but Alex's springs up there look like they have waaaay more travel for a given length.
Nice cobbled together setup you've got, must be pretty solid if you haven't broken it yet
#12
Thread Starter
Driven a turbo FB lately?
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,444
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From: Fort Branch, Indiana
Thanks guys for the pictures and the ideas! I'm just trying to get it done then I'll start tweaking it...Keep the ideas coming...
I'm on the back half of the car now. I got some rust issues I want to take care of in the rockers and the quarters. Then paint the entire car. SUCKS that the weather is perfect to paint, I got 4 days off starting after today and I don't have the change for the paint! Well actually the clear.. Dammit LOL
I'm on the back half of the car now. I got some rust issues I want to take care of in the rockers and the quarters. Then paint the entire car. SUCKS that the weather is perfect to paint, I got 4 days off starting after today and I don't have the change for the paint! Well actually the clear.. Dammit LOL
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