79blue_killer

Hi there, well i can't decide which port i'm going for.. i would like to know the gains, down sides, mods, etc. I have in mind street/mild port or extended port. Bridgeport would be nice but too much gas and mods too.

If i keep my stock nikki carb with a rebuild on it and intake (hi flow filter without the blue housing, and without the emission hoses).. can i run extended port or only street/mild port?

My other mods i have in mind are exhaust, NGK plugs and wires, with a mazdatrix foam filter. I don't want to sound like a cheap a** but i'm in a tight budget now so i'm looking not to do mickey mouse but to go good quality/gains for the best value.

Thx in advance!!

Kentetsu

For any kind of port job, you should consider a better carb. I have had great success with the Sterling carb, which is also the best choice economically speaking.

www.sterlingmetalworks.com

Good luck with your project.


.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Exhaust first. Always exhaust first. I cannot stress how dissappointed you will be if you do not do this FIRST. Porting any engine and leaving the stock exhaust on is like trying to blow air through a straw stuck in wet cement. You will see little to no gains with a stock exhaust. There are a few header options you'll find after looking around a bit. Racing Beat has good bolt on kits that are good for the street but are heavy and kind of expensive. On the plus side they are quiet when you need it to be but howl at WOT, and there's no guesswork or fabrication to do. Just bolt it on and go. On the other hand a properly built custom exhaust will net you more power. It will just be a little louder. The RB systems are also capable of withstanding a direct hit from a nuclear missile.

I absolutely second the Sterling Carb. Great choice on a stock engine. I will know for sure how it feels on a ported engine in the spring/summer. It's fully tuneable so for short trips and just buzzing around town you can have it set for WOT fun with conservative consumption at cruise. For racing you set it up to be a pig, which means you get to go faster. And you can tune it super lean for long road trips where miles per gallon really matters.

Porting you have a ton of options. Your best bet for a street car is to go with a medium streetport on the primaries and a wild streetport on the secondaries. This along with a Sterlings mechanical secondaries will allow you to drive around town with good low end power for stop and go as well as decent fuel mileage, but when you crack open the secondaries the engine will really pull. This is the route I plan to go. I was considering a bridgeport too, but also began thinking about how much I really wanted to spend and also what I was actually going to use the car for. I do not drag race, so I do not NEED a ton of top end power. I do autocross though, so I will need low and midrange power.

This thinking left me with two choices. Rebuild the engine without porting and be left with a little restored power and a pretty fun little car. Or I can have my builder do a medium/wild streetport and be laughing my *** off every time I stab the go pedal while still having the power where I will actually need it. Do not forget your fuel system upgrades. With any carb/porting you will have to upgrade the pump and add a regulator. A better filter might also be a good plan, but regular checks of the stockers will be sufficient if you choose not to.

Good luck.

79blue_killer

Thx for the info orion is a good way to go actually, something like that is in my mind..since i'm not gonna take it to the track i got the bridgy kinda off my mind and go for extended port or mild port. I searched for that carb but i cant find it.. i would like to get it tho seems like an easy carb to work with. any link again??

Is pacesetter header any good?? they sell those around 160 new..then i could go 2.5" single exhaust from headers to back.. and the longest glasspack i can find with a chambered muffler to keep the sound low.

As intake well..if going stock for now i will get the foam from mazdatrix.. but i have a question about the hoses. There's 7 connection into the blue housing. 2 from the exhaust ( one small and the big hose that goes into the snorkel ) 1 from the air pump ( which i don't unplug it cuz seems important ) and the other 3 go into between the carb and some sensors. The only one that changed my car's idle was the thinner pipe with a small black house. Explain me which one is needed and what they're for.

Thx in advance!!

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

The link Kentetsu posted is working fine. Just in case, here it is again

www.sterlingmetalworks.com

Also check out the forum there. A good bunch of guys there and we will help you after your purchase as much as we can.

www.sterlingmetalworks.com/bymc

Kentetsu

Here you go: http://www.sterlingmetalworks.com/th...ling_nikki.htm

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

chambered mufflers and rotaries don't always play well together. on a street car it should be ok, but there is enough energy in the exhaust to break those kinds of mufflers. make it easy to change

RB header is better than the pacesetter, try looking for a used RB, mine is about 20 years old and its fine

Kentetsu

Yes, I'd take a rusty RB header over a pacesetter any day...

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Me too. At least RB tried to make something performance oriented. The Pacesetter looks like it was designed in a day.

79blue_killer

Thx for the replies guys!! I will send him a email asking for price on those nice nikkis. Chambered mufflers are then out of my to-do-list.. but if i live the system straight is gonna be too loud. I was thinking maybe RB headers.. 2.5" single exhaust with a long resonator or 2 and then an oval muffler..but again it might be too loud.

Can you guys let me know about those hose questions i asked?? If so i can be able to make a custom housing for an aftermarket filter.. better flow.. hate that blue restrictive blue housing.

Thx again!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the old school answer is you buy 2 racing beat presilencers, and you can put em side by side or end to end, but they are enough to let you use any normal muffler on the rear and have it be quiet.

the newer answer, flowmasters are louder on a rotary than straight pipes.

79blue_killer

Yeah i noticed many ppl use those pre silencer from RB. What about using RB headers, removing oem cats and leaving the stock exhaust in... will improve flow but won't be loud. Some guy i met had RB headers, decat, 2.5 single pipe to a borla silencer and at the end a protege MSP oem muffler and sounded sick dude!! you can find it him in youtube

Kentetsu

A number of people have used Borla mufflers with great success. I've considered this myself...

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

I have several 13-B headers to fit your FB plus 13-B header modified to fit a 12-A. Im in LA as in los angeles, not lousiana or lower alabama

79blue_killer

Borla straight through? a resonator or muffler? seems equal but it changes a lot if placed on middle or back of the car

79blue_killer

Cool, PM you

stilettoman

iTrader: (1)

I agree with the comments on using a RB header and don't get carried away with porting. I have built several 12a and 13b engines for street us and I always do the same thing - mild porting of the exhaust and primaries, and then the secondaries with a RB street port template. I am too cheap to buy a Sterling - I adapted an RX-4 carb to my current 12a motor in my FB, and I got a dyno run at 130hp to the wheels. It is not as fast as some of these cars, but fun to drive and fast enough for me. Until the secondaries kick in it drives just like a stock one.

The peak horsepower comes in at 7,000 rpm, about 1,000rpm higher than stock. I also have an aluminum RB flywheel, which I highly recommend for in-town driving - really makes a noticeable difference in the first two gears, and does not seem to hurt the driveability.

Kentetsu

Man, that sounds like a very sweet setup!

79blue_killer

yup sounds cheap and good! have any pics?