Question about DLIDFIS
#1
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Lewiston, Maine / Orlando, Florida
Question about DLIDFIS
Hey guys...
How difficult is it to switch over to this ignition method? Has anyone seen noticeable results? Do you have to adjust the timing after you perform this modification?
I have a 83 GSL, so do I have an "electronic" dizzy?
Thanks all....
How difficult is it to switch over to this ignition method? Has anyone seen noticeable results? Do you have to adjust the timing after you perform this modification?
I have a 83 GSL, so do I have an "electronic" dizzy?
Thanks all....
#2
this should cover it... (if you didnt read it already)
http://www.geocities.com/cd23c/dlidfis.html
I would also like to take this oppertunity to thank Jeff20B for the nice write-up
http://www.geocities.com/cd23c/dlidfis.html
I would also like to take this oppertunity to thank Jeff20B for the nice write-up
#4
It's not too hard to setup, just takes some time to do right. I've setup the single ignitor dual leading coil (called series, or poormans DFIS by Jeff20B) and have noticed a little bit of difference. I'm going to goto DLIDFIS now that I have a 3rd ignitor. The only downside to the way it's setup now is that the car doesn't rev quite as well above ~5500RPM. I've been told that going straight dual leading ignitor will cure that and let the thing rev like a beast all the way up until I take my foot of the gas or the motor dies So, we'll see!
--matt
--matt
#5
Hey thanks Montrealer!
The single ignitor on two coils is much easier to hook up because it only requires one more coil and a jumper wire or two. You can use the stock wiring harness.
Dual Leading ignitors requires a new wiring harness and some way to mount the other Leading ignitor securely etc. It's a bit more involved, but very do able. Infact, just today I think I figured out a good place to mount an ignitor plate in my Cosmo. Now I just need to get a 3rd ignitor (it's currently running the poorman's ignition but a friend is borrowing the carb).
The single ignitor on two coils is much easier to hook up because it only requires one more coil and a jumper wire or two. You can use the stock wiring harness.
Dual Leading ignitors requires a new wiring harness and some way to mount the other Leading ignitor securely etc. It's a bit more involved, but very do able. Infact, just today I think I figured out a good place to mount an ignitor plate in my Cosmo. Now I just need to get a 3rd ignitor (it's currently running the poorman's ignition but a friend is borrowing the carb).
#6
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,890
Likes: 14
From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
If you have good headers, a good carb, and are pleased with your performance now, than DO THIS MOD!!!
I have an 85GS with RB headers, a beatifully tuned Yaw, and when I did Jeffs setup, I went from waiting for 8K shifts to worrying that I would blow by 8400!
When I first blew off down my "test strip" patch of road I use, I accidently buried my needle. I've tested so often there, that I usually reach a certain driveway before the 2-3 shift. I had gotten to redline wayyy before that!
I have an 85GS with RB headers, a beatifully tuned Yaw, and when I did Jeffs setup, I went from waiting for 8K shifts to worrying that I would blow by 8400!
When I first blew off down my "test strip" patch of road I use, I accidently buried my needle. I've tested so often there, that I usually reach a certain driveway before the 2-3 shift. I had gotten to redline wayyy before that!
#7
Originally posted by Sterling
If you have good headers, a good carb, and are pleased with your performance now, than DO THIS MOD!!!
I have an 85GS with RB headers, a beatifully tuned Yaw, and when I did Jeffs setup, I went from waiting for 8K shifts to worrying that I would blow by 8400!
When I first blew off down my "test strip" patch of road I use, I accidently buried my needle. I've tested so often there, that I usually reach a certain driveway before the 2-3 shift. I had gotten to redline wayyy before that!
If you have good headers, a good carb, and are pleased with your performance now, than DO THIS MOD!!!
I have an 85GS with RB headers, a beatifully tuned Yaw, and when I did Jeffs setup, I went from waiting for 8K shifts to worrying that I would blow by 8400!
When I first blew off down my "test strip" patch of road I use, I accidently buried my needle. I've tested so often there, that I usually reach a certain driveway before the 2-3 shift. I had gotten to redline wayyy before that!
Trending Topics
#10
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Lewiston, Maine / Orlando, Florida
Sterling... You shifted at 8400???? Isn't that pushing the engine too much? How much can a 12A take of that??
If I got right down to it, how long would it take me to convert to the DLIDFIS? I am very mechanically inclined, so comprehension is not an obstacle!
Also... what the heck is a "Yaw" Is that the carb linkage? And, if so... how the heck is it tuned?
Thanks guys!
If I got right down to it, how long would it take me to convert to the DLIDFIS? I am very mechanically inclined, so comprehension is not an obstacle!
Also... what the heck is a "Yaw" Is that the carb linkage? And, if so... how the heck is it tuned?
Thanks guys!
#12
Originally posted by jeremyriv
If I got right down to it, how long would it take me to convert to the DLIDFIS? I am very mechanically inclined, so comprehension is not an obstacle!
If I got right down to it, how long would it take me to convert to the DLIDFIS? I am very mechanically inclined, so comprehension is not an obstacle!
It took me about 1 1/2 hours to make a braket to accomodate the ignitors, and make an "adaptor" to bolt an extra stock coil braket on the strut tower.
The wirering is fairy easy if you have an electrical welder. And even if you don't just connectors and criping them together should be sufficient. all the welding and finding the apropriate connectors to make a quick connect disconnect setup took me a other 2-3 hours but this includes double and triple checking everything that I do, I the kind of do it right the 1st time type.
I'm assuming it will take me an extra 30 min to install everyting and then advance the timing (I need to get a timing light to get it right the first time )
This does not take into accout all the time that I have spent removing relevant connectors and wires from a parts car, reading and re-reading Jeff20B's write-up on the procedure about 3 or 4 times and taking nice hard looks at the engine bay and the wirering diagram to figure out the best way to make the setup.
#13
Do you mean soldering? I'd hate to try to weld terminals on steel cable-like wires in order to hook them up to the coils and ignitors hehe.
Speaking of getting it right the first time, I've finished two REPUs and they both worked fine with all those coil connections I made. I love having the confidence to set the tool down, push on the last connector, get in, crank it and have it start up and run! It does end up taking a fair amount of time to get to that point though, as Montrealer has found out.
That part in my article I mentioned about setting the timing as per Yaw's recomendations has been proven bad for the Trailing plugs. I trust REVHED's recomendations for 20*BTDC. I'll be updating my article some time soon and include the 20* info.
Speaking of taking long hard looks at an engine bay, I've been doing that today a bit. I'm trying to figure how to mount an ignitor plate in my Cosmo. I thought I had a good spot where the voltage reg used to be, but it looks like it could get wet in a bad storm. I'll have to drench the car to find out for sure, but it's a bit difficult right now because its in the garage without a carb at the moment.
I shifted my friend's 13B at 8100RPM (or possibly higher while I glanced at the tach as it was still rising) after installing DLIDFIS. He's borrowing my Cosmo carb. He used to have a dellorto and it couldn't run up to 7000RPM very well with the stock firing El dizzy (the Cosmo carb was even worse peaking at 6500 back then). It will be interesting to see how it runs if and when he gets the dellorto back on it. Oh yeah, the 13B is a '77 model with stock ports.
Speaking of getting it right the first time, I've finished two REPUs and they both worked fine with all those coil connections I made. I love having the confidence to set the tool down, push on the last connector, get in, crank it and have it start up and run! It does end up taking a fair amount of time to get to that point though, as Montrealer has found out.
That part in my article I mentioned about setting the timing as per Yaw's recomendations has been proven bad for the Trailing plugs. I trust REVHED's recomendations for 20*BTDC. I'll be updating my article some time soon and include the 20* info.
Speaking of taking long hard looks at an engine bay, I've been doing that today a bit. I'm trying to figure how to mount an ignitor plate in my Cosmo. I thought I had a good spot where the voltage reg used to be, but it looks like it could get wet in a bad storm. I'll have to drench the car to find out for sure, but it's a bit difficult right now because its in the garage without a carb at the moment.
I shifted my friend's 13B at 8100RPM (or possibly higher while I glanced at the tach as it was still rising) after installing DLIDFIS. He's borrowing my Cosmo carb. He used to have a dellorto and it couldn't run up to 7000RPM very well with the stock firing El dizzy (the Cosmo carb was even worse peaking at 6500 back then). It will be interesting to see how it runs if and when he gets the dellorto back on it. Oh yeah, the 13B is a '77 model with stock ports.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Nosferatu
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
7
09-05-15 03:13 PM