treceb

Was playing wit my SE yesterday and removed the coil wires to remove the battery. And sort of forgot which one is leading and which is trailing. My guess is the front most one is leading. Is this correct. Does it make a difference. I looked at the haynes manual, and as usual, it didnt help.
thanks.

P.O.S. Racing

Don’t know if it makes a difference (someone tell us), but my 84 –SE the trailing coil has 2 yellow/green wires on the (-) side, the lead has a YL, which if I remember correctly was a yellow with a line. The wiring will tell you which coil is which, you can physically mount them in 2 different configurations trail coil at the front or trail coil at the back. Not sure how important it is, but Mazda wired different so I’ve used that, as the indicator of which coil is which.

treceb

thanks POS, i remember those negative wires, i removed them to do the atf treatment.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I have a question. Why would you remove the negative wires when doing an ATF treatment? Just to prevent the engine from starting? I think bobrx7 shouldn't have mentioned to squirt and bump, if you know what I'm saying.

It's best to turn the engine over by hand during an ATF treatment.

Mazda says the front most coil is Trailing.

Felix Wankel

I agree. The engine turns over way too far just bumping the starter, there's no telling which rotor face you're putting the ATF in that way.

(Yes, front coil is trailing )

treceb

ok, so what is the best way to do this. The only reason i did it the way bobrx7 explained it was because it was the only place where i found the procedure to be simple and straight to the point. Instead of having to read through differents posts to see what others had done.
And i did see what you mean with the bump squirt. It almost seemed like I poured most of the atf in the same chamber.

So now, my question is, what is the best way of doing this?

If anyone would be kind enought to explain it would be greatly appreciated.
thanks.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I agree treceb. That's why I have not submitted my article to Mike yet. I didn't want to pass on botched info. So I did the next best thing and posted the article in numerous places.

Hmm, I would recommend putting a socket on either the alt pulley nut or the main drive pulley 19mm bolt. Its easier to crank the 19mm bolt if you have an electric fan.

Hmm, well, the front rotor face is flat against the plugs when the 0* timing mark on the pulley is at the pin on the front cover, and the rear rotor face is flat 180* after the 0* mark. You will need to make 3 complete 360* revolutions of the main drive pulley while injecting/squirting ATF/MMO in the carb primary barrels. I suppose you could take out some spark plugs and squirt the ATF/MMO that way, but I'm not sure which to remove. The Trailing holes are smaller and therefore harder to use.

Anybody else?

Oh yeah, there's that pushing the car backwards in 5th every few hours thing. Simply crank the engine backwards by hand every few hours. I'm not sure how many revolutions you need to crank it though (possibly 3?).