my oil feed lines to the nikki are brokin in the center my question is can i replace it with larger size diameter of tube with out it offecting the oil feed?
or can i buy them from some where the tube i can get is about twice the size of the origanil pin size holes?
hopefully u all know what im talkin about they the tubes that come from under the air shutter soliniod and runs over the coolent inlet and down 3/4 of the engine

 

If they are not broken at a curve, just use a tight fitting rubber line as a splice. Twist a fine wire at each end of the rubber to keep the splice in place.

 

sweet
thanks dude your a real help

 

Yea I used tie wraps to secure small rubber hose splices over mine when they broke. The wire should work good too.

 

another question when i got rid off all the emission wires from my harness i noticed that only 3 warninglights came up when usally all of them did at acc
could having my altanator not hooked up do this??
im currently doin big erns (gmc)alt mod so untill then any one have any ideas my current alt was **** up then i hooked the bat cable to it seemed like it was earthed and sparked so maybe it blew a wire iv checked all fuses so im a bit puzzled
any help on this would be apresiated

 

and another question can we use any old timing light from a auto store or is it a specific one???

 

Any old basic inductive timing light is fine. No special one required.

 

What material should the clear OMP lines be made of? Where do you get it? What size are the lines from the OMP to the carb? What size should I use for the feed line from the 2 stroke oil tank to the inlet on the OMP?
Dennis L. Cote, Delhi, CA

 

my carb is wistling like a jug on the stove but no that extreame any one have any ideas?? could i have not put my butterflys in exsactly and its just air passin through ive been trying to tune the carb at idel but cant get past 1500rpm i tryed a few poibilitys lossened the accel cable did mixture to 3 1/2 turns but i have to do more cause it nearly stalls turn idle screw heaps no change cant be vaccum cause i got no emmisions ill take a photo to give an idea whats takin off
i tightined the throttle return spring to maz so it positivley got no slack its running a bit all over the place but i think thats due to timing or my trailing cause i unpluged the coil while it was running and no change
and can u tell me what this bolt screw is its on the manifold leaks a bit of oil its a bit lose i tightend it a bit to stop the leak but not sure what would happen if i screwed all the way another thing how can i fix this little bolt to my 2gen coil so itl still work dont ask how it got broke hehe

sorry for bein so long but any help would be awsome

chris

 

is there any fuses besides the 3 fusiable fuses and the fuse box under the dash im tringing to figure why i only have 2 warning lights this happened after getting rid of unnessecory emmission wires and mucking around with my old alt which i think i didnt put back together properly causaing the bat post to earth

 

bump
i tryed to do my timing today i cant seem to get leading to line up with the pin i have it a 1/4 inch from it at 4k but thats fully retarded to get there started to make a metal contact noise so i havent tryed any more do i have someting i havnt got running right like ignigtors i really wouldnt trust my tac i had trailing vaccum pluged trailing ends up being leading no mater what i do

 

First, which warning lights are working and which ones are not working that were before. That may get you a response to help trouble shoot.

Second. Timing is set to the marks at idle, 750-800 rpm. After about 1k rpm the vacuum and centripetal advance kicks in and you cannot time to the marks unless you have an adjustable timing light.

 

ok the ones that work are seat belt and hadn brake one
they all would light up at acc
now only those two do the others that arnt showing are addcoolent,stoplamp,oillevel,bat,exsaughst

and for timing from what i think i remeber from the archives you do the timing at 4k cause its full mechcanical advance and yes i do have an adjustable timing light
well ill flow what u said but i cant get it under1.2k idel maybe just my tahc its been said that they are not accurate 80% of the time

 

Your ear should tell you if the idle is high or not. If you can't get the idle down, it's time to find out why.

As for the warning lights, start with the fuses.

 

ok well ill tackle that idle tomorro
but as for fuses i have checked every one on the fuse block under the dash all are fine i have a test to check them so im positive and the 3 fusible links are fine to i replaced them with the modern ones are there any others that are hidden in the dash

 

All i can think of is that while removing your emissions u pulled a few sensors loose. Check all your connections. (passenger side of carb, under oil filter) all of those colourful plugs that are hidden everywhere around your engine. basically just check every wire harness for good connectivity.

Thats all i can think of really. Really having them plugged in shouldnt effect it though.... hmm cause ud think that would make the lights stay on not go out....

sorry bud... give it a shot though

 

yeah this kinda sucks i did what u recomended nudda hmm
i have problem with my fuel gauge ounce its under half it drops to nothing i checked the plug and its clean as would it be fuel gauge or the sensor what can i do to test i cant take the senser out cause all the screws are fuct

another my oil pressure gauge works and sumtimes it dosnt i cleaned the connector same deal