pulsation damper help please
#1
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From: westminster, ca
pulsation damper help please
so i think my pulsation damper is out cuz its sprinkling major gas out of that area....i want to replace it with the banjo bolt but i want some suggestions....has anyone done this with pics or anything? is it really that simple that i can remove the pulsation damper and simply screw in the banjo bolts with crush washers and what not? i know it wears out injectors but is it really that bad? any feed back is appreciated...im just trying to do this as a temporary solution until i get a t2 swap...so i dont want to spend 140 on a stupid piece of metal...thanks you
#5
I did this to my SE and havent had any problems after ~3000 miles on rebuilt injectors.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...pulsation.html
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...pulsation.html
#6
No distributor? No thanks
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From: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
Between all the rubber lines and the second PD that's on your fuel pump, the fuel rail PD isn't needed. No problems tearing it out. If you go to the FC section, don't listen to their scare tactics!
#7
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
high power and big injectors + no damper = boom!
the water hammer effect is really scary if you've ever seen it in reality, car is untunable when the fuel pressure is going up and down 50psi!
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#8
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From: westminster, ca
j9fd3s ur gonna have to explain a little more...so its just more handy to have if u have a lot of power and it wont matter if ur car is stock?
can i just screw the banjo bolt in or would i have to align the hole?
can i just screw the banjo bolt in or would i have to align the hole?
#9
He is saying that the FC cars do not have the 2nd DP at the pump like the GSL-SE does. So, when the FC guys replace the PD with a banjo bolt, they can put strong pressure fluctuations in the fuel system.
However, you have a 2nd PD (at the fuel pump outlet), so you still have protection to smooth out the pressure. You will be fine using the banjo bolt.
For the banjo bolt, you just remove the PD and screw in the banjo bolt.
Yep. The water hammer can be a powerful force. For steam lines (like in a nuclear power plant), we always have to watch out for condensation induced water hammers (much more powerful than even normal water hammers). They are powerful enough to rip a large pipe wide open or tear a long section of pipe from its supporting hangers.
However, you have a 2nd PD (at the fuel pump outlet), so you still have protection to smooth out the pressure. You will be fine using the banjo bolt.
For the banjo bolt, you just remove the PD and screw in the banjo bolt.
Yep. The water hammer can be a powerful force. For steam lines (like in a nuclear power plant), we always have to watch out for condensation induced water hammers (much more powerful than even normal water hammers). They are powerful enough to rip a large pipe wide open or tear a long section of pipe from its supporting hangers.
#10
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From: westminster, ca
ok guys one more question....is this the correct banjo bolt? if not then can someone give me the sizes....is it the right thread and length?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/12mm-...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/12mm-...Q5fAccessories
#12
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From: westminster, ca
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banjo...Q5fAccessories
or how about this one... which one will be better...or does it not matter?
theres also a guy selling one that is specific for 13b's but its a stupid banjo bolt that costs 25 dollars -_- ripoff artist
or how about this one... which one will be better...or does it not matter?
theres also a guy selling one that is specific for 13b's but its a stupid banjo bolt that costs 25 dollars -_- ripoff artist
#16
My idle improved but thats because I replaced the vac lines and had my injectors rebuilt while I had everything off.
Also didnt know about the other PD on the fuel pump end of the SE's. Do those ones fail like the ones in the engine compartment? Have to check that out next time Im back there...
Also didnt know about the other PD on the fuel pump end of the SE's. Do those ones fail like the ones in the engine compartment? Have to check that out next time Im back there...
#17
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
My idle improved but thats because I replaced the vac lines and had my injectors rebuilt while I had everything off.
Also didnt know about the other PD on the fuel pump end of the SE's. Do those ones fail like the ones in the engine compartment? Have to check that out next time Im back there...
Also didnt know about the other PD on the fuel pump end of the SE's. Do those ones fail like the ones in the engine compartment? Have to check that out next time Im back there...
#20
i've seen them with the screws loose in the cap..not good. i've tightened teh screw back down and all has been fine. someone told me once not to tighten the screw too tight due to the fact that it may cause damage to the internal diaphram.. i cant verify this thoguh.
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