Project Big Wankel
12-01-05, 12:17 PM
#1
Project Big Wankel
After sitting at AIM Tuning for about 2 months, work has finally begun on my '83 GSL. I had found the car locally where it had been sitting in a guys garage for 7 years. Awesome body and interior, practically no rust.
The problem? Engine didn't run. The previous owner claimed it had a blown apex seal. Got the car for 600. So the guys at AIM ripped open the tired 12a, where I was expecting to find a shredded housing and other bad suprises. It turns out I got lucky.
Inside, they found a beautiful set of rotor housings, shiny enough to see your reflection. Apparently there was no apex seal failure. Also, it had N Rotors. For those of you that don't know, N Rotors are the lightest and strongest rotors ever put in a stock RX-7 engine. They didn't make them for very long because they were expensive to produce, and were stronger than actually necessary for a stock engine. This made me happy, to say the least. The endplates are a bit trashy, but those are easy to come by.
I sat down and discussed all of the parts that needed to be ordered for the build and let my planned budget fly out the window. We've got a slew of high performance internals on the way. 3mm dual spring apex seals, various FD bits, gsl-se oil pump, etc. Also, the engine will be "aggressively" street ported by Clinton, the ADHD rotary engine specialist. Fun guy. A steel flywheel will be used and the rotating assembly will be balanced.
Clinton. Image taken from aimtuning.com
Needless to say, the engine will be pretty badass. Since the car has been sitting for 7 years, pretty much everything rubber on the underside needs to be replaced, along wilth all of most of the brake parts. I'll keep you posted.
The problem? Engine didn't run. The previous owner claimed it had a blown apex seal. Got the car for 600. So the guys at AIM ripped open the tired 12a, where I was expecting to find a shredded housing and other bad suprises. It turns out I got lucky.
Inside, they found a beautiful set of rotor housings, shiny enough to see your reflection. Apparently there was no apex seal failure. Also, it had N Rotors. For those of you that don't know, N Rotors are the lightest and strongest rotors ever put in a stock RX-7 engine. They didn't make them for very long because they were expensive to produce, and were stronger than actually necessary for a stock engine. This made me happy, to say the least. The endplates are a bit trashy, but those are easy to come by.
I sat down and discussed all of the parts that needed to be ordered for the build and let my planned budget fly out the window. We've got a slew of high performance internals on the way. 3mm dual spring apex seals, various FD bits, gsl-se oil pump, etc. Also, the engine will be "aggressively" street ported by Clinton, the ADHD rotary engine specialist. Fun guy. A steel flywheel will be used and the rotating assembly will be balanced.
Clinton. Image taken from aimtuning.com
Needless to say, the engine will be pretty badass. Since the car has been sitting for 7 years, pretty much everything rubber on the underside needs to be replaced, along wilth all of most of the brake parts. I'll keep you posted.
12-03-05, 02:08 AM
#6
Take some advice from me. My project started exactly the same way (sitting for 5 years, perfect body and interior)
do ALL the brakes. Don't turn your discs or drums, don't rebuild your calipers or wheel cylinders. Don't rebuild your brake master. Replace it ALL. If you don't do it at first, the parts you don't do will fail soon thereafter and you'll end up doing it all anyway.
The carburetor should be rebuilt, the gas tank emptied and professionally cleaned and the fuel lines flushed. Gas turns to a thick varnish-like substance after the first few years, and gums up the works big time. New fuel filters are a must, you'll go through two or three in your first season even if you get everything properly flushed.
Your clutch is gone. I was warned of this and was like "nah, I have paperwork to prove it was practically new when the car was stored". It lasted two days. Mine shredded itself down to a paper-thin disc and lots of black powder during the first Rotary meet my car attended, two days after it came out. Sitting in 1st, revving the engine past 2krpm and having the car just sit there is totally surreal feeling.
Suspension probably isn't far behind. My springs had been sitting still for so long the car was sagging. Even after installing RB springs and KYB GR-2 gas shocks (almost an inch drop from stock) my car was higher than when I satarted.
Rubber, as you've noticed, degrades. There are more rubber parts in your car than I originally realized. I already mentioned the calipers and wheel cylinders, but I also ended up replacing the entire steering rack and front bushings. Ball joints, tie rods (inner and outer), idler arm, pitman arm, end links w/ bushings, control arm bushings, and bushings for the sway bar.
For the carb, I got Rx7Carl to rebuild it. Best decision I ever made. My fuel pump died because of the crappy varnish stuff, so I replaced it with a more powerful Mallory Comp70 and a Holley 1-4psi FPR, which provided the fuel I needed for that carb.
And of course, when my engine was siezed from the lack of lubrication and the carbon buildup, I tried to start it and blew a starter. Oh well.
Other than that, replace all fluids and filters. Don't forget transmission and rear differential. Those probably haven't been done in the life of the car.
I recommend Purolator PureONE oil filters (PL14459). Can't beat it. For thermostats I use only genuine mazda brass thermostats (bypass style with the funky "jiggle pin").
I haven't yet rebuilt the engine. Amazingly enough ATF saved my siezed engine (in retrospect I'd have used MMO or another thin oil that doesn't eat rubber).
Good luck, and have fun with your project. Sitting cars are a lot of work, but many of them have such amazing bodies and interiors that it's worth it.
Jon
do ALL the brakes. Don't turn your discs or drums, don't rebuild your calipers or wheel cylinders. Don't rebuild your brake master. Replace it ALL. If you don't do it at first, the parts you don't do will fail soon thereafter and you'll end up doing it all anyway.
The carburetor should be rebuilt, the gas tank emptied and professionally cleaned and the fuel lines flushed. Gas turns to a thick varnish-like substance after the first few years, and gums up the works big time. New fuel filters are a must, you'll go through two or three in your first season even if you get everything properly flushed.
Your clutch is gone. I was warned of this and was like "nah, I have paperwork to prove it was practically new when the car was stored". It lasted two days. Mine shredded itself down to a paper-thin disc and lots of black powder during the first Rotary meet my car attended, two days after it came out. Sitting in 1st, revving the engine past 2krpm and having the car just sit there is totally surreal feeling.
Suspension probably isn't far behind. My springs had been sitting still for so long the car was sagging. Even after installing RB springs and KYB GR-2 gas shocks (almost an inch drop from stock) my car was higher than when I satarted.
Rubber, as you've noticed, degrades. There are more rubber parts in your car than I originally realized. I already mentioned the calipers and wheel cylinders, but I also ended up replacing the entire steering rack and front bushings. Ball joints, tie rods (inner and outer), idler arm, pitman arm, end links w/ bushings, control arm bushings, and bushings for the sway bar.
For the carb, I got Rx7Carl to rebuild it. Best decision I ever made. My fuel pump died because of the crappy varnish stuff, so I replaced it with a more powerful Mallory Comp70 and a Holley 1-4psi FPR, which provided the fuel I needed for that carb.
And of course, when my engine was siezed from the lack of lubrication and the carbon buildup, I tried to start it and blew a starter. Oh well.
Other than that, replace all fluids and filters. Don't forget transmission and rear differential. Those probably haven't been done in the life of the car.
I recommend Purolator PureONE oil filters (PL14459). Can't beat it. For thermostats I use only genuine mazda brass thermostats (bypass style with the funky "jiggle pin").
I haven't yet rebuilt the engine. Amazingly enough ATF saved my siezed engine (in retrospect I'd have used MMO or another thin oil that doesn't eat rubber).
Good luck, and have fun with your project. Sitting cars are a lot of work, but many of them have such amazing bodies and interiors that it's worth it.
Jon
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12-03-05, 02:46 PM
#9
Originally Posted by vipernicus42
Take some advice from me. My project started exactly the same way (sitting for 5 years, perfect body and interior)
do ALL the brakes. Don't turn your discs or drums, don't rebuild your calipers or wheel cylinders. Don't rebuild your brake master. Replace it ALL. If you don't do it at first, the parts you don't do will fail soon thereafter and you'll end up doing it all anyway.
The carburetor should be rebuilt, the gas tank emptied and professionally cleaned and the fuel lines flushed. Gas turns to a thick varnish-like substance after the first few years, and gums up the works big time. New fuel filters are a must, you'll go through two or three in your first season even if you get everything properly flushed.
Your clutch is gone. I was warned of this and was like "nah, I have paperwork to prove it was practically new when the car was stored". It lasted two days. Mine shredded itself down to a paper-thin disc and lots of black powder during the first Rotary meet my car attended, two days after it came out. Sitting in 1st, revving the engine past 2krpm and having the car just sit there is totally surreal feeling.
Suspension probably isn't far behind. My springs had been sitting still for so long the car was sagging. Even after installing RB springs and KYB GR-2 gas shocks (almost an inch drop from stock) my car was higher than when I satarted.
Rubber, as you've noticed, degrades. There are more rubber parts in your car than I originally realized. I already mentioned the calipers and wheel cylinders, but I also ended up replacing the entire steering rack and front bushings. Ball joints, tie rods (inner and outer), idler arm, pitman arm, end links w/ bushings, control arm bushings, and bushings for the sway bar.
For the carb, I got Rx7Carl to rebuild it. Best decision I ever made. My fuel pump died because of the crappy varnish stuff, so I replaced it with a more powerful Mallory Comp70 and a Holley 1-4psi FPR, which provided the fuel I needed for that carb.
And of course, when my engine was siezed from the lack of lubrication and the carbon buildup, I tried to start it and blew a starter. Oh well.
Other than that, replace all fluids and filters. Don't forget transmission and rear differential. Those probably haven't been done in the life of the car.
I recommend Purolator PureONE oil filters (PL14459). Can't beat it. For thermostats I use only genuine mazda brass thermostats (bypass style with the funky "jiggle pin").
I haven't yet rebuilt the engine. Amazingly enough ATF saved my siezed engine (in retrospect I'd have used MMO or another thin oil that doesn't eat rubber).
Good luck, and have fun with your project. Sitting cars are a lot of work, but many of them have such amazing bodies and interiors that it's worth it.
Jon
do ALL the brakes. Don't turn your discs or drums, don't rebuild your calipers or wheel cylinders. Don't rebuild your brake master. Replace it ALL. If you don't do it at first, the parts you don't do will fail soon thereafter and you'll end up doing it all anyway.
The carburetor should be rebuilt, the gas tank emptied and professionally cleaned and the fuel lines flushed. Gas turns to a thick varnish-like substance after the first few years, and gums up the works big time. New fuel filters are a must, you'll go through two or three in your first season even if you get everything properly flushed.
Your clutch is gone. I was warned of this and was like "nah, I have paperwork to prove it was practically new when the car was stored". It lasted two days. Mine shredded itself down to a paper-thin disc and lots of black powder during the first Rotary meet my car attended, two days after it came out. Sitting in 1st, revving the engine past 2krpm and having the car just sit there is totally surreal feeling.
Suspension probably isn't far behind. My springs had been sitting still for so long the car was sagging. Even after installing RB springs and KYB GR-2 gas shocks (almost an inch drop from stock) my car was higher than when I satarted.
Rubber, as you've noticed, degrades. There are more rubber parts in your car than I originally realized. I already mentioned the calipers and wheel cylinders, but I also ended up replacing the entire steering rack and front bushings. Ball joints, tie rods (inner and outer), idler arm, pitman arm, end links w/ bushings, control arm bushings, and bushings for the sway bar.
For the carb, I got Rx7Carl to rebuild it. Best decision I ever made. My fuel pump died because of the crappy varnish stuff, so I replaced it with a more powerful Mallory Comp70 and a Holley 1-4psi FPR, which provided the fuel I needed for that carb.
And of course, when my engine was siezed from the lack of lubrication and the carbon buildup, I tried to start it and blew a starter. Oh well.
Other than that, replace all fluids and filters. Don't forget transmission and rear differential. Those probably haven't been done in the life of the car.
I recommend Purolator PureONE oil filters (PL14459). Can't beat it. For thermostats I use only genuine mazda brass thermostats (bypass style with the funky "jiggle pin").
I haven't yet rebuilt the engine. Amazingly enough ATF saved my siezed engine (in retrospect I'd have used MMO or another thin oil that doesn't eat rubber).
Good luck, and have fun with your project. Sitting cars are a lot of work, but many of them have such amazing bodies and interiors that it's worth it.
Jon
Actually, I've already got most of that covered. Since the car has been sitting at AIM for 2 or 3 months, I've had plenty of time to stock up on parts I need. I've got 4 new brake rotors, stainless steel brake lines, new calipers, and a used but good condition master from my parts car.
I've got a Mikuni 44 that is being overhauled, the gas tank was removed and cleaned last week, I'm putting double fuel filters before the Comp 70 that I'm have been planning to get towards the end of the project.
The clutch is going to be replaced to go with the lightweight flywheel. I've got the suspension more than covered, with camber plates, coil-overs, eibach springs, and Koni shocks.
The transmission was rebuilt about 15k before the car began it's hibernation, the rearend is going to be rebuilt, possibly with an LSD overhaul. AIM has already started to order the slew of replacement rubber parts for the undercarriage and suspension.
And of course the engine will be perfect =D AIM pretty much refuses to put anything but PureOne filters on their cars, so that's covered.
Also on the list of stuff that I'll be doing:
-Front mount oil cooler
-2GDFIS
-Battery relocation
-Dyno tuning
-Bunches of fun gauges to make sure my expensive investment is running correctly
Am I forgetting anything?
Last edited by RustyRotary; 12-03-05 at 02:53 PM.
12-03-05, 02:51 PM
#10
Terrified.
Extremely nice looking car. Hopefully someday my car will be running with a 13b TII, and I'll probably try to get everything rewired through AIM if it ever happens. A friend and I are talking about getting a place in Indy sometime soon and if so then my 7 will be in Indy all the time. It stopped being as important to me to get my first gen fixed up, I want to be an FD owner moreso, and I'm finally making enough to afford one so I am going to go for it when the weather gets better.
Also, my seven had been sitting for years as well and tried to do all the quick fixes as well with the brakes - I just finished replacing everything after my brakes going out three times.
Also, my seven had been sitting for years as well and tried to do all the quick fixes as well with the brakes - I just finished replacing everything after my brakes going out three times.
Last edited by Naegleria_Fowleri; 12-03-05 at 02:54 PM.
12-03-05, 11:20 PM
#12
It is my understanding that they are early S3 12a rotors. Something about the casting/forging/whatever method used for N rotors made them stronger and lighter than any other 12a rotor. I believe they're around 8 something pounds. Of course, they were impractical for Mazda to make because they didn't provide enough of a benefit to justify the hefty increase in manufacturing cost. But from a tuner standpoint it's obviously completely worth it =D
12-13-05, 11:11 PM
#13
Well I got my estimate for just the engine work the other day. They've already finished the porting and are waiting on parts. Here are all of the services and goodies. The total cost brings tears to my eyes, but that's the price you pay indestructible engine.
Services:
-Teardown/Inspection
-Clean and clearance rotor assembly
-Streetport
-Balance rotating assembly
-Assemble
New Parts:
-Rotor Bearings
-Main Bearings
-90 PSI Oil Pressure Regulator
-Corner Seal Springs
-2mm Solid Corner Seals
-Side Seal Springs
-Side Seals
-Competition Rr outer oil seal springs
-Competition Fr outer oil seal springs
-Rr inner oil seal springs
-Fr inner oil seal springs
-13B Viton oil control ring set
-Engine gasket set
-Competition F/R torrington needle bearings
-Bearing plate
-Thrust washer
-Oil baffle plate
-Rotary Aviation 3mm Apex Seal kit, dual spring configuration
-Competition E-shaft oil jets
Used Parts:
-GSL-SE oil pump
-Oil control seals
Services:
-Teardown/Inspection
-Clean and clearance rotor assembly
-Streetport
-Balance rotating assembly
-Assemble
New Parts:
-Rotor Bearings
-Main Bearings
-90 PSI Oil Pressure Regulator
-Corner Seal Springs
-2mm Solid Corner Seals
-Side Seal Springs
-Side Seals
-Competition Rr outer oil seal springs
-Competition Fr outer oil seal springs
-Rr inner oil seal springs
-Fr inner oil seal springs
-13B Viton oil control ring set
-Engine gasket set
-Competition F/R torrington needle bearings
-Bearing plate
-Thrust washer
-Oil baffle plate
-Rotary Aviation 3mm Apex Seal kit, dual spring configuration
-Competition E-shaft oil jets
Used Parts:
-GSL-SE oil pump
-Oil control seals
Last edited by RustyRotary; 12-13-05 at 11:14 PM.
02-26-06, 01:26 AM
#16
It's been a while, but the project is rollin' again!
I've finally aqcuired enough money to finish the car. So, I bought myself an alluminum flywheel and a stage 2 ACT clutch. Yummy. When the counterwieght arrives the rotating assembly will be shipped off for balancing.
I've also got some of the new ISC Racing rear spring adjusters on the way, to finish off the suspension components.
A couple of pictures of my sexy porting job
And of course, Shane, the head man at AIM
I've finally aqcuired enough money to finish the car. So, I bought myself an alluminum flywheel and a stage 2 ACT clutch. Yummy. When the counterwieght arrives the rotating assembly will be shipped off for balancing.
I've also got some of the new ISC Racing rear spring adjusters on the way, to finish off the suspension components.
A couple of pictures of my sexy porting job
And of course, Shane, the head man at AIM
04-24-06, 06:55 PM
#20
Time for an update (mostly out of boredom)
The engine balancing was delayed because Mazdaspeed had some trouble coming up with some drive pulleys, but it arrived at long last and the balancing is done. The ultimate N/A 12a is almost complete!
In the mean time I've been transplanting the black interior from my GS into the GSL, since the fecal-brown just wasn't cutting it. I've acquired a pair of Turbo II seats to go in, and a Mallory Comp-70 fuel pump ($38 on ebay, as opposed to the $158 summit racing price) to feed the beast. It's huge.
Only problem now is figuring out how to pay for my insurance up-front. Blargh.
The engine balancing was delayed because Mazdaspeed had some trouble coming up with some drive pulleys, but it arrived at long last and the balancing is done. The ultimate N/A 12a is almost complete!
In the mean time I've been transplanting the black interior from my GS into the GSL, since the fecal-brown just wasn't cutting it. I've acquired a pair of Turbo II seats to go in, and a Mallory Comp-70 fuel pump ($38 on ebay, as opposed to the $158 summit racing price) to feed the beast. It's huge.
Only problem now is figuring out how to pay for my insurance up-front. Blargh.
04-25-06, 01:19 AM
#23
Wow man... Definitely impressive. You're building in one shot the car that will take me a few years to complete. Then again, I did 80% of that in one-shot on my car, but the engine and for me, paint, are two more seperate years.
I can't wait to see it.
Did you port the outer part of the intake runners? You have to be careful with that because you can actually *lose* flow by opening it up.
http://www.yawpower.com/Flow%20Testing.html
Jon
I can't wait to see it.
Did you port the outer part of the intake runners? You have to be careful with that because you can actually *lose* flow by opening it up.
http://www.yawpower.com/Flow%20Testing.html
Jon
06-18-06, 03:32 PM
#24
Thanks, and yeah, the runners are ported. But the guy who is doing my ports has flowbenched all of his designs, so I'm not worried.
As for now, no turbo. I'll save that for when I get out of college and get bored with the streetport =P I'm going with Idimitsu for the oil
As for now, no turbo. I'll save that for when I get out of college and get bored with the streetport =P I'm going with Idimitsu for the oil
06-18-06, 03:38 PM
#25
Okay, here's the current update.
My rotor got dented during shipping on the way back from the balance. Bummer. But the company sent me a new one, and the engine is all done. It goes in tomorrow. I also installed my spoiler. Sorry for the bad pics, and yeah, the car looks pretty pathetic right now. I have to get some new tires and some doublestick tape to put the side strips back on =P
The ISC springs and rear adjusters
Spoiler. Black of course =D
My rotor got dented during shipping on the way back from the balance. Bummer. But the company sent me a new one, and the engine is all done. It goes in tomorrow. I also installed my spoiler. Sorry for the bad pics, and yeah, the car looks pretty pathetic right now. I have to get some new tires and some doublestick tape to put the side strips back on =P
The ISC springs and rear adjusters
Spoiler. Black of course =D
Last edited by RustyRotary; 06-18-06 at 04:05 PM.