Project:"beat all honda rice burners at school"
#76
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: warner robins, Georgia
ohh the roots on the rice...very nice...got clear understand on the meaning...but around here (and most everywhere i think) a rice burner is just someone who gets a car and does stupid stuff like steal wings and pointless body kits when they dont have the engine to back it up. at leasts thats wut i think.
ok where should i get the clutch slave and master cylinder?? stock or some kind of aftermarket...ill prolly order soon so let me know.
and another thing iv been meaning to do is replace all my fluids. but iv gota pay her off first i guess..thats the main thing to do. thanks for them advice and help..keep it comming. lata
Brad
ok where should i get the clutch slave and master cylinder?? stock or some kind of aftermarket...ill prolly order soon so let me know.
and another thing iv been meaning to do is replace all my fluids. but iv gota pay her off first i guess..thats the main thing to do. thanks for them advice and help..keep it comming. lata
Brad
#77
Yea, I'm working on it...
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,220
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From: Click click fucking click, Africa
Alright, you need to buy some reading material. A Haynes manual and a Victoria British catalog. That should give you a good start.
www.VictoriaBritish.com
From Victoria British:
Clutch Master-39.95 + s&h
Clutch Slave-19.95 + s&h
Having your clutch go out (due to a leaking slave cylinder) on the highway and almost getting plowed by a semi cuz you couldn't get into gear-priceless
www.VictoriaBritish.com
From Victoria British:
Clutch Master-39.95 + s&h
Clutch Slave-19.95 + s&h
Having your clutch go out (due to a leaking slave cylinder) on the highway and almost getting plowed by a semi cuz you couldn't get into gear-priceless
#80
Was it this one? http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/85_manual.html
#82
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: warner robins, Georgia
yea its on the 2nd page of this thread i believe...u have to d/l each section but its all good..considering its free and i owe like 120 bucks does anyone have any spare..used...or even new headers-exhaust?...thats my next BIG thing that needs replaced but i dont have $500 for a new system right now. well lata
Brad
Brad
#85
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: warner robins, Georgia
iv been ****** around for about an hour..found some stuff up in the attic and started a cool air intake..got everything from the intake to right in front of the radiator suport... maybe tomorrow i cut a hole...but prolly not im not to thrilled with my work...not the best lookin...best workin thing around ill take pics tomorrow...and now that i think about it... its a really shitty job i was just bored but whatever.. lata
Brad
Brad
#86
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: warner robins, Georgia
i posted earlier my clutch went out...well today i went out and grabed my keys out of it and there was a puddle of clutch fluid in front of my seat...the seal around the pin that is pushed in is blown. also is the clutch fluid filler the small cylinder shape on on the drivers side of the engine bay?? is so theres nothing but chunky mess in there. the very next thing i get us gona be flushin out every liquid and replacing it.
#91
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From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
Clutch and Brake Fluid: Dot 4 (any brand, I use my local parts store brand)
Transmission Fluid: RedLine MT-90. It's expensive, but definitely worth it. Especially considering how often you change that fluid (like.. never!)
Oil: 10w30 is a good bet, use non-synthetic. Some people on the forum use 20w50 with some success, and there's alot of debate as to whether or not to use synthetic oil, but I figure that since non-syn is cheaper, and just as good you might as well save the money.
Antifreeze: 50/50 ethelene-glycol based antifreeze/ DISTILLED water. Don't use tap water because it'll speed up deposits in your rad and coolant system
Rear Differential Fluid: This varies depending on if you have Limited-Slip or not. If you have drum brakes in the back (S, GS) then use Synthetic 75w90. Any brand will do. If you have Disc Brakes in the rear (GSL, GSL-SE), then you'll have to use something else, I just can't remember what.
Don't forget to change the blinker fluid
And while you're changing all your fluids, change filters too. Fuel Filter! (5$ and 5 minutes and it saves SO much trouble), Oil filter, Air Filter (K&N is good if you have the cleaning/oiling kit and you clean/oil it periodically).
Hope it helps. Oh, and if you haven't already: a set of spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor will help ALOT in preventative maintanence. A thermostat is good too if you want to stop overheating problems before they start.
For the oil filter and thermostat/gasket, get them from Mazda. It costs a couple extra bucks, but it's a good investment. Many guys on this forum only use Mazda Oil filters and thermostats.
Good Luck
Jon
Transmission Fluid: RedLine MT-90. It's expensive, but definitely worth it. Especially considering how often you change that fluid (like.. never!)
Oil: 10w30 is a good bet, use non-synthetic. Some people on the forum use 20w50 with some success, and there's alot of debate as to whether or not to use synthetic oil, but I figure that since non-syn is cheaper, and just as good you might as well save the money.
Antifreeze: 50/50 ethelene-glycol based antifreeze/ DISTILLED water. Don't use tap water because it'll speed up deposits in your rad and coolant system
Rear Differential Fluid: This varies depending on if you have Limited-Slip or not. If you have drum brakes in the back (S, GS) then use Synthetic 75w90. Any brand will do. If you have Disc Brakes in the rear (GSL, GSL-SE), then you'll have to use something else, I just can't remember what.
Don't forget to change the blinker fluid
And while you're changing all your fluids, change filters too. Fuel Filter! (5$ and 5 minutes and it saves SO much trouble), Oil filter, Air Filter (K&N is good if you have the cleaning/oiling kit and you clean/oil it periodically).
Hope it helps. Oh, and if you haven't already: a set of spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor will help ALOT in preventative maintanence. A thermostat is good too if you want to stop overheating problems before they start.
For the oil filter and thermostat/gasket, get them from Mazda. It costs a couple extra bucks, but it's a good investment. Many guys on this forum only use Mazda Oil filters and thermostats.
Good Luck
Jon
#92
Yeah, what Jon said.
Read this page. Remember this page. Uber helpful.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=237777
Read this page. Remember this page. Uber helpful.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=237777
#93
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 320
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From: warner robins, Georgia
OK since i Do want to be drivin my rx as soon as possible i started takin care of the little stuff. master and slave cylinders for my clutch are on the way. new racing seats will be in monday. cleaned the engin up and got rid of all oil leaks. when i get my clutch back workin i gota pick up a battery. and that SHOULD have her runnin good at least for a lil while. after doing more research iv been kinda moving to a blow through setup.
also soon im gona completely redo my door panels and gettin some fresh carpet put in. im kinda tryin to get the interior close to done...dont wanna scare off my g/f..lol. well monday ill post pics of my seats...then later when there installed and tell about how shes runnin after clutch is fixed..lata
Brad
also soon im gona completely redo my door panels and gettin some fresh carpet put in. im kinda tryin to get the interior close to done...dont wanna scare off my g/f..lol. well monday ill post pics of my seats...then later when there installed and tell about how shes runnin after clutch is fixed..lata
Brad
#94
Only if you really know a good bit about carbs and want to deal with them is the only way I would do a turbo blow through system. I would just say do your homework and maybe actually see one on a car and see what its all about in person. I know it obviously can be done, but i am thinking that maybe you should have an understanding before you throw it on there. Oh and the master cylinder is a piece of cake. You sound like a younger version of me, when I was 15 like 3 years ago.
Y ou will definitley grow in knowledge with this car, its fairly high maintenance, when you are fixing one up. Good luck man.
Y ou will definitley grow in knowledge with this car, its fairly high maintenance, when you are fixing one up. Good luck man.
#95
Hey,
I'm 15 also, doing a resto on my dad's 1st gen 7 that I'm buying from him. I've been following this string since it started, basically. Amen to beating the tuners at school. Do everyone a favor and don't kill yourself. Good luck.
I'm 15 also, doing a resto on my dad's 1st gen 7 that I'm buying from him. I've been following this string since it started, basically. Amen to beating the tuners at school. Do everyone a favor and don't kill yourself. Good luck.
#98
I jsut got my seven in november, its still not drivable, but in a month it should be all done. I'd put the carpet back in, and the first thing i would do after i get road legal would be k&n filter, and exhaust.
#100
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 320
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From: warner robins, Georgia
heres another view...they wont be instaled untill i get the car rollin again so we can drive it to my dads shop and weld in brackets and what not. there pretty nice tho. covered in vinyl "simulated leather" seem to be tough but well see. well thats all for now.
Brad
Brad