i already started my project, will post pics at the bottom. Car is a 1984 Mazda RX-7
GSL-SE. Motor has about 200 miles on it, recently rebuild. My plans for the car is a 6port turbo. I have most of the parts already.

2 S4 or S5 Turbo, can't tell the difference --- FREE
1 S4 Intake Manifold --- FREE
3 Intercoolers to choose from --- FREE
1 RB Weber 45 DCOE Carb w/manifold --- $400

Parts needed
Oil lines
Fuel Controller
FPR
Throttle Body
Fuel Rail
Injectors
???? (what else am i missing)

 

alright guys, i need some help on this one. on the turbo, there is two wastegates. can i remove the one of them or do i have to use it? i'm asking because if i leave the big one on the turbo, it won't fit because it hits the cross member. whats the benefits of using both of the wastegate as suppose to using one? sorry to sound like a dumb ***, but this is the first time i'm turbocharging a NA. I would buy a 13bt buy im low on cash and i already have most of the parts laying around. thanks for taking your time and reading this. will post more pics as the project progresses. THANKS

 

i only have one wastegate on my s5 turbo. yours looks like s4 turbos from the flatish exhaust turbine housings. i have no clue on wut that growth is on the upper turbo. does it connect to the swing valve in the exhuast. if not chuck it.

carl.

 

The turbo with the "extra" wastgate actuator is the S4 twin scroll actuator. You can remove it or probably best just use the S5 turbo, it has two wastegate flaps inside the turbine housing and has a bent actuator arm.

If you're going FI, then scrap the carb stuff. Also, you need to think about what ECU you intend to use, the S4 would be the best IMHO or standalone, don't use the SE ECU. Also look for a new AFM from an S4 turbo. Lot's of stuff for you to think about.

You can putt around town at 5 psi boost and use the SE fuel pump, but if you go any higher I'd recommend a Walbro 255 inline pump and a new FPR.

There's a lot to a FI turbo setup so really study up on what you are doing--especially with the high compression rotors in the SE.

 

more pics, one of them shows the wastegate i was talking about.

 

ur running both fuel injecion and carb,boosting a carb is simple, i mean putting evrything together ,tuning is tuff ,but ur doing both?

 

no, my original plan was blow-thru on my SA. Then i picked up the GSL-SE. So now i'm going to turbo the GSL-SE using fuel injection. The carb will just sit around in the garage and collect dust or i might just put it in the SA. Can i just use an after market fuel controller instead of the S4 ecu?

 

You won't be able to use the S4 intake without some modifications. For FI go stand alone i.e. Haltech, Microtech...etc

 

I'm not sure what you're talking about "fuel controller". If you mean like a Apexi SAFC or HKS AFR, then I'd say you won't have enough fuel with the GSL-SE system.

First I don't think the SE AFM will read that much airflow, second it won't compensate for boost, and third, you'd have to use like (2) 1000 or 1200 cc injectors to get close to the T2 fuel capabilities. Remember the SE only has two 680 cc injectors while the T2 has four 550 cc injectors. Maybe you could run four 680 cc injectors off the two SE channels, but I'm not sure the injector drivers in the ECU can handle that much current.

Any way you cook it two 680's won't be enough fuel. To do this right you should either go with the T2 EFI system like I did or get a true standalone. A megasquirt fuel controller, MSD spark unit with boost retard would also work--but you have to tune and set it all up yourself.

Maybe another option would be the GSL-SE ECU and the Greddy E-manage. You can adjust fuel and spark with the E-manage. Also it can handle additional injectors which you will need. But again you can run into the AFM being maxed out.

Good luck, sounds like you have alot to learn. Just remember a high compression turbo setup is not the best engine to be "learning" how to tune--one mistake in any system and you blow your engine.

Scott

 

The intake manifold it taken care of. i just need to smooth out the ports.

 

Right now you will not need to go stand alone. You can run 5psi of boost on your current set up with the stock ECU and Stock Intake. I am currently running 5psi on my stock 6port -SE with the stock ECU. I do have a Walbro 255 fuel pump and I am running a Cartech 2025 FMU on the fuel return line. This FMU see boost pressure and then backs the fuel pressure up to the injectors so when the cycle comes around for the injector to spit there is more pressure to push which in return means more fuel. You are running 680cc injectors which is plunty of fuel for 5psi. If you add 2 more injectors you will need a Haltech F5 or go with SDS to control them extra injectors. Right Now I am running a little rich due to the fact the guy that owned the car before me had a Racingbeat Street exhaust system on it, reason I am stating that is because when that exhaust is installed you loose the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor along with a few other variables control how much fuel is dumped. Seeings there was no longer a O2 sensor the ECU changed over to WOT map seeings it was not recieving a current flow form the O2 so this is a fail safe. I am going to wire the O2 back to the ECU tomorrow and hope it will cut back on the fuel in crusing (which is above 2k rpm) As far as things you will need to get to do this setup, you will need a oil block from raving beat to make your oil feed line, I am using a -3AN feed and a -12AN drain. I have such a large drain due to the fact I returned it back into the oil pan and the drain is gravity fed. The turbo sets a little higher than the oil pan in my setup so the oil will level seeings it is a liquid. And you really need a boost dependent FMU, I would suggest a Cartech. Do a search on Ebay you will find one. I would suggest using the FMI you have instead of the TII one you have to choose from. I have attached a phot of my FMI setup for a reference. All I can think of right now. If you have any questions drop me a PM.

 

I wouldnt use the S4 intake, the stock SE intake is not the bottle next in the system the AFM is. Once you go standalone you will rid of this bottle neck. As for what RX4Life stated that the AFM will not read that much air flow, what will happen is the door is forced wide open which is telling the system to dump fuel due to the fact is feels it is suck loads of air. My main thing when building my car was to keep it looking like a SE, so when I pop the hood on my car it still looks stock ecept for the intake on the turbo and the mean Purple BOV.

 

Here is the pic you requested ;]
This is the most recent shot and one of the better shots to show you how close the turbo is with the manifold i used. Hope this helped some. I will send more pix to you next year ;]


HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!!!!

 

Uhh--I don't know about "plenty". Stock boost on a S4 T2 is 6.56 psi--I think there is a reason why Mazda used 2200 cc's of injectors. Two 680's are only 1360 cc's. It may be working for you now but I'd be leary of running like that under all conditions in the operating envelope. Another thing to consider is ambient temps and pressure, 10-20 deg f is alot different than 60-80 f, that turbo really starts to pump some air when it gets cold. Remember, CFM + Fuel ==> power.

Not knocking your set-up at all, just saying be careful giving advice. One big thing you have going for you is that FMIC, make a mistake in one system and the FMIC can help save your butt.

Search over in the 2nd gen forum and you'll find some people that mod their T2 and don't know fully what they are doing--and in some cases results in a blown engine. All I'm saying is be careful, with the stock SE engine and EFI you will be running a fine line. Best thing to do is get it set up and check it out on a dyno with a WB.

 

alright guys, need some help on this one. will the GSL-SE sensors on the motor work with the s4 wire harness? Can i block everything off on the in. mani.? what do i need to keep/take off on the car. i knw the rats nest can come off but what about the vacuum advance for the dist.? I'm getting ready to pull everything out from the engine bay. make it look cleaner. i already disc. the wire harness from the ecu and pulled it through the firewall into the engine bay. thanks for the good info all of you have givin, i really appreciate you guys taking your time and helping me out with this. keep the info comming and thanks again. HAPPY NEW YEAR you guys and gals

 

why can't things go like i plan on new years day. man this suck. for those of you that are wondering why i sound pissed off, its because the lower intake manifold just cracked on me.
just the corner broke off. I go and bolt the upper manifold to the lower manifold and next thing you know, the damn thing crack. what do you guys suggest on how to fix this? the first thing that poped in my head was epoxy. would that work?
what about JB Weld?

 

Really need to bring it to a shop that can aluminum tig weld. This would be the best thing. They will weld it for you and sand it down. I have found an great shop arround me that I bring all my welds to. Just a suggestion. I would not use JB weld due to the fact this is an area that need to make a tight seal unless you will make a leak in the system if the JB weld was to give flex.

 

thanks for the reply. i will call around tomorrow or sumthin

 

krazy, i would strongly suggest you read up on turbos and rotary turbo engines. The best choice for turbo'ing a first gen SE is to slip a T2 engine in it. That is my opinion.

 

i know what your saying hanman. but since i already have most of the parts i might as well turbo the car. just trying something different. if i blow the motor oh wells. i guess i'll just have to get a real turbo motor. but thats later on down the road.

 

I am doing the same thing. But not doing it untill the summer. I tried to do it the carb route, now I am doing a stand alone fuel system. On the T2 intake and injectors. Good luck with your setup, and get that thing tigged back together.

 

i finally got the mani tig welded. does anybody know if the S4 primary fuel rail will fit on the S3 block? if so i will buy it. all i need now is oil lines for the turbo, and the left harness from a S4 TII. will the NA S4 left harness work? i posted in the 2nd gen forum, but it seems like they don't care. maybe cause it ain't a FC. i get more help here then over there. thats what i like about you 1st gen owners, you guys are very helpful.

 

I'm doing the same.... ****note****haltech f5 needs bosch injectors to function properly.

I bought the f5, Now I just have to save up for my fuel set up. I think I'll be going with www.injector.com for all my fuel needs.

I will keep the se manifolds but add the injector bungs and rails to make it work. I bought the FMU from vortech. But I still must port the s4 tubo and order flanges to have a custom turbo manifold made.

I think it costs just as much to turbo a 6-port as buying the t2 motor minus all the work to put it in.

However I haven't started building anything as of yet, I think I will spend one more summer n/a. I really haven't had too much time to work on the car.

 

my project is doing good so far. all i gotta do now is make a left side harness. all i need to know is, what is not needed on the left harness if im not running the emissions stuff? i want to run as little wires as possible.

 

hey krazy u got any new info on about whats happen with ur 6 port turbo im coming home from hell and i wanna do the same to my se

thanks