Pressure pushing dipstick out????
#1
Pressure pushing dipstick out????
So as I was reving my engine from the carb, I noticed a sound about every 10 secs that resembled a purge. I went to to Driver side & continued to listen & realised it was coming out of where the dipstick goes in & had been pushed out (the dipstick). I put it back in, reved it for about another 10secs & when I pulled it out it shot out & was def under pressure. I've noticed that on the Oil fill neck, alot of ppl put small filters or a catch can. Can it be The hose I have on mine isn't where it's suppose to be???? There's a substantail amount of pressure building & i'm pretty sure it's suppose to vent from somewhere. Here's a pic of how it's currently set up. Should I plug the nipple on the plate & filter the one on the neck??? I think that'll help w the issue......
Any & all input in greatly appreciated
Any & all input in greatly appreciated
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#8
Old Fart Young at Heart
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It won't. The oiling and cooling systems are totally separate and for good reason. When oil and coolant mixes it makes a very nasty frothy milkshake that neither cools nor lubricates well. Keep a nose on your dipstick. When compression starts bypassing the sideseals into the crankcase, the oil tends to become fuel diluted. You may need to change your oil more often.
#9
It won't. The oiling and cooling systems are totally separate and for good reason. When oil and coolant mixes it makes a very nasty frothy milkshake that neither cools nor lubricates well. Keep a nose on your dipstick. When compression starts bypassing the sideseals into the crankcase, the oil tends to become fuel diluted. You may need to change your oil more often.
#11
I've noticed on the oil fill neck & on the dipstick there's been that white milkshaky thing on occation. I've read that it's condensation that turns the oil into that & I shouldn't worry about it unless I see antifreeze mixed w it. Just gave her an oil change & I don't drive her much, should be good till the weather warms up again.... Ty
#13
Jack of All Trades
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Sideseal failure usually means, take motor apart, replace sideseals, check apex seals, and all the lovely rubber seals... OR, vent it well and run it till it pops. then you needs a full rebuild.
#14
I'll try the venting (filtering the neck, any other suggestion?), not drive as hard & pray to the rotary Gods for @ least another yr w/o serious problems. The odds are prob Slim to none by the sound of this... Lol
#15
Yeah, shutup kid.
How many miles are on the motor? The side seals are strong and don't break even under 20psi, the corner seals and back plate crack easily though. Vent the filler neck with a filter(mount it as high as you can, run a hose to it) or catch can and try the seafoam treatment, change the oil and see how it runs. It it doesn't run good or start when hot then check compression and start worrying about a rebuild.
#16
How many miles are on the motor? The side seals are strong and don't break even under 20psi, the corner seals and back plate crack easily though. Vent the filler neck with a filter(mount it as high as you can, run a hose to it) or catch can and try the seafoam treatment, change the oil and see how it runs. It it doesn't run good or start when hot then check compression and start worrying about a rebuild.
Will do the filter, do u agree on blocking the nipple on the plate? (not that I'm doubting any1 just looking for as much info as poss.)
How should I seafoam down carb or gas tank??
Btw the car runs great & hasn't lost a step!. She starts right up everytime cold or hot, not a prob till date...
#17
Yeah, shutup kid.
I think the nipple on the center iron is another vent, so by running a hose between the two you capped off both vents. You can do the seafoam however you want, 1/8 tank of gas pour in the whole bottle, pull a small vacuum line and let it suck in the fluid, or just slowly pour it down the carb. Marvel Mystery Oil is good for the engine too, 1/4-1/2oz per gallon of fuel, and 1/4-1/2quart in the oil will help keep carbon deposits from building up.
#18
Work in Progress
iTrader: (9)
Put a crank case filter on the top nipple and hook the bottom to a vacuum source, preferable with a PVC valve in the middle. Dont cap either one. Search "lung mustard" and you will find lots of info. However this will not solve your crankcase pressure/dipstick popping out.
#21
Put a crank case filter on the top nipple and hook the bottom to a vacuum source, preferable with a PVC valve in the middle. Dont cap either one. Search "lung mustard" and you will find lots of info. However this will not solve your crankcase pressure/dipstick popping out.
#22
as with any engine, the crank case needs ventilation. once all related items involving the rats nest removal, a pcv setup needs to be done to eliminate the chances of condensation forming in the filler neck. there's write ups on this procedure, which should have come up in the "lung mustard" threads. i did it many yrs ago and it completely stopped the condensation i was getting. i actually believe the pcv valve can be left out, cap one of those off and run a hose from the other one to the clean air side of the breather. all that's needed is a very slight vac draw on the crank case. when putting a pcv valve in line with the vac source to the brake booster, it reduces it to such a slight draw u can barely feel it with ur finger. that's why i think running a line to the clean air side of the breather will suffice. but i have yet to try this since using the pcv setup to see if it will actually work. just haven't taken the time to.
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