I premix using 2 stroke. Have been since I had the car. Not sure if that means anything, but all temps seem to read the same.

 

i premix for every full tank

 

This is an interesting observation for sure. First time I've seen it. So what your saying is that we should be premixing a straight 30 wt oil, or something similar. Flash point higher. Or a 2-cycle and a 30wt would cover the entire combustion cycle.

I can tell you from many hours on the track with motors that have no OMP's. We are seeing no premature wear by premixing. Most use a synthetic 2-cycle but others use wal mart brand 2-cycle.

I did enjoy your long post. Very nice.

 

I think that he's saying that it's ok to use the OMP and synthetic oil, rather than
no OMP and pre-mix. Actually, I think that he's saying it's not just ok, but better.

Frank

 

Actually I am not saying to do anything. Im just stating what the facts are, each of us can draw our conclusions. I would love to use 2cycle, but just dont have enough data to tell me that in the long-term it works as well or better.

As far as synthetics, I believe it works just as well as conventional. A lot of the fears about synthetics are about the first versions thirty years ago. The synthetics from companies like Mobil 1 that first came out were notoriously bad. Go download the motor oil bible, it is excellent reading. you can download the full version here for free: http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motoroil.html

 

Where the hell did you see a post that people used motor oil as premix? Please link.

 

i guess it's really to each his/her own

 

Back in the day there was no 2-cycle oil. In outboard motors we used 30wt oil in the gas. Basically that is what the OMP does is use motor oil to lube the motor.

Just noticed that this thread started in 2003 ouch....I think the mods should kill it.

 

I'll post his article again to hopefully clear up some of the mineral vs synthetic misconceptions.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

 

Is there any long-term ill-effects on the fuel injected cars running premix? I mean that is well beyond what the fuel injectors were originally designed to do. Running a little extra can't be a bad thing, but I don't want to do it at the cost of screwing up something with the fuel injection system.

 

i just got some 2 cycle oil the same size as a regular oil container and dumped in a splash when i put in gas on my carbed 13b. also for the OMP removal i just put two short bolts in there with o-rings beneath em. worked fine. block-off plate would have been a better idea but i never had problems doing it this way.

i did once put too much in and was blowing a lot of smoke out the back, luckily i had only about 1/4 tank left and just filled it up which leaned out the 2 cycle.

main reason i did this was because i never trusted the OMP cable attacked to the RB Holley... and less crap in the motor ftw!

 

i used to need to rebuild my dirtbike engine every summer till i switched to amsoil synthetic 2 stroke oil now 5 years later still on the same rebuild


just realized i quoted a 5 year old thread sorry guys

 

For those that commented on the age of the thread, This still seems like a relevant topic, especially with so many of us proudly driving high-mileage rotaries.

It does seem logical to follow Mazda's recommendations, but with so many pre-mixing, I am naturally curious. After more than 300,000 miles on five different rotaries (two 12A's three N/A 13B's, my experience is religious oil changes with mineral-based 20W/50 works best. No carbon deposits, no flooding, rock-solid reliable performance. Its all the stuff around the mill that always seems to break....

 

The age of this thread doesn't matter, it's still relevant.

I'm still not sure how well the GSL-SE's take to being pre-mixed. I can see it on a carb'd car, but it seems like trouble on a fuel injection system.

 

does anyone out there use the Lucas high performance 2 stroke, i have been using this for a few years, it seems to work very well, its a tcw-3, low ash, smokeless and claims to be environmentally friendly. from what I have researched about 2 stroke in a rotary is that a tcw-3, low ash 2stroke oil is the only way to go, roughly 1 oz/gallon is whats been keeping me going. I have also noticed that this oil is smokeless as claimed on the jug ( i mixed to the same ration with some el cheap o stuff and could notice smoke that was not usually there, once back on the lucas it cleared up) i have to special order it in 1 gallon jugs but 1 gallon lasts well long enough for another to arrive!

 

This negates a little thing called technology, things improve since our 1979 to 1985 cars were built, oils are not what they were back then.

 

I purchased a few quarts of Idemitsu Rotary Synthetic Pre Mix. This **** is supposed to be engineered for Wankels.

 

Like locopr1, I'm not suggesting anything, just reporting on what I do and reading about the experience of others

 

Actually, nothing I said "negates a little thing called technology". I simply stated following Mazda's recommendations is logical.

For the record, I use MODERN oil in my vehicles, not oil from thirty years ago.

 

if you do the math your spending about $1 somethin' extra a gallon... damn.

 

That's what I was just thinking...how economical is it to keep buying 2-stroke oil? Buy it buy the caseload? What does it cost (as I have never looked into eliminating the OMP) per bottle, anyway?

Can oil metering pumps be rebuilt to assure they pump accurately and use the RB method to measure (what is it...2cc per min?)

$3.85 per gal. + oil....damn is right.

 

like 8 bucks a litre ish depending on the brand.

Not gonna lie, Probably would have a honda instead of an rx7 if I DD'd it.

 

I have an '86 Honda Trx 250R quad. When I first got it I tried castrol 2 stroke, then bel-ray, basically ran like an old 70's sled. Then my friend/guru told me to try MOTUL. It was totally unbelievable!! the differnce, not only in smell- since Syn. burns nicer, and motul smells like "cherry-flavoured nailpolish remover", but in performance. Once I warmed up to operating temp. I tried a couple yard laps, the engine response was the difference of pulling the wheels off the ground, to damn near flipping *** over teakettle!!

On that note, the better quality of oil, the better the performance: think about it!

 

I was just getting ready to ask if you could use the OMP and a separate reservoir for 2 stroke oil, or MMO. Glad to see other people have gone that way. It seems both safe and convenient to me. I hope I actually get around to doing it.
Tony Hansen - 1980 RX7 LS

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http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/o...ring_pump.html
This site sells the pump that was mentioned above allowing you to use a separate reservoir to fill wit 2 stroke oil to burn in the chamber, as opposed to regular 4 stroke oil from the crankcase, or mixing with your gas.

 

Wait... what? Where are you getting your math from? Autozone special 2 stroke oil, TCW3 for $4.99 a gallon... 128 oz in a gallon, therefor 128 gallons of gas per gallon of oil..

That brings it up to 3.8 cents more a gallon.