This post is for future reference to anyone wanting to know how to port. Also it would be great to compile everyone's techniques they have used when porting.

I just happen to need to know the info as well and saw that when i ran a search...nothing came up. Or am i blind? Anyways on with it...

So i will be pulling my 12A out soon and figured i'd give porting a shot. I was going to just buy the Templates from RB to save me trying to figure out the air flow changes and velocities and all that bull.

Anyone dealt with thes templates before? Are they sufficient..for you? How much more flows with the RB streeport? Also what about the Pineapple racing port templates, any good? Better? Worse?

I am NA btw. =]

I was also going to do some exhaust porting. Since i'll be running a street port on the intake should i go with the race port, for Maximum flow? Or does the street port exhaust suffice?


Also any porting tips? I know you make the ports bigger but do you make them deeper too? I am totally new to porting so ALL advice would be great.

Would my dremel and the carbide bits off RB's site be good enough to port? What kind of fluids do i use to lubricate while i port? What kind of cleanup chemicals should i use?


Thanks guys.

 

And anyone live up in the Reno area that could come by and help me out?

 

I thought the porting gurus would be all over this already. =P

 

i got my templets from robert at Rotary Shack.. they are a good price and pre-cut so you dont mess the templet up trying to cut it out... also www.nopistons.com has lots of porting threads.. not so much here

 

Lol one person. Nice turnout.

 

im actually woundering about porting to so exp 7 if you find anything else cann you post here? maybe we can both figure this out....two heads are better than one you know

 

Actually i found one thing on here...pretty good stuff. I'll post here in a moment.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/noobs-guide-porting-56k-beware-619991/

 

as a novice considering the same i'd like to know as well

 

Your probably gonna want something with more power than a Dremel. And electric or air powered die grinder would be ideal. Especially for the intake ports where you'll have to be grinding cast iron. A die grinder will save time effort and the bits for it are higher quality.
I imagine you could use a Dremel to do some finishing work like with the sanding drums, and to polish the exhaust ports. Don't polish the intake ports, cause a semi rough surface will help with air/fuel atomization.

If I were ever to port a rotary I would probably take my time drawing out my own port design, and looking at pictures or ported engines to get an idea, but thats just me

 

I am in the middle of porting my plates right now with Judge Ito's streetport template (N/A 12A). Its my first time and I have been really nervous, but once you start doing it, you just zone in on what your'e doing

I used an air die-grinder with carbide bits and a dremel with sand rolls to clean up the ports.
I will be leaving the runner the same, just cleaning up the casting flashes.

One good point is that you can feel the thickness of the metal through the water jacket. I ported around the aperture while slowly going down and making the actual bowl bigger.

I am being VERY carful about cutting through, and probably could go farther down, but greed is bad.

One thing I did was use duct tape around the port so that if I slipped I would run across the duct tape and not my freshly lapped housings. (I learned that by experience) Since this has happened to me on one of my plates, I am just going to take a square block of steel and some lapping compound to smooth out any burrs or whatnot.

Again, this is my first time, and I don't expect to nor have I gotten everything right. Just remember to be calm and always STAY FOCUSED. DONT RUSH!!!!!!!!

Ill post pics for you guys as soon as I get back out to the shop this weekend.
Good luck!

 

Looking forward to it! =]

 

definatly get a die grinder and a few carbide tips of varying shapes, wear eye protection and practice on a plate you are not going to use(it will save you destroying a good one), I did my own street port design, and built my own templates, it turned out very well, i had lots of links and docs but lost them all in a recent hard drive crash i have since put some links on my 1st gen group on cardomain.

 

Can someone tell me what the big deal is about JudgeIto's templates? I have seen his name mentioned on quite a few threads.

Mike

 

huge ports.. thats work well. for street ..

buy the mazdatrix porting dvd it aint cheap at 50bucks well worth it.. it will show you all you need to know i watched it and porting looks easey just have to take time..

oh and i wouldnt go deeper at all
quick cap all you are doin is bleending the new scribed port into the exsisting one creating a ramp the rest is just grinding the rough casting to a smooth polished port..

 

Itos ports are the biggest I've seen without bridgeporting and they've been proven to work, so thats why I went with them.

Like blwfly said, don't go deeper than the port already is. just be as smooth as possible when creating the "ramp". Open up the area so that its not just a shallow angle from the stock aperture to your new scribed one. Thats what I meant by going deeper and making the bowl bigger.
Poor choice of words on my part, sorry.

 

I've been wanting to port a engine for years now. Never had the guts to try. I've read several articles about porting but I'm still kinda confused. This is a much needed thread.

I've got a question about the ito port. Can it be used as the basis for a bridgeport? Port its pattern then run the actual brigdeport above it? I dunno if that sounds noobish but I was wondering.

I'm glad you guys brought up the porting video. I didn't know they had one. 50 bucks really aint that bad to have good visual help in learning.

 

How would i go about obtaining an ITO port template?

 

You cannot bridge a true streetport, as the street port takes some of the casting under the corner seal away, whereas the bridgeport leaves the casting just for the corner seal. Turning a streetport into a bridgeport is dangerous because you will not have enough of a contact patch to keep the corner seal in place.

 

PM Judge Ito on Nopistons.com He usually replies pretty fast. His templates are more expensive than the competitions, but from what I understand, better. I still have yet to see personally so I can't truly say either way.
Guess I'll find out soon though!

 

Nicely put Jeezus. Do us noobs a favor and explain the characteristics of a bridgport and the chars of a large streeport if you would?

 

Yea, please do. I always thought a bridgeport was a streetport with the extra bridged port work.

 

the first engine i ported i used a dremel for the whole job. took a while but i thought this would be a good way to learn it since a dremel is not as fast as an air grinder. when i took it apart again to upgrade some more i changed the irons fron S4 to S5 (dowel pin issue...). i then dowel pinned the motor, 1st time and came out perfect, and also did the street port using the air grinder. a friend of mine who has a race only rx3 and has many years porting was impressed by the size of the runners and how even they came out. it took me a whole day to do it since i am so OCD about things. i also did a port match on all manifolds and throttle body. great way to relax also!!!

i used the dremel to finish up and clean the port. i think a dremel with good bits works great cuz you can pay more attention to detail. my $.02 on that!

it is an easy process, just take time and don't take off too much, like they have said, it's all about shaping and blending.

get a junkyard motor and go to town on it!!

 

it is, but they are cut at the same time, and as a result you do not radius the leading edge of the side port, you leave it alone, so that when you cut the bridge section the underlying metal will be thick enough for the bridge.

if you cut jsut a street port, then you would(should) radius the edge of the port there to make it flow better.

so in a nutshell if its already been street ported, the chances are that the edge has been radiused and theirfore is thinner and will crack easier making for a very short lived bridge port (housing wise not seal wise)

if you are truly building this just for racing then after you cut the bridge port you would go back and with a sanding roll massage the leading edge to put small radius to help flow, but this is where the difference between experience (shop) and ametuear begins, the shop will know how much they can safely take of for a race, or a street engine.....

kenn

PS to the original poster, if you actually searched for this subject you must not have searched very friggin hard as its covered in about 6 different sub forums.... and comes up with no less than 10 pages of results if you search the entire forum

 

I love your sig!!! Hahahahahaha