Which plugs in a 1984 GSLSE?
02-08-12, 11:59 AM
#1
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Which plugs in a 1984 GSLSE?
Which plugs in a 1984 GSLSE?
I replaced my plugs with the recommended BR8EQ-14 for both leading and trailing. Now, it's a nightmare to start. If I pull the injection fuse and crank it over, put the fuse back, it will start sometimes. I live on a hill so if I go down the hill and pop the clutch, it starts fine. Both the battery and starter check out fine. It runs fine after it starts and has plenty of power. When it does start, both rotors fire so I don't think there is water in the combustion chamber or it's flooded.
Both ignitors check out fine and I've replaced the rotor and cap.
Should I instead, use the plugs for a 2nd gen 13b which are:
2 x BUR7EQP (Leading)
2 x BUR9EQP (Trailing)
They are definitely different. The BR8EQ-14 plugs look like a regular plug except they have four ground electrodes. The ones above just have a flat surface that surrounds the electrode with a cross shaped cut in the bottom of the plug.
Thank you,
I replaced my plugs with the recommended BR8EQ-14 for both leading and trailing. Now, it's a nightmare to start. If I pull the injection fuse and crank it over, put the fuse back, it will start sometimes. I live on a hill so if I go down the hill and pop the clutch, it starts fine. Both the battery and starter check out fine. It runs fine after it starts and has plenty of power. When it does start, both rotors fire so I don't think there is water in the combustion chamber or it's flooded.
Both ignitors check out fine and I've replaced the rotor and cap.
Should I instead, use the plugs for a 2nd gen 13b which are:
2 x BUR7EQP (Leading)
2 x BUR9EQP (Trailing)
They are definitely different. The BR8EQ-14 plugs look like a regular plug except they have four ground electrodes. The ones above just have a flat surface that surrounds the electrode with a cross shaped cut in the bottom of the plug.
Thank you,
02-14-12, 07:47 AM
#4
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Using four BR8EQ-14 in my GSLSE, no issues.
The previous owner did have the 2ndgen plugs in it when I bought it. Not sure that I noticed a difference going to the BR8EQ-14s at all.
The previous owner did have the 2ndgen plugs in it when I bought it. Not sure that I noticed a difference going to the BR8EQ-14s at all.
02-14-12, 11:30 AM
#6
If the problem started when you swapped out plugs I'd check the obvious. Make sure the wires were put back in the right spots... The tips of the plugs (on the wire side) aren't loose... The boots on the wires aren't coming apart or are snug to the plug and coils... etc... etc...
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02-24-12, 07:44 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Thank you everyone for the replies!
Thank you everyone for the replies! I've kept the 86 style plugs in and when it has issues, I pull the injection fuse, crank it a few seconds and then put the fuse in while cranking. It sputters and fires on both rotors and runs well. I think I fried the starter when the little filter that goes on the intake of the fuel pump got plugged and I had to use the starter to get up my driveway (that was the only way the engine would put out power), yes a stupid thing to do and it didn't have problems until several months later.
Now, it cranks slowly, I've had the battery tested and it's OK. I'm putting in an MSD on the leading and maybe that will help but I've got a spare starter around so I'll probably swap it out since it takes more time to jack up and put in jack stands than the actual swap.
I've seen folks use the 2nd gen leading coil with MSD (not using the ignitor it comes with but a direct connection to the coil). My question, which terminal on the coil is the pos and neg? I guess I could power it up using its ignitor and see what it puts out.
If I point downhill, and pop the clutch, it fires almost immediately.
It's also smelling like it's running rich which seems impossible since I have an enormous '90 3rd converter with two empty pre cats. I assume the air pump and the converter's high temps would burn off any unburned hydrocarbons so maybe it's an exhaust leak in front of the converter.
Oh, one more questions, I hear a BB rattling in a can sound at idle. I think it's either the air pump (most likely) or the water pump which is cheaper to replace and a problem when it fails. Ideas?
Thank you,
Now, it cranks slowly, I've had the battery tested and it's OK. I'm putting in an MSD on the leading and maybe that will help but I've got a spare starter around so I'll probably swap it out since it takes more time to jack up and put in jack stands than the actual swap.
I've seen folks use the 2nd gen leading coil with MSD (not using the ignitor it comes with but a direct connection to the coil). My question, which terminal on the coil is the pos and neg? I guess I could power it up using its ignitor and see what it puts out.
If I point downhill, and pop the clutch, it fires almost immediately.
It's also smelling like it's running rich which seems impossible since I have an enormous '90 3rd converter with two empty pre cats. I assume the air pump and the converter's high temps would burn off any unburned hydrocarbons so maybe it's an exhaust leak in front of the converter.
Oh, one more questions, I hear a BB rattling in a can sound at idle. I think it's either the air pump (most likely) or the water pump which is cheaper to replace and a problem when it fails. Ideas?
Thank you,
02-29-12, 04:26 PM
#11
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
As a sidenote, you've looked at spark and fuel, but are you ignoring air? Before I forget, I also have run ND BR8EQ-14's for the whole life of my SE (215k mi), and they've always worked wonderfully.
When you mention that in order to get it to start, you have to pull the fuel injection fuse. When you do this, it doesn't prevent the fuel pump from running - it prevents the fuel injectors from firing. The fuel pump will still run when the Air Flow Meter door comes open as the engine sucks in air. That pretty much rules out your fuel system as part of the issue.
Exhaust related; you would definitely hear any exhaust leak in front of the converter - it would be so loud that your neighbors would let you know about it. So, probably not exhaust, either.
The reason why I mentioned air was that you might want to check your airpath and be sure the filter is clean, the intake plumbing is snug, and there aren't any vacuum leaks leading to the Throttle Body. When you push start it, the engine spins up faster than the starter would spin it, creating a greater vacuum on startup which may overcome any small vacuum leaks that prevent normal start (did that make sense?).
In my experience, when an SE engine is hard to start, it's either flooded (bad injectors), or a vacuum leak big enough that the AFM door doesn't open, switching on the fuel pump for when the injectors fire.
Have a look, and report back,
When you mention that in order to get it to start, you have to pull the fuel injection fuse. When you do this, it doesn't prevent the fuel pump from running - it prevents the fuel injectors from firing. The fuel pump will still run when the Air Flow Meter door comes open as the engine sucks in air. That pretty much rules out your fuel system as part of the issue.
Exhaust related; you would definitely hear any exhaust leak in front of the converter - it would be so loud that your neighbors would let you know about it. So, probably not exhaust, either.
The reason why I mentioned air was that you might want to check your airpath and be sure the filter is clean, the intake plumbing is snug, and there aren't any vacuum leaks leading to the Throttle Body. When you push start it, the engine spins up faster than the starter would spin it, creating a greater vacuum on startup which may overcome any small vacuum leaks that prevent normal start (did that make sense?).
In my experience, when an SE engine is hard to start, it's either flooded (bad injectors), or a vacuum leak big enough that the AFM door doesn't open, switching on the fuel pump for when the injectors fire.
Have a look, and report back,
03-03-12, 12:16 PM
#12
Full Member
Thread Starter
As a sidenote, you've looked at spark and fuel, but are you ignoring air? Before I forget, I also have run ND BR8EQ-14's for the whole life of my SE (215k mi), and they've always worked wonderfully.
When you mention that in order to get it to start, you have to pull the fuel injection fuse. When you do this, it doesn't prevent the fuel pump from running - it prevents the fuel injectors from firing. The fuel pump will still run when the Air Flow Meter door comes open as the engine sucks in air. That pretty much rules out your fuel system as part of the issue.
Exhaust related; you would definitely hear any exhaust leak in front of the converter - it would be so loud that your neighbors would let you know about it. So, probably not exhaust, either.
The reason why I mentioned air was that you might want to check your airpath and be sure the filter is clean, the intake plumbing is snug, and there aren't any vacuum leaks leading to the Throttle Body. When you push start it, the engine spins up faster than the starter would spin it, creating a greater vacuum on startup which may overcome any small vacuum leaks that prevent normal start (did that make sense?).
In my experience, when an SE engine is hard to start, it's either flooded (bad injectors), or a vacuum leak big enough that the AFM door doesn't open, switching on the fuel pump for when the injectors fire.
Have a look, and report back,
When you mention that in order to get it to start, you have to pull the fuel injection fuse. When you do this, it doesn't prevent the fuel pump from running - it prevents the fuel injectors from firing. The fuel pump will still run when the Air Flow Meter door comes open as the engine sucks in air. That pretty much rules out your fuel system as part of the issue.
Exhaust related; you would definitely hear any exhaust leak in front of the converter - it would be so loud that your neighbors would let you know about it. So, probably not exhaust, either.
The reason why I mentioned air was that you might want to check your airpath and be sure the filter is clean, the intake plumbing is snug, and there aren't any vacuum leaks leading to the Throttle Body. When you push start it, the engine spins up faster than the starter would spin it, creating a greater vacuum on startup which may overcome any small vacuum leaks that prevent normal start (did that make sense?).
In my experience, when an SE engine is hard to start, it's either flooded (bad injectors), or a vacuum leak big enough that the AFM door doesn't open, switching on the fuel pump for when the injectors fire.
Have a look, and report back,
What if it has a bad injector that leaks down when the engine is off? When I crank it, it tries to fire and then nothing. It does sound like it's cranking too slow.
If that were the case though, the other rotor should fire and run cleaning out the flooded one eventually.
I will report back the solution eventually.
03-03-12, 07:50 PM
#13
Go to any local parts store and ask for NGK B9ES. Thats the NGK part number, not the store number. Tell the guy that or he will say theres no such thing. I have used these in every type of set-up you can think of. learned this form a guy who has been building and racing rotaries since the late 70's. There only 2 bucks a piece and are extremely hard to foul out.
If you have the cash, I would run Rx8 plugs. I had them in a TII making close to 300whp on stock ecu, porting, turbo, ect. I also run them in my all motor 12a. They are exspensive, but worth it.
If you have the cash, I would run Rx8 plugs. I had them in a TII making close to 300whp on stock ecu, porting, turbo, ect. I also run them in my all motor 12a. They are exspensive, but worth it.
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