Pics of New Gauges
#1
Pics of New Gauges
The dark pictures didn't come out too well due to my crappy digicam...but you get the idea
I suspected that my oil pressure and water temp gauge were off. I now know for sure that the oil pressure is off, but I don't know about the temp yet (I have to pick up the metric adapter for the sender tomorrow). I will finnish installing the temp sender before I replace the thermostat just for the record, as the thermostat will be here on tuesday.
I suspected that my oil pressure and water temp gauge were off. I now know for sure that the oil pressure is off, but I don't know about the temp yet (I have to pick up the metric adapter for the sender tomorrow). I will finnish installing the temp sender before I replace the thermostat just for the record, as the thermostat will be here on tuesday.
#4
I picked them up at Bumper to Bumper and they were just over $50. They are Equus 8200 (box says III 8200, but not sure if the III has anything to do with it).
I think it is the stock alternator, I thought that 14v was normal when charging....??
Eidt: oops, forgot to edit the danglie pic
I think it is the stock alternator, I thought that 14v was normal when charging....??
Eidt: oops, forgot to edit the danglie pic
#6
I get the feeling that either the fuel gauge or sender is on its way out...on a full tank it reads 3/4. I want to run it out of gas and see how many miles I can get out of it, but don't want to break anything. Before I filled it the other day the tank was on the E line and I had 253 miles on that tank
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#8
Originally Posted by Rotary Weasel
yup the fuel gauges go on the 1st gen 7's no doubt..pesky sender unit..but my low fuel light works like a champ..so I haven't been in a hurry to fix it
#9
my alternator shows 12V.
when I hit the blinker
10-12-10-12-10-12-10
brakes with blinker on 9V
Breaks with blinker in reverse lights and headlights on 8V
is that bad. is there an alternator I can get that puts out 14V
when I hit the blinker
10-12-10-12-10-12-10
brakes with blinker on 9V
Breaks with blinker in reverse lights and headlights on 8V
is that bad. is there an alternator I can get that puts out 14V
#15
Originally Posted by Nicholas P.
14v!!!!
what kind of alternator do you have!!!!!!
btw. nice picture on the winshield wiper switch
what kind of alternator do you have!!!!!!
btw. nice picture on the winshield wiper switch
#16
Originally Posted by Nicholas P.
my alternator shows 12V.
when I hit the blinker
10-12-10-12-10-12-10
brakes with blinker on 9V
Breaks with blinker in reverse lights and headlights on 8V
is that bad. is there an alternator I can get that puts out 14V
when I hit the blinker
10-12-10-12-10-12-10
brakes with blinker on 9V
Breaks with blinker in reverse lights and headlights on 8V
is that bad. is there an alternator I can get that puts out 14V
either one is no big deal to replace
#17
I used electrical gauges, and they aren't very accurate. My fuel pressure gauge reads 8psi, but I checked it with a mechaincal gauge and it reads 6psi. But I didn't want to run fluids into the inside of the car...isn't that what you have to do for mechanical gauges?
By the way, you can adjust the oil pressure gauge:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=oil+pressure
Rich
By the way, you can adjust the oil pressure gauge:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=oil+pressure
Rich
#18
My alternator reads 14 volts as soon as it starts. My multimeter reads it at 14.6 consistant. When the system is hitting hard it only drops to 12.2 at the most. I'm running a secound gen 80 amp alternator too. If your alternator is only running 12 volts its on its way out, change it soon before some thing fries or you get stranded. Oh, love the gauges!!!
#22
Well I just finnished hooking up the temp sensor, was kindof a bitch at first but once I removed the alternator, things went smoothly.
I was pretty sure that I was going to have to buy an adapter for this kit but it came with one that fit in the water pump housing. I did a little searching and used sterling's method. I removed the thermosensor on the back of the water pump housing just beneath the alternator and screwed in the adaptor with some thread tape and then threaded in the mechanical thermosender. Im going to ground the choke thermowirethingiesondaclip so the choke will have a stiffie all the time.
The nice thing about this method is that I will be able to see how accurate the stock gauges are, well in theory anyways. My motor has been running between the 1/2 and 3/4 mark on the stock gauges lately. I guess its always good to have a second opinion.
I was pretty sure that I was going to have to buy an adapter for this kit but it came with one that fit in the water pump housing. I did a little searching and used sterling's method. I removed the thermosensor on the back of the water pump housing just beneath the alternator and screwed in the adaptor with some thread tape and then threaded in the mechanical thermosender. Im going to ground the choke thermowirethingiesondaclip so the choke will have a stiffie all the time.
The nice thing about this method is that I will be able to see how accurate the stock gauges are, well in theory anyways. My motor has been running between the 1/2 and 3/4 mark on the stock gauges lately. I guess its always good to have a second opinion.
#25
Originally Posted by riceburner1r2001
how r u getting 14v is that good and do u get that with a good alt and good battery