This looks really good. I'm adding 90 FI to my 90 13b street port this summer. It's carbed now with a mechanical OMP so I am using a Haltech F10 for my ECU.

 

This is awesome! I remember when you first started with a post asking what you'd need, and I was shaking my head at the wiring insanity ahead of you - but you really took charge and forged ahead. Now instead of giving advice I'm learning from you (as I might do this swap still)!

Good luck when you hit the test & tune phase of your project - and keep us posted.

And more good luck on becoming a Mazda Mechanic! Soon you'll have your fingers into RX-8s...

 

If your going carb, why do you need an ECU?

 

Yeah nno porting or anything. I'm thinking of mabey doing something like that for a turbo project somewhere donw the road.

About the tranny mount, it feels VERY sturdy, but I would like a better long term solution, does anybody have anyother ideas that I could use for the life of my car?

 

I'm switching FROM the carb. It's a Weber 48IDA. It lurches until it's warm, at steady state rpms it softly stumbles, it backfires (LOUD) if I abruptly go from full throttle to no throttle, sometimes it backfires when I first start it cold and it's just not as civilized as a stock setup. It's fast as hell but I'd like something more liveable for everyday.

 

Hey, my first double post!

 

ah, that makes sence. I should have read your post better. I only have had three days with using a carb, and that was more than enough for me.

It gets too cold and wet here in the mornings.

 

Good job! I know how much work it is to do this swap. Did you look at my web site at all? You'll see that I went thourgh the same thing. Now I'm Ripping all the wireing out to put in a Haltech E6K I just hade too much trouble with the old harness. But I hope you have better luck

P.S. Why is the FC oil cooler "a pain in the ***"?

 

Actually your website helped ALOT with the wiring. It gave me an idea of what I should come up with before and after.

About the oil cooler, for those of you who dont know my gigantic headache about this, heres the short version:

There is no way to mount the FC oil cooler using the stock lines if you keep a/c in your car. In an 84-85 car anyway.

There are other places to mount it, but they all require longer lines. And custom oil cooler lines cost $$$. Thats why the FC cooler is a pain in the ***.

Paul, you had a GSL-SE to begin with, and in turn you allready had the SE cooler, which would work fine but they are really hard to find.

But out of all the info I gathered, you had the most info I was looking for in one place, paul. Especially that wiring!

 

How are you activating your Auxilliary Ports? This Is my setup, entitled Fully Blown Electric Auxilliary Port Setup. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...xilliary+ports

 

My aux ports are currently not functional because of the s5upper/s4lower manifold combo. I'm going to swap on a s5 lower manifold as soon as I pass emissions so my aux ports work correctly.

Now since you have done this, I have a quick question for you.

How good is this setup for long distance driving? I'm going to be going to california this summer, so my aux ports would be open for hours at a time.

I'm going to have to have electric aux ports if I want to remove the air pump, because thats how they work on the s5, instead of exaust back pressure on the s4.

 

Thanks But to let you know a little secret, I started with a 12A GSL I had oil lines made at a hose shop near me for about $65. Plus $30 for the RB fittings.

 

I may very well do that.

Now heres a question which is probably the last thing bugging me? How did you mount your trailing coil/ignitor?

The leading one was pretty easy to mount. But there just isnt enough room for the trailing one! I looked thorugh all the pics on your site, and while I could see the leading coil on the wheel well like it's supposed to be, all the pics cut off before you can see the trailing coil.

 

Hornbm, great job! Couple of questions.

Did you just break down and put the FC cooler in with longer lines? I was going to suggest using an SE cooler cause you already have the mounts and it would be a drop in--but the SE coolers are harder to get.

I'm also interested in where you mounted the ignitor coils. I'm doing a TII conversion and have the same issue. Looks like the relays near the brake master will need to move a little and the metal flap they mount to will need to be cut off. Please show us some pics of what you did.

So how did you wire in the AC idle compensation? The 88 TII ecu actually sends the signal to turn on the AC, so I assume it also compensates the fuel/air to maintain idle. On the SE the Air Con Solenoid Valve performs this function. Since I didn't want to dig into the AC wiring that much, I wired the SE power steering switch and A/C #2 relay into the 88 TII ASV (Air Supply Valve). I think it will work but haven't actually tried it yet.

Thanks for the help and good luck getting up and running.

Scott

 

Here is a picture of what I did. Just used some sheet medal screws to fasten them to the fender.