Pic request - Racing beat front lowering kit (the NLA cut the strut tower one)
02-08-12, 08:41 AM
#1
Pic request - Racing beat front lowering kit (the NLA cut the strut tower one)
Like the title says, Just looking for someone with this kit too post a few pics of it. They discontinued it a few years back and I can't seem to find any good pics or info on it. If i remember right it was a fairly simple setup and I'm thinking of trying to fab up my own to use in combination with my FC subframe swap, to get more shock travel. Any pics/info is appreciated.
Thanks!
Sean
Thanks!
Sean
02-08-12, 09:17 AM
#2
Found this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/just-finished-racing-beat-lowering-kit-pics-249032/
Has a few good pics to go off of...
Has a few good pics to go off of...
02-08-12, 12:02 PM
#4
I MAY have the paperwork that came with mine back in the day. When I get home I will check and see. I do have the box they came in, just not sure the paperwork is still in the box. BTW, I love mine, it is imho the best way to lower you car. Roll center is soooo important and with this mod you can lower it w/o screwing that up.
02-08-12, 01:56 PM
#5
^Thanks for the pics, that would be awesome if you had the paperwork too! Looks like it's definatly something I could fab up. Looks like 1/8" steel, is that about right? Also, does it move the whole assembly straight up or did they offset the holes a bit to gain more camber/caster as well?
02-08-12, 02:31 PM
#6
They did not move the holes, they are centered where the old holes were just raised straight up,(by the same distance as the roll center spacers that came with the kit), but I see no reason that the location of the holes could not be tweaked to meet your needs. .
Also, I have seen pics of a build on the forum where someone fabbed their own out of sheet metal and welded them in place, if you could find that it would be very informative.
Also, I have seen pics of a build on the forum where someone fabbed their own out of sheet metal and welded them in place, if you could find that it would be very informative.
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02-12-12, 11:19 AM
#8
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I saw in one thread where the person put spacers on each of the four studs, then bolt a sheet of steel to it to get the height equal. Looked like something anyone with some welding ability and mechanical inclination could pull off fairly easily. Roll center adjusters are still available from RE-Speed and TechnoToyTuning so it wouldn't be too difficult. If I had a welder it would be on my list of things to do, but I don't, so it ain't.
02-12-12, 12:50 PM
#9
^thats pretty much how I would go about it, then just cut the old tower off from underneath (would be a pain, but the easiest way to ensure it was placed correctly)
HadaGSL-SE - if you could post some detailed pics and measurements that would be awesome!
HadaGSL-SE - if you could post some detailed pics and measurements that would be awesome!
02-12-12, 02:15 PM
#10
Here is how I made mine
I made the tops and then bolted them in place using the factory strut holes.
I cut and formed the sides and then hammered them into shape as I welded them on
Finished product
Later I used a plasma cutter to remove the OE strut top and then welded studs in place to mount the caster camber plates. Here it is all painted
I made the tops and then bolted them in place using the factory strut holes.
I cut and formed the sides and then hammered them into shape as I welded them on
Finished product
Later I used a plasma cutter to remove the OE strut top and then welded studs in place to mount the caster camber plates. Here it is all painted
02-13-12, 12:45 PM
#13
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do this!
02-13-12, 10:50 PM
#15
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pic is a volvo....
02-14-12, 01:52 PM
#16
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i did some structural analysis, and the camber plate actually adds a lot of strength, so it may be better to do strut top with a camber plate.
thickness of the steel for the strut top makes very little difference in strength, also the lip around the edge of the center hole makes very little difference.
the size of the center hole does matter, so the hole for a camber plate slider is stronger than a normal strut top, but by far the size of the camber plate/strut top makes the biggest difference
i tested @5000lbs load, so you can drop the whole car on top of another car and land on one wheel.... so its about what Peejay does on his ride to work.... or maybe hitting a bump @1g cornering....
thickness of the steel for the strut top makes very little difference in strength, also the lip around the edge of the center hole makes very little difference.
the size of the center hole does matter, so the hole for a camber plate slider is stronger than a normal strut top, but by far the size of the camber plate/strut top makes the biggest difference
i tested @5000lbs load, so you can drop the whole car on top of another car and land on one wheel.... so its about what Peejay does on his ride to work.... or maybe hitting a bump @1g cornering....
02-15-12, 07:10 PM
#22
Just wanted to clarify the roll center is changed even with the RB strut extenders. The true purpose is simply to lower the vehicle without shortening the shock travel.
When we lower a McPherson strut vehicle using coil overs you are effectively shortening the distance from the top strut mount to the lower strut mount by moving the spring perch down. Given this is the only change you make the strut shaft is now statically sitting at a lower spot in the strut cartridge. This reduces the amount of bump suspension travel you have available.
This is why many racers modify the housings to accept shorter strut cartridges rendering more favorable bump travel. (There are other reasons as well)
The RB strut extenders move the upper strut mount up to lower the vehicle without shortening the length mentioned above.
Either way you will adjust the roll center of the vehicle since the roll center is derived from the angle of the lower control arm on a McPherson strut car. The inner control arm pickup is tied to the crossmember that will be sitting lower than before. The outer pickup will remain in the same place (since the tire diameter has not changed). This changes the angle of the lower control arm and therefore the roll center.
-billy
When we lower a McPherson strut vehicle using coil overs you are effectively shortening the distance from the top strut mount to the lower strut mount by moving the spring perch down. Given this is the only change you make the strut shaft is now statically sitting at a lower spot in the strut cartridge. This reduces the amount of bump suspension travel you have available.
This is why many racers modify the housings to accept shorter strut cartridges rendering more favorable bump travel. (There are other reasons as well)
The RB strut extenders move the upper strut mount up to lower the vehicle without shortening the length mentioned above.
Either way you will adjust the roll center of the vehicle since the roll center is derived from the angle of the lower control arm on a McPherson strut car. The inner control arm pickup is tied to the crossmember that will be sitting lower than before. The outer pickup will remain in the same place (since the tire diameter has not changed). This changes the angle of the lower control arm and therefore the roll center.
-billy
