Oversteer Control
#1
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Oversteer Control
Hi all...just finished the replacement of the rear bushings (rubber), front sway bar (to a Racing Beat), front bushings (used included RB poly bushings and changed others to new rubber) and tension bar bushings. Already had replaced shocks to Tokia adjustables and Eibach shocks. Ride is great...except I experience oversteer a bit often. I have the shocks set at three all around and the tire pressure is to recomendations.
Other than taking it slow around corners (no fun!), any suggestions? Stiffen up the rear and loosen up the front shocks? More tire pressure in the rear and less in the front?
Thanks for the advice!
SB
Other than taking it slow around corners (no fun!), any suggestions? Stiffen up the rear and loosen up the front shocks? More tire pressure in the rear and less in the front?
Thanks for the advice!
SB
#2
Airflow is my life
Please tell me you didnt put poly bushings in the rear. Dont do anything to stiffen the rear, thats what will make the car oversteer. You got it backwards. You soften the end of the car that isint sticking, or stiffen the end that is.
#3
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nope...rubber in the back...
and I guess I thought we were saying the same thing...The rear end swings around when I turn...the front seems to hold the line fine...Isn't that oversteer?
and I guess I thought we were saying the same thing...The rear end swings around when I turn...the front seems to hold the line fine...Isn't that oversteer?
#4
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Yup thats oversteer.
You want the front shocks stiffer than the rears. I keep mine set 4 at the front and 3 at the rear for daily driving. when it gets slick (rain) I set the rear to 2.
It has just the perfect balance between at the limit oversteer and light understeer at lower speeds. I love it, can really rock the corners.
You want the front shocks stiffer than the rears. I keep mine set 4 at the front and 3 at the rear for daily driving. when it gets slick (rain) I set the rear to 2.
It has just the perfect balance between at the limit oversteer and light understeer at lower speeds. I love it, can really rock the corners.
#5
Airflow is my life
Originally posted by sberge01
nope...rubber in the back...
and I guess I thought we were saying the same thing...The rear end swings around when I turn...the front seems to hold the line fine...Isn't that oversteer?
nope...rubber in the back...
and I guess I thought we were saying the same thing...The rear end swings around when I turn...the front seems to hold the line fine...Isn't that oversteer?
#6
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Re: Oversteer Control
Originally posted by sberge01
I have the shocks set at three all around and the tire pressure is to recomendations.
I have the shocks set at three all around and the tire pressure is to recomendations.
#7
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When I first got my shocks and springs, I didnt have anywhere to do my fromt struts so Ijust did the rears. Holy **** was that scary!!!! I set the rear ones to 5 (as stiff as they go) driving in a straight line if i turned the steering wheel even a little sharpley the rear end wanted to snap around on me. Was really fun for drifting though....
Ohh by the way, I dont know if anyone cares, but my name is Micah. feel free to call me by my name
Ohh by the way, I dont know if anyone cares, but my name is Micah. feel free to call me by my name
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#9
I read your email
Try playing around with your tire pressure. The 1st Gen is VERY sensitive to tire pressures. I had similar oversteer problems untill I lowered the pressure in my rear tires. That's all it took to tame the beast. Give it a try it might work for you.
#12
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seems to be under control now...front shocks at 4 rear at 3; front tire pressure at 28 rear at 30. Handled great. Now on to my alternator problem...but that is another story for this money pit...i mean hobby!
#14
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Another thought if the other items don't work is to disconnect / remove your rear sway bar. This is a bit more drastic than the other items mentioned, but will certainly reduce oversteer.
Along these lines, different year 1st gens have different rear bars. I have three different ones I've collected: 15mm, 17mm, and 18mm. You could try also going to a smaller bar if you have one of the larger ones.
Along these lines, different year 1st gens have different rear bars. I have three different ones I've collected: 15mm, 17mm, and 18mm. You could try also going to a smaller bar if you have one of the larger ones.
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as 31rx7 said, you dont need rear sway bar at all. alot of people think that it will drastically change your handling, etc, etc. not true at all. removing the rear sway completely will help alot in lessening oversteer.
#18
Old [Sch|F]ool
Originally posted by Rx7carl
Yea inittab makes a good point. Lowering your rear tire pressures is a way to soften the rear axle and youll get more rear bite, just dont go too low.
Yea inittab makes a good point. Lowering your rear tire pressures is a way to soften the rear axle and youll get more rear bite, just dont go too low.
I know that with 50 front and 20 rear (stock sire size) the car will be an oversteering *bitch*.
With 205/60-13s on stock rims, I had good success with 24-22psi in the front at 20 rear. Higher pressure than that would cause horrific center tread wear because the tires are simply too large for stock rims. With stock size tires I normally ran 44/40, or 40/35, couldn't really tell the difference between either setting.
#19
Old [Sch|F]ool
Originally posted by voodooracing
31rx7,
which year/model 1st gens comes with 15mm? and which is 17mm, 18mm?
31rx7,
which year/model 1st gens comes with 15mm? and which is 17mm, 18mm?
I personally like the 18mm bar. I feel rear stiffness is a Good Thing to keep the rear suspension from moving around too much. Past a certain lean angle, the 4-link binds up and then you have snap oversteer. Drilling holes in the upper link bushings is supposed to help (haven't tried yet) but the real solution is to throw away the upper arms and convert to a 3-link, which also requires throwing away the Watts and getting a Panhard rod. The Panhard generally lowers your rear roll center, making handling much more predictable, but this reduces the rear roll stiffness meaning you need some *strong* rear springs and/or a fat rear sway.
With the 15mm bar, I find that I have to brake too deep into the corners to keep the car from plowing like Farmer John. It's a driver preference.
#21
Blood, Sweat and Rotors
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Drilling holes in upper rear link bushings causes torsional windup. Not good. Putting new factory soft rubber bushings in the rear links and Watts is a good idea. Stockers that are in there now are dried and hard = stiffer = more oversteer in 1st gen.
Ditch the rear sway bar and run rear tire pressures 2 lbs higher than front.
Brad
Ditch the rear sway bar and run rear tire pressures 2 lbs higher than front.
Brad
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