Overheating SE, how to proceed?
08-15-13, 12:23 PM
#26
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I was afraid to hear that...Is there a significant quality difference between an oem fan clutch, and one you'd get at AdvanceAuto type of place? 'Cause I didn't get the uber expensive oem one. I don't think my fan clutch is the source of my overheating, it seemed to operate as it should, and never ran hot or overheated in traffic or idling...
08-15-13, 11:49 PM
#27
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waterpump woes
FINALLY got my waterpump and thermostat today, got back to my car to install them, but I'm CONFUSED. I took the nuts and bolts off the waterpump, JUST the ones that actually go through the pump(I left the one nut/bolt? that has the bracket with the omp lines running through it). When I started pulling around on the pump to try to remove it, the whole damn thing it's connected to(water pump housing?) was moving too! wtf?!? Does the backside of this pc. (where it mates to the front of engine) have to be sealed as well? Cause it sure isn't anymore if it was before. I banged with a rubber mallet and pulled the pump off the studs, and kept my eyes open for the mysterious "shims" that were supposed to be behind it. There weren't any! wtf?!? My Haynes and FSM didn't cover this confusion, they made it seem like just the waterpump pulled off, and there's supposed to be two shims on bolts 2 and 4, but there weren't! What the hell am I missing?
08-16-13, 08:18 AM
#28
This might help to understand how the water pump housing and water pump are mounted. The long studs in the picture attach the housing and pump. The extra shim/spacer goes on the far left stud BEFORE the housing is put on. When installing a new pump, I always take the housing off also and use a new engine to housing gasket. You can get away with using the old one if it is good but they are so check. You can even make your own. I also use a small amount of sealant on each side of the gasket. No much, just enough to keep it in place and make a good seal.
I should also mention that you don't need to torque the nuts/bolts down too much. I've broken bolts on the housing before.
I should also mention that you don't need to torque the nuts/bolts down too much. I've broken bolts on the housing before.
08-16-13, 11:29 AM
#29
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The stoopid Haynes and fsm just talk about "take these bolts/nuts off and remove the pump..."even the pictures they show, show only the damn pump, not the pump connected to the housing. Neither one made any mention of the housing and pump coming out together...I guess they just refer to the whole assembly as the "water pump"? They also say about the shims being "behind the pump", not behind the damn housing. Anyway...So I need the gasket that looks like back to back "D"'s? And so I will have to further disassemble to remove housing, too and then clean and reassemble? Thanks.
08-17-13, 12:58 PM
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omp lines?
Well, got back to my car....AGAIN. Trying to remove the wp housing, omp lines are DEFINATELY in the way. There is NO way the housing is going to pull forward the whole way off the studs with the four omp lines where they are. How the hell do you remove them from the omp? There's little metal clamps? that kinda look like flattened wing nuts on the end of the line. They twist on the line, but won't pull off. Of course this is ANOTHER thing completely unmentioned in the Haynes and FSM about wp removal. Are you telling me you have to actually unbolt all the lines from the opm? And let me guess, there's crush washers in there that will need to be replaced...And let me guess, It's going to take me another damn week or two just to find/get these crush washers. I tried and tried to have everything I'd need to replace the wp BEFORE I started, as usual EPIC FAIL. It shouldn't take four damn weeks to replace your wp...
08-17-13, 06:03 PM
#32
I've never removed the OMP lines from a 13B. Not sure if it's easier to remove the OMP itself or the lines from the engine side.
With all the new experience you're learning, it sound like an opportunity for someone new to crate a good How-To for the sticky section. Take lots of picture and document well. And have fun.
With all the new experience you're learning, it sound like an opportunity for someone new to crate a good How-To for the sticky section. Take lots of picture and document well. And have fun.
08-17-13, 08:32 PM
#33
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I ended up unbolting each line from the omp. There's a copper plate behind the lines with five holes in it, like a 5 on a dice. Then there's copper crush washers on the other side the line fittings up against the bolt heads. #1: Is it ok to reuse the crush washers? Haven't they allready been "crushed"? What's the recommended torque for the bolts on the omp lines?
Still want to know about the lower rad hose...#2: Is there supposed to be an anti-collapse spring inside of it? Is there possiblity of it collapsing under heavy load?
#3: Also, should I reuse my yoohoo belt, or use a gutted(of the fiberglass reeds) air pump and belt?
Still want to know about the lower rad hose...#2: Is there supposed to be an anti-collapse spring inside of it? Is there possiblity of it collapsing under heavy load?
#3: Also, should I reuse my yoohoo belt, or use a gutted(of the fiberglass reeds) air pump and belt?
08-19-13, 07:45 AM
#34
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I bought new radiator hoses and they didn't have any spring inside, nor did the one that came off. I have no cooling issues.
I'd try to re-use the belt. What's the worse that can happen? It will squeal and you'll have to put a new one on.
I think new crush washers are the way to go. I've re-used crush washers before, but for me it depends on how hard they are to get to and replace if they don't seal up well. Also, it depends on if you can get a little extra torque on them if need be.
I'd try to re-use the belt. What's the worse that can happen? It will squeal and you'll have to put a new one on.
I think new crush washers are the way to go. I've re-used crush washers before, but for me it depends on how hard they are to get to and replace if they don't seal up well. Also, it depends on if you can get a little extra torque on them if need be.
08-19-13, 07:26 PM
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I bought new radiator hoses and they didn't have any spring inside, nor did the one that came off. I have no cooling issues.
I'd try to re-use the belt. What's the worse that can happen? It will squeal and you'll have to put a new one on.
I think new crush washers are the way to go. I've re-used crush washers before, but for me it depends on how hard they are to get to and replace if they don't seal up well. Also, it depends on if you can get a little extra torque on them if need be.
I'd try to re-use the belt. What's the worse that can happen? It will squeal and you'll have to put a new one on.
I think new crush washers are the way to go. I've re-used crush washers before, but for me it depends on how hard they are to get to and replace if they don't seal up well. Also, it depends on if you can get a little extra torque on them if need be.
08-19-13, 07:29 PM
#36
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Got my last gasket today, got the pump and housing back on...Started putting all the other stuff back on, then snapped off one of the bolts to the E-shaft pulley...Yay me. Also pulled off that pulley without marking where the timing marks are...Yay me. So how do I go aboot putting the pulley with timing marks back on right?
08-19-13, 08:38 PM
#37
Whatever you do, do not spin the motor or remove the distributor. Maybe a little investigation will help. You might be able to inspect the pulley and eccentric hub and see any distinguishing marks on how they might have fit together. If you look at the picture I posted earlier in this post, mine has a locating rivet. The later model didn't have this. My rotating assembly is from a 1982.
As you have found out, those bolt don't need much torque.
As you have found out, those bolt don't need much torque.
08-19-13, 09:15 PM
#38
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Thanks for the quick reply. I've allready spun the motor ALOT. I scoured over the hub looking for any marks to associate with the timing marks on the pulley, and can find none.
08-19-13, 10:00 PM
#40
Since you can't find a mark and the car runs right now, no harm has been done. If you want to mark the pulley, follow this thread to find TDC. You can then put a mark on the pulley where the pointer is. I mark mine by using a triangle file and making a small grove and then painting it. Do not remove the distributor until you mark the pulley. There a lot of extra stuff in the thread but you'll find what you need.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...hread-1043628/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...hread-1043628/
08-20-13, 10:58 AM
#41
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It's the hard way or the highway...apparently. So I might be able to use visual cues from the flywheel to put my pulley back on correctly? I'm not where my car is today, how is this done with a SE? Is there some kind of inspection port or plate to remove? I'm hopefull you don't have to pull the tranny to use this method, but that would be the hard way, right?
08-21-13, 10:38 AM
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It's the hard way or the highway...apparently. So I might be able to use visual cues from the flywheel to put my pulley back on correctly? I'm not where my car is today, how is this done with a SE? Is there some kind of inspection port or plate to remove? I'm hopefull you don't have to pull the tranny to use this method, but that would be the hard way, right?
08-21-13, 12:29 PM
#43
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Timing is easy if it is a stock motor. Key is finding TDC. There is an inspection cover that allows you to see the flywheel. The flywheel has an area on it that is flat. Line this flat cut out up on the intake manifold. You will be close to Tdc. Look at the pulley, it should have two marks. Line up the yellow mark on the pin. If there are no marks at all, you will have to remove the 4 bolts and rotate the pulley 45 degrees at a time until you see those marks. Once there, line up the dot on the bottom of the distibutor gear with the reference mark on the distributor housing. Install the distributor, line up the stator with the pick up and you should be fine. Tighten lock nut, start engine.
08-21-13, 01:03 PM
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It's the hard way or the highway...apparently. So I might be able to use visual cues from the flywheel to put my pulley back on correctly? I'm not where my car is today, how is this done with a SE? Is there some kind of inspection port or plate to remove? I'm hopefull you don't have to pull the tranny to use this method, but that would be the hard way, right?
so you could just bolt the pulley on, start it, and see where the timing marks are. turn the engine off, move the pulley, and repeat until its correct. you have a 1/4 chance of getting it right the first time, and a 2/4 chance its either right, or 180 degrees off, which is the easiest to fix.
the other two ways are 90 degrees off, and then you would be subject to murphys law, as you'd have to turn it the right direction... which is something i'd screw up too
08-21-13, 03:53 PM
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Timing is easy if it is a stock motor. Key is finding TDC. There is an inspection cover that allows you to see the flywheel. The flywheel has an area on it that is flat. Line this flat cut out up on the intake manifold. You will be close to Tdc. Look at the pulley, it should have two marks. Line up the yellow mark on the pin. If there are no marks at all, you will have to remove the 4 bolts and rotate the pulley 45 degrees at a time until you see those marks. Once there, line up the dot on the bottom of the distibutor gear with the reference mark on the distributor housing. Install the distributor, line up the stator with the pick up and you should be fine. Tighten lock nut, start engine.
08-22-13, 06:54 AM
#46
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If your standing on the drivers side looking at the motor, the inspection cover is on the other side of the oil filter between the intake manifold and the firewall, near the clutch slave cylinder. It's a flat piece of thin stamped sheet metal that covers an opening in the bell housing of the transmission. Mine has a transducer grounded to one of the screws holding it together. I don't have my car with me right now, so all that's from memory. I hope that helps.
I have a question regarding the timing and andernamans post about lining up the pulley. If there are two marks and one is yellow, what do you do if the marks have long lost any coloring to them? If you laid the pulley on the ground in front of you with the front face facing up and the two marks towards the top of the pulley, which mark should be the yellow one? The one to left, or the right?
I ask because I know my timing marks have no color to them (that I can tell) and have always thought this would be a problem, and this would be good place to have the info. I don't mean to hijack your thread, sevens4me. Maybe it will help you too.
I have a question regarding the timing and andernamans post about lining up the pulley. If there are two marks and one is yellow, what do you do if the marks have long lost any coloring to them? If you laid the pulley on the ground in front of you with the front face facing up and the two marks towards the top of the pulley, which mark should be the yellow one? The one to left, or the right?
I ask because I know my timing marks have no color to them (that I can tell) and have always thought this would be a problem, and this would be good place to have the info. I don't mean to hijack your thread, sevens4me. Maybe it will help you too.
08-22-13, 04:06 PM
#47
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If your standing on the drivers side looking at the motor, the inspection cover is on the other side of the oil filter between the intake manifold and the firewall, near the clutch slave cylinder. It's a flat piece of thin stamped sheet metal that covers an opening in the bell housing of the transmission. Mine has a transducer grounded to one of the screws holding it together. I don't have my car with me right now, so all that's from memory. I hope that helps.
I have a question regarding the timing and andernamans post about lining up the pulley. If there are two marks and one is yellow, what do you do if the marks have long lost any coloring to them? If you laid the pulley on the ground in front of you with the front face facing up and the two marks towards the top of the pulley, which mark should be the yellow one? The one to left, or the right?
I ask because I know my timing marks have no color to them (that I can tell) and have always thought this would be a problem, and this would be good place to have the info. I don't mean to hijack your thread, sevens4me. Maybe it will help you too.
I have a question regarding the timing and andernamans post about lining up the pulley. If there are two marks and one is yellow, what do you do if the marks have long lost any coloring to them? If you laid the pulley on the ground in front of you with the front face facing up and the two marks towards the top of the pulley, which mark should be the yellow one? The one to left, or the right?
I ask because I know my timing marks have no color to them (that I can tell) and have always thought this would be a problem, and this would be good place to have the info. I don't mean to hijack your thread, sevens4me. Maybe it will help you too.
08-22-13, 04:12 PM
#48
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Timing is easy if it is a stock motor. Key is finding TDC. There is an inspection cover that allows you to see the flywheel. The flywheel has an area on it that is flat. Line this flat cut out up on the intake manifold. You will be close to Tdc. Look at the pulley, it should have two marks. Line up the yellow mark on the pin. If there are no marks at all, you will have to remove the 4 bolts and rotate the pulley 45 degrees at a time until you see those marks. Once there, line up the dot on the bottom of the distibutor gear with the reference mark on the distributor housing. Install the distributor, line up the stator with the pick up and you should be fine. Tighten lock nut, start engine.