Overheating
#1
Overheating
I have a 80 with a 13B 4 port that has a extended port. The engine has about 1000 miles since the rebuild. My water temp gets to 210 deg. I live in Las Vegas and temp here is around 108 deg or so. Should my water temp be that high? I have a e-fan, new radiator, new mazda t-stat and even bought a 160 deg t-stat with no lower temps. Any suggestions? Also have the under tray installed. How do I test the water pump? Thanks...
Last edited by gonzz; 08-01-04 at 08:34 PM.
#2
how about checking the accuracy of the temp sender, I have a temperature plate sticker on my radiator, the temp plater recorder has a series of dots that change colour when a certain temperature is reached, i had a similar problem, according to the guage, it was running hot on long runs, (not into the red but enough to worry me) so i put a temp recorder on it and found the temp was spot on, and the problem proved to be an earth leak going back through the temp sender wire, and causing it to over read! with an e-fan, new radiator and new thermostats, thats the next thing i would check.
#4
On the highway the temp comes down 5 deg. Will take it out tonight and get some readings. I installed autometer gauges so I think it should be acurate. I have a S5 cluster installed in my 1st gen that reads halfway. Could my front spoiler be cutting off airflow?
#5
Went out for a cruise tonight local temp was 97 deg. I let the car idle in the driveway for 20 minutes and water temp was around 170 deg. Took it out on the freeway cruising around 70 and temp was 210 deg. Stopped at a friends shop for 1-2hrs then started driving home. It started to down pour with rain here and I noticed a big change in water temp. Driving all the way home water temp was at 180 deg. Once the rain stopped water temp climbed to 195 or so. What do you guys think? Do I need a pusher fan in the front of my radiator? I have a puller installed on the eng side.. The rain lowered my temps to normal.. Don't understand this...
#6
i would try it again take off the front spoiler to see if it makes a difference! if rain water is helping cool the temp, then it sounds like its not getting enough airflow through the core, i would check it without the front spoiler and see what happens (if the spoiler is easily removable)
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#8
Water is a better transfer agent than air. Its artificially lowering your temps. That tells me that your cooling system is too small or in efficient/ in adequate. New rad? well then hows the ducting/rad shrouds? They are very important to forcing air thru the rad rather than around it. Is your lower tray still there? (never mind, I re read your initial post) The fan is moot since its getting hot at highway speeds (unless its causing some kind of restriction). Wut fan do you have? Engine bay pics? You got a new engine but are using an old pump? I dont know of any way to test it, but it wouldnt be a bad idea to replace it IMHO. Also one thing that Ive heard of as a possible problem. Possible hose collapse at running speeds, choking off the water pump. Never experienced it personally, but I imagine its possible. Some people swear by running a lower hose with a spring in it (keeping it from collapsing, lots a cars use this method). How are your rad hoses? Especially the lower one, is it soft and mushy?
#9
I have this fan installed. It says 2900 cfm so I would think it should be enough. I'm thinking of wraping my RB headers because I can feel the heat in the eng bay. Also thinking of putting some vents in the hood.
#11
I wil drain my coolant today and do a 80/20 mixture. I drove the car last night when the temps here dropped to 89 deg or so. water temp stayed at 195 deg. Going to install a header heatshield also. I think all the heat is trapped in the eng bay.
#13
Originally Posted by gonzz
I have this fan installed. It says 2900 cfm so I would think it should be enough. I'm thinking of wraping my RB headers because I can feel the heat in the eng bay. Also thinking of putting some vents in the hood.
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