over heating...
#1
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over heating...
hey, guys, I'm over heating, this is the first time it's happend tome. It's not getting to the point of roasting an engine, but was running hotter than usual. I'm running straight water with a bottle of water wetter, and my mixture is in the stoichometric range. If you can help, PLEASE do. thanks alot.
Justin
Justin
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The boiling point really is not an issue. Since the cooling system is under pressure the boiling point is raised over 100 deg. above the operating temp of the engine. You should be running anti freeze (between 20-30%) to ensure that the water pump has propper lubrication and that the metal that forms the water passages will have corrosion protection. In colder climates where temperatures are offten at or below freezing, the percentage of anitfreeze should be higher, to lower the freezing point of water.
Things you should look at/replace in order of simplicity
Fan Clutch
Thermostat
Water pump (for corrosion or missing blades)
Radiator (for corrosion and the like)
Since you over heated it (got it hotter than usuall) keep an eye out for oil on the backside of plunger on the radiator cap, water condinsation on the indside of the oil cap, brown foam on the inside of the oil filler neck (all three of these will indicate an outter o-ring failure). Also steam billowing out of the tail pipes on a cold start-up (first thing in the morning) and check the spark plugs for rust or water. If you have the abbility, pull out the spark plugs and let it stand over night with a piece paper or card board on the ground under the spark plug holes. Examine the parper/cardboard for any signs of water in the morning. These will all identify water in the cumbustion chamber and indicate an inner o-ring failure.
..... and I can keep typing, But I won't. I hope this helps
Ryan
Things you should look at/replace in order of simplicity
Fan Clutch
Thermostat
Water pump (for corrosion or missing blades)
Radiator (for corrosion and the like)
Since you over heated it (got it hotter than usuall) keep an eye out for oil on the backside of plunger on the radiator cap, water condinsation on the indside of the oil cap, brown foam on the inside of the oil filler neck (all three of these will indicate an outter o-ring failure). Also steam billowing out of the tail pipes on a cold start-up (first thing in the morning) and check the spark plugs for rust or water. If you have the abbility, pull out the spark plugs and let it stand over night with a piece paper or card board on the ground under the spark plug holes. Examine the parper/cardboard for any signs of water in the morning. These will all identify water in the cumbustion chamber and indicate an inner o-ring failure.
..... and I can keep typing, But I won't. I hope this helps
Ryan
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This is just a shot in the dark, but maybe it increases the heat absorption capabilities of coolant? Raising the boiling point is pretty worthless, so what else is there but that?
And yes, if I were you I'd start running antifreeze formulated for aluminum engines.
And yes, if I were you I'd start running antifreeze formulated for aluminum engines.
#6
i had the same "problem." my temp guage climbed all the way up to halfway on a couple occasions. i've been told 2/3 up, turn off the motor, so i kept driving. each time the motor heated up like that, i spotted a little foam in the oil filler neck for a week or so afterwards, and each time it went away. right now my temp gauge sits about 1/8 of the way up (.5cm from the C line) during normal operation and there ain't no foam.
eventually i'll pop on an electric fan ('cause i think it's my clutch fan being a bitch).
eventually i'll pop on an electric fan ('cause i think it's my clutch fan being a bitch).
#7
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hey thanks for all your help but I've fixed the problem, by putting a new thremosat in and getting the Blackmagic M150. These are good because you can really tell the diffrence in the ***-dyno at high RPM.
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