Original Engine?
#27
Wow! This place IS helpful! =-)
How about this...and maybe I should start a new thread...?
Has anyone here actually installed A/C in a first generation RX-7? I'm seeing plenty advice along the lines of "in theory...." Has anyone actually done it? Thanks again.
How about this...and maybe I should start a new thread...?
Has anyone here actually installed A/C in a first generation RX-7? I'm seeing plenty advice along the lines of "in theory...." Has anyone actually done it? Thanks again.
#28
Do a search.
Yes, it has been done before. Many, many, many times before. Also many people have started that thread subject before, so if you look you might get a lot of crap. Look around you'll find what you are searching for.
I believe someone started a thread pretty recently (last month or so) on him putting in a AC.
Yes, it has been done before. Many, many, many times before. Also many people have started that thread subject before, so if you look you might get a lot of crap. Look around you'll find what you are searching for.
I believe someone started a thread pretty recently (last month or so) on him putting in a AC.
#29
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From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
To answer your original question : I've got 240,000km on the odo and it's still running great. Compression test shows borderline compression (6.9kg/cm2 @ 300rpm) but it's evenly distributed across all chambers with 0.1kg/cm2 or less variance.
What this means is that my engine has worn down evenly and gracefully over its life. It doesn't have as much power potential as it did from the factory, but with my Sterling Carb and RB exhaust it's pushing more HP to the rear wheels now than it had at the flywheel when it left the factory (104 rear wheel whp vs. 101 flywheel hp).
These 12a engines have a well-earned reputation for being basically bulletproof. I expect I'll probably get another 40,000-60,000km from it without any problems, which will be plenty of time for me to build the replacement franken-engine I plan to eventually put in it.
Jon
What this means is that my engine has worn down evenly and gracefully over its life. It doesn't have as much power potential as it did from the factory, but with my Sterling Carb and RB exhaust it's pushing more HP to the rear wheels now than it had at the flywheel when it left the factory (104 rear wheel whp vs. 101 flywheel hp).
These 12a engines have a well-earned reputation for being basically bulletproof. I expect I'll probably get another 40,000-60,000km from it without any problems, which will be plenty of time for me to build the replacement franken-engine I plan to eventually put in it.
Jon
#30
I did it last summer, installed a Nippon Denso with an upgraded condenser and R-152a. It will take you a long time to source the components and even then you will still be shovelling out cash for new seals and whatnot. Your best bet would be to swap the system out of a car that had it really. There is a lot of little brackets and whatnot that everyone forgets about.
#32
I got my components for only the cost of shipping (which to Canada ended up being around $200) due to a few very nice people on the forum. I still had to pay:
- ~240$ with shipping for a new condensor (UPS sucks)
- 20$ for new drier
- 35$ for new expansion valve
- 20$ to have new fitting crimped onto one of my hoses for the condensor
- $250 for a reman compressor
- $20 for poly ester oil
- $150 for used vac pump (got a impressive deal as its a pro one retailing at over 1g)
- $80 for manifold gauges and cap tap
- $10 for a six pack of R-152a (dust off cans)
I'm probably forgetting something.
Keep in mind that R-152a is a very close match to R12 and thus works much better in an R12 system than R-134a.
- ~240$ with shipping for a new condensor (UPS sucks)
- 20$ for new drier
- 35$ for new expansion valve
- 20$ to have new fitting crimped onto one of my hoses for the condensor
- $250 for a reman compressor
- $20 for poly ester oil
- $150 for used vac pump (got a impressive deal as its a pro one retailing at over 1g)
- $80 for manifold gauges and cap tap
- $10 for a six pack of R-152a (dust off cans)
I'm probably forgetting something.
Keep in mind that R-152a is a very close match to R12 and thus works much better in an R12 system than R-134a.
Last edited by Sgt Fox; 04-10-12 at 06:57 PM.
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