FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

I already posted this in another thread I made, but it really didnt belong there. Anyway, this is a car I bought, and am now in the process of swapping another 12A from another FB I have that doesnt have a title. Im also taking the time to install a new race clutch, all new clutch hydrolics, mounts, fuel system stuff, and some other goodies. \/

Got the engine apart today. Im not sure if I talked about the engines past, but here is the short history. The engine was a Mazda reman approx 6-8 years ago. It ran for around 3,000-5,000 miles before failure. He said it just quit one day and he never got around to fixing it, so it sat for all those years until I bought the car for $400! Anyway, took it apart, and didnt really see anything that showed me what went wrong. The rear rotor housing was full of gunk. Maybe a mix of oil and coolant that had sat for so many years. At first glance I thought all of the internals would be paper weights, but after some degreaser and a wire wheel on a drill, I got the housings looking brand new. Neither of the housings have ANY chipping or gooves what so ever. Look 99% brand new minus the obvious oil and the discolored spots that the degreaser left. All I need to get this going again is a soft seal kit, and a rotor kit. The apex seals were jammed in the grooves and rusted in place, and the first 2 I attempted to ease out cracked into 4 pieces... anyway, here are some pictures.

Here is what I encountered on first opening :


Here is one of the housings before cleaning. At first I thought the rusting would be deep and un-repairable, that wasnt so:


Here is a pulled back shot of the overall mess of weathered parts:


Here is an iron, love how you can see a perfect outline of the rotor that hadnt been moved in nearly a decade:


This is the cleaned housing, ignore the discolored spots, the degreaser did that for some reason. Its perfectly smooth though, just hard to see:


Here are the Eshaft, rotor and housing layed out. The rotor still has some slight surface rust, but Ill take care of it tomarrow:


Housing up close. I missed some spots with the wire wheel, but its just very light surface rust. Ill kill it with the brush tomarrow:


Some more surface rust, but you can see that the surface is smooth and chip/groove free :


Ill post more as I go...

I also wrapped the header with graphite wrap yesterday, helped the looks of the old rusty RB Streetport header very much. For future reference to other people wanting to wrap them, it takes approx. 16'-18' per runner, if you use 2'' wide wrap and overlap 1'' per round. So a 50ft roll will leave you nearly 20'.

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

Here is the car itself. Interior is flawless, needs a new windsheild, new right side tail light lens, header panel (between headlights) and front bumper. Along with pushing out a dent in the rear right corner and paint. Still not a bad deal for $400, as I got a non running engine that has all new parts in it.

Here is the crappy front:


Another:


Dirty rear:


Interior shots:





Engine as it came to me:


Came with RB intake, emmisions delete (sorta), RB Streetport exhaust (It will make a nice spare as I already have one), Springs (they are red, so maybe RB?) and a nice aftermarket sunroof... so Id say for $400 it wasnt too bad of a buy.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

for $400??? SWEEET!!!!!

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

you got a good deal.

thats a good way to let a new motor go to waste. man that thing was full of gunk!

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

Just cleaned the other housing and the only damage to it was a chip maybe the size of a grain of rice. Maybe 1/8'' wide and 1/4'' long on the edge of the housing. Now all I have left is 3 irons Its so damn hot outside, it makes this whole process seem like hard manual labor, even though its just sitting under a shade tree with a drill in hand.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I am still not convinced those parts are worthy... But since you're keeping it N/A, it'll probably work alright.

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

Why wouldnt they be worthy? The only difference between these and brand new parts is these have some oil and dirto n the outside of the housings and irons. The inner surfaces are 99% minus the 1 tiny chip. Here is the other housing that I didnt use degreaser on, so it doesnt have the spots on it. Still has water drops and some other stuff on it, so dont think they are flaws to the surface.


Just finished wrapping the other side of the header. One side is darker because it is still wet.

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

Got another Mazdatrix box on my doorstep today (I should be getting some discounts as much **** as I buy from them). My newest shipment is:

1) 1 12529 CLUTCH DISC S/RACE $132.00 $132.00
2) 1 12621 CLUTCH COVER RACE $167.00 $167.00
3) 1 16-5100-FE84 CLUTCH T/O BEARING $27.81 $27.81
4) 1 11-D030-N326 CLUTCH PILOT BRG $6.88 $6.88
5) 1 11-404A-1881 CLUTCH PILOT SEAL $2.54 $2.54
6) 1 49-0033-05 TOOL CLUTCH ALIGN $3.00 $3.00
7) 1 49-520A-GA02 CLUTCH MASTER KIT $16.39 $16.39
8) 1 41-920A-FA42 CLUTCH SLAVE $38.34 $38.34
9) 1 6508 CLUTCH SLAVE HOSE $18.00 $18.00
10) 1 39-340A-1011 MOUNT TRANS REAR $35.72 $35.72
11) 1 16-220D-8540 TRANS FRONT COVER $59.09 $59.09
12) 1 16-1030-0603 SEAL TRANS FRT INPUT $4.08 $4.08
13) 1 17-335A-0437 SEAL TRANS REAR $5.79 $5.79
21) 2 39-0400-4352 MOUNT ENGINE FRONT $57.05 $114.10

Total: $630.74

Easier than typing it all out

That on top of last weeks order of a Carter Fuel pump, Holley FPR Gauge, Holley FPR, some fittings, header wrap, and some other junk.



Should start doing to fun install work tomarrow. Oh, also, after closer inspection, it seems my irons wont be reusable. Seems that in all of the years they sat, the rust ate through the coating and left some nice deep pits. Some Id guess as deep as 1/32'' if not more. Most are small but deep, so Im guessing they are junk... oh well, so much for a free engine.

Max7

Wow does that setup take me back a few years.

I hope you like the clutch setup. I found it jerky in first but great in all others.
however ended up breaking 3rd gear twice in 2 GSL-SE trannys. Pulled the race disc for thier Heavy Duty one. Didn't miss it much at the time with only 134RWHP.

Nice find on the motor! Good luck with the car, it looks like your doing it the right way!!

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

Engine from my black 83 is almost out and ready to have the goodies put on it, then into the blue chassis. Anyone know a quick way to get the hatch open if the key doesnt work? Im guessing i will have to crawl through the front inside the car and take off the plastic cover panels and somehow open it manuely... Should have this thing running within 2 weeks if I keep up the pace of 2-3 hours a day.

karism

Nice progress there.Definately inspiration to me!

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Good luck with the puck style clutch. I would have gotten the full faced one. Otherwise, not a bad selection of goodies. Oh, and the race pressure plate is a little heavy in bumper to bumper.

The outside of your car looks a little like PercentSevenC's '81. Same sunroof too.

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I might should have gone with a more daily drivable clutch, but seeing as Im about to pick up a nice 99+ Miata as a daily driver, this FB will only be a weekend car. Im not in much bumper to bumper, so it will mostly be open road and interstate. Id like to go lightweight flywheel, but cant really afford to, or dont want to spend that much on one right now. Plus Id imagine this race clutch on a stock flywheel would be a bit easier to drive than a lightweight flywheel on the roads.

I now have the engine from my black non titled donor car, and have stripped the accessories off. I have cleaned the block really well with degreaser and soap, and am now moving on to the brackets and pullies and manifolds. I plan to leave the block pretty stock looking, Irons black and housings natural. Intake manifold (1 piece design for mikuni/dellorto/weber) in ceramic high heat black. Header is wrapped with graphite heat wrap. Engine bay has been cleaned pretty well, and doesnt seem to need new paint. So when it goes back in, it should look pretty nice and clean. Simple colors, maybe with a few accent pieces.

Tomarrow I will drop the trans from the blue FB and clean it, replace the rear seal and trans mounts. Clean up any other pieces I didnt clean today and paint them. Brackets black like the manifold and irons. Now all Im waiting on are some seals from Mazdatrix. Thought I had them all ready but realised today I forgot a few. Gotta have an oil pan gasket, front and rear main seal, OMP seal/gasket, Intake manifold gasket and a new exhaust gasket. So another $40 in parts and I should be ready to throw the clutch on, install the new bearings and seals, bolt the tranny to the engine and drop it into its new home for hopefully the next several years. Then plug up the 3 or 4 sensors, a few coolant lines and a few vacuum lines and Im ready to go.

I will try and snag some pictures tomarrow, though there isnt much to look at, and nothing most of you havent seen.

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

Snapped a few pictures today of my painted parts. I painted the engine, mount bracket and manifold. Which took me pretty much all day as alot of it had rust on it that had to be taken off. I wasnt aiming for show car nice, just better than it was.

Engine:


Manifold (still lacking the top gloss coat, only has the base flat black 1200 degree coat):


Bracket:


I think the simple black and silver color combo is nice and simple. Gives it a slightly evil look

Here are pictures of the engine bays. Here is what it came out of. Hopefully soon to recieve a V8:


And where it is going. I know it looks dirty, but for some reason the picture makes it looks bad, plus it has a ton of pine straw in it. It has been sitting out in the weather for 3 weeks with no hood:


More to come soon.

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

UHG! As always, I run into problems close to the end that make me want to quit. Im so damn sick of working on this thing and just want it to go back together so I can be done with it. I go to drop the engine in today and I cant get the damn input shaft for the tranny to slide into the pilot bearing. The alignment tool slides in and out freely no problem, but no matter what angle I tilted it, how hard I pushed or how much I cussed it, it wouldnt slide in. So now after wasting nearly all day doing that, tomarrow I will just pull the tranny and bolt it together outside of the car like I usualy do. I thought maybe it would go smooth and I would save some time. I guess not. Also, do you think it would be possible for me to leave the driveshaft hooked up the the diff and just slide the splines out, and reverse for install? Ill have a helper to help guide everything, so it seems easy enough.

Ive got some pictures of the nearly complete engine. This is as of 2 days ago, It has a bit more on it now. Its simple and clean, and I like it




MAYBE tomarrow I can get the damn tranny out, bolt everything back up and get the engine and trans at least sitting in the car. Then all thats left if the simple task *crosses fingers* of hooking up a few hoses and wires. Maybe it will all go smooth...

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

If this is where that engine is going, it looks kinda rusty where there shouldn't be any rust.


That could be why it's not going together.

With a helper, it should be no problem to slide the drive shaft yoke into the tranny without onbolting it from the diff.

Latin270

^^^ doesnt look bad to me Jeff? Everything looks good except that coolant line thats rusty (hole in line?) Unless your referring to the battery tray rust?

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

I think he means the trans input shaft. It sat non running for many years with the inspection cover off. Ive since knocked the rust off of it, along with gotten rid of most of the other rust. And no, there is no hole in the line, its just light surface rust, I got rid of it with a wire brush and some naval jelly.