OK YellowJacket... this one is for you!
#1
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 71
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From: Lewiston, Maine / Orlando, Florida
OK YellowJacket... this one is for you!
Ok guys, ever since yellowjacket said "EWWWWW ARE THOSE EMISSIONS I SEE???" I have had a BURNING question...
My state doesn't have an emission law, so can I take out my emissions devices? If so, what do I take out? And, What'll I see for a difference???
Thanks guys!
My state doesn't have an emission law, so can I take out my emissions devices? If so, what do I take out? And, What'll I see for a difference???
Thanks guys!
#2
Ok here goes.... Your engine bay will look ALOT cleaner without all those damned hoses all over the place and you MAY get a slight increase in HP.
Rotaries dont need any of that crap to run. On my 83 (may she rest in peices) I had a holley carb and intake and there wasnt a single emissions device ANYWHERE in the engine bay. As a matter of fact the only vacuum hose present was the one for the brake booster!!!!
I have always said (and I think I've said it a few times here on this forum) "IF THE ENGINE DON'T NEED IT TO RUN... TEAR IT THE HELL OUT!!" The only thing attached to my engine was the alternator and ONLY becuase the dan battery wouldn't power the car for more than 2 hours (yes I have tried fellas).
So in closing... My advice to you my brother in rotors is to remove all that crap thats smothering your engine. Especially since there arent any emission laws where you live!
Emmisions =
Emmissions ***** =
Whoever dont like what I have to say =
and Im outta here.... for now!!
Rotaries dont need any of that crap to run. On my 83 (may she rest in peices) I had a holley carb and intake and there wasnt a single emissions device ANYWHERE in the engine bay. As a matter of fact the only vacuum hose present was the one for the brake booster!!!!
I have always said (and I think I've said it a few times here on this forum) "IF THE ENGINE DON'T NEED IT TO RUN... TEAR IT THE HELL OUT!!" The only thing attached to my engine was the alternator and ONLY becuase the dan battery wouldn't power the car for more than 2 hours (yes I have tried fellas).
So in closing... My advice to you my brother in rotors is to remove all that crap thats smothering your engine. Especially since there arent any emission laws where you live!
Emmisions =
Emmissions ***** =
Whoever dont like what I have to say =
and Im outta here.... for now!!
#4
See all those rubber evil snakes sitting on top of your block... RIP EM OFF and cap where they came from... it makes a HUGE difference...
You dont HAVE to leave the vaccum advance connected its not necessary, its just another emissions control thing, you dont NEED the hose running from the oil filler neck to the carb either but it cant hurt to have... dont disconnect your charcoal canister... its the big tin can on the pass side of the car.
You dont HAVE to leave the vaccum advance connected its not necessary, its just another emissions control thing, you dont NEED the hose running from the oil filler neck to the carb either but it cant hurt to have... dont disconnect your charcoal canister... its the big tin can on the pass side of the car.
#6
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,847
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Originally posted by rx7passion
sure....... unless you change it over to mechanical advance. your car will run like crap with out it. leave it on!
sure....... unless you change it over to mechanical advance. your car will run like crap with out it. leave it on!
#7
sure....... unless you change it over to mechanical advance. your car will run like crap with out it. leave it on!
No offense intended, I just don't understand where that comment came from.
Car runs WAAAYYY better without vaccuum advance!!!! At least that is my experience.
Ask RXcetera, he's got a switch that turns on/off the vaccuum advance. That's the tricked out ****. When it is on, the idle gets noticeably shittier.
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#8
Just curious, but why the hell aside from the novelty aspect would someone install a switch that turns the vacuum advance on/off. Personally I didn't notice any difference when I disconnected the vacuum advance but what DID make a difference was getting the advance curve modified. It now has about 10* advance at idle and 20* total. Throttle response is improved and it idles better as well.
#9
EliteHardcoreCannuckSquad
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,178
Likes: 0
From: London, England/Sesimbra, Portugal
Good question lol. Mostly because I'm from the old school and I run near stock timing (2º L, 19º T), none of this Paul Yaw stuff. Running without vacuum advance and stock (or near stock) timing produces a MUCH smoother idle and generaly nicer and smoother acceleration due to the fact that your leading timing isnt being advanced (via the vacuum advance) until 3500rpm. Disconecting the vac advance also give you smoother decelaration for the same reason as stated above.
The downside of this is that your emissions go through the roof at idle and slow speed cruising with the vacuum advance is removed. You can smell the unburnt fuel whenever you're stopped at a light. So that's why I did it. Whenever there's a cop behind me, I flip the switch, my car feels crappy and slow and I start burning off all that excess fuel before it hits his nose.
BTW Revhed, as you can tell, novelty does play a little part in this. But there's no way you can convice me that idling at 10º of advance is smoother than idling at 0º advance.
The downside of this is that your emissions go through the roof at idle and slow speed cruising with the vacuum advance is removed. You can smell the unburnt fuel whenever you're stopped at a light. So that's why I did it. Whenever there's a cop behind me, I flip the switch, my car feels crappy and slow and I start burning off all that excess fuel before it hits his nose.
BTW Revhed, as you can tell, novelty does play a little part in this. But there's no way you can convice me that idling at 10º of advance is smoother than idling at 0º advance.