Oil Spraying out of front end
#1
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From: Vancouver, BC
Oil Spraying out of front end
Ok guys, my car was sitting for about 6 months or so not driven cause i was in school. I took it out today, washed it made it all nice and clean, and sprayed the engine bay a little bit. Ok now i went home after driving it for a bit went a few places, about 3 hours driving, not too hard either, shifting at 3500 RPM usually, just casual. And i get home, and im going to park it, and its sort of a tight spot, so i need to manuver alot. But when its parked, i get out, and to my dismay, there is oil EVERYwhere! Like it shows the path of where my car was moving, all comming out of the front end. So i open up the engine bay, and there is oil all over, like on the hood, front of the engine, on the plate undertneath the oil Cooler. So i willshow some pics i took, i think it may have to do with the Oil Cooler, but like it must have been just spraying, cause it was on the hood!
also its a 1982 GS, and has only 50 000 Km's on the rebuild.
So any help please, would be of great justice to me and my 7!
thank alot, and here are the pictures:
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/3171/rx7002zy7.jpg
http://img43.imagevenue.com/aAfkjfp0..._122_461lo.jpghttp://img43.imagevenue.com/aAfkjfp0..._122_461lo.jpg
http://img154.imagevenue.com/aAfkjfp..._122_516lo.jpghttp://img154.imagevenue.com/aAfkjfp..._122_516lo.jpg
http://img141.imagevenue.com/aAfkjfp..._122_592lo.jpghttp://img141.imagevenue.com/aAfkjfp..._122_592lo.jpg
Thanks alot! you dont know how much i appreciate it if you guys could give me some clues!
-Mark W.
also its a 1982 GS, and has only 50 000 Km's on the rebuild.
So any help please, would be of great justice to me and my 7!
thank alot, and here are the pictures:
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/3171/rx7002zy7.jpg
http://img43.imagevenue.com/aAfkjfp0..._122_461lo.jpghttp://img43.imagevenue.com/aAfkjfp0..._122_461lo.jpg
http://img154.imagevenue.com/aAfkjfp..._122_516lo.jpghttp://img154.imagevenue.com/aAfkjfp..._122_516lo.jpg
http://img141.imagevenue.com/aAfkjfp..._122_592lo.jpghttp://img141.imagevenue.com/aAfkjfp..._122_592lo.jpg
Thanks alot! you dont know how much i appreciate it if you guys could give me some clues!
-Mark W.
#2
Most likely you blew one of the oil cooler hoses. Happened to me years back, and it does make quite a mess. Check your oil level to make sure it is oil. I only say this because you mentioned the parking difficulties and was wondering if you have power steering. If so, then that might be another source. How about a few more details on the car (year, trim level). Welcome to the forum.
#3
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From: Vancouver, BC
wow, this place is awesome, ok well its a 1982 GS 12a. dont know what trim level is haha. 50 000 km's on the rebuild. And i dont have power steering, its just a tough parking spot to get into, thats why there is such a mess on my driveway.
and thanks for the welcome!
and thanks for the welcome!
#4
The US 84/85 -SE's had a frequently reported problem with the front airdam and oil cooler being so close to the front end that if you tapped a parking curb while pulling in, it would tweak the cooler enough to break the aluminum bungs that attach the oil cooler lines.
(Jeez, I was just posting on another thread about how to change the FMOC...)
Anyway - it could be that you bumped the oil cooler or underpan on the parking curb and tweaked the hoses. Also, with these cars being 25 years old, your cooler lines could have just gone out, in which case you should read that other thread about how to change the lines - there are tricks to it to save you some hassle. HTH,
(Jeez, I was just posting on another thread about how to change the FMOC...)
Anyway - it could be that you bumped the oil cooler or underpan on the parking curb and tweaked the hoses. Also, with these cars being 25 years old, your cooler lines could have just gone out, in which case you should read that other thread about how to change the lines - there are tricks to it to save you some hassle. HTH,
#5
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From: Vancouver, BC
oo i know i was kinda in there with the pressure washer, maybe cracked something? it wasnt on high at all, just i was in ther ekinda spraying... ****.
lol.
also another question i have for you experts, is that, it seems my engine fan is ALWAYS running, i could be going down the city street today, it was only 9 Degrees out (celcuis) and the fan is on high, just blowing. Could it be that the sesor is gone? or what could be the problem.
And thanks to all who helped, so should i check the hoses going into the oil cooler, and the ones going out for cracks? also the corrugated oil coler metal too?
lol.
also another question i have for you experts, is that, it seems my engine fan is ALWAYS running, i could be going down the city street today, it was only 9 Degrees out (celcuis) and the fan is on high, just blowing. Could it be that the sesor is gone? or what could be the problem.
And thanks to all who helped, so should i check the hoses going into the oil cooler, and the ones going out for cracks? also the corrugated oil coler metal too?
#6
do you have an electric fan?? if not you have a stock clutch fan which could be froze..i dunno i never messed with it mine always seems to be on but i can spin it with my fingers and its fine! if you still can fig wtf is going on clean it all up and fill your oil back up and either crank it and dont let it start or start it and shut it off really quick, give it just enough time to get som pressure so the oil will leak again. before you do that though double check ALL fittings making sure they are tight and look for cracks all around your cooler and what not.
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#8
o yeah on your cooler dont over tighten the fittings. i have seen junk yard cars that have over tightend fittings on the bungs on the cooler and they are cracked same thing happend with my cooler. the person b4 me over tightend them and i had a small leak and had no idea what it was. just becarful!
EDIT: i just found this posted by LongDuck "Some tips from someone who's been there;
1) DO NOT tighten everything up as snug as you can as you go - get all of the hoses into position, and then tight the ones on the FMOC with 2-FINGERS ON THE WRENCH, ONLY. This ensures that you won't crack the aluminum bungs on your SE cooler, which will become the bane of your entire existence on this planet. Tighten the engine-block side to the specific torque specs, and NO MORE.
(few things will evoke cuss words as getting your new cooler installed only to have it spewing oil like a fountain...)
2) Use the correct (and NEW) ALUMINUM crush washers that go under the fittings at the cooler - there may also be copper washers that will work - aluminum is better. Without these in place, it will not seal.
3) Once you get everything hooked up correctly - check it again - be extra careful with the routing and make sure it's all bolted down correctly, but NOT TIGHT.
4) Refill your engine oil - make sure it's to the top line of the dipstick.
5) Start the car - it's going to leak, that's what you want. NOW, go around with the correct 22mm (?) box-end wrenchs (2 of them - one for the bung, one for the fitting) and tighten down the cooler fittings JUST UNTIL THEY STOP LEAKING. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.
6) Shut the engine off and top off your oil supply again.
You don't need a lot of torque on these fittings, or you'll crack the bungs. Just enough torque until it stops leaking. Any more than this, even 5-7 ft/lbs more, and you're going to start spraying oil from the fractured bungs. Repair can only be completed by a competent heliarc welder, and most shops won't work on coolers that have had oil through them due to explosion/fire risks. Finding one who will is going to be expensive, frustrating, and time-consuming.
Read this post again about 4 times over, and then re-install your FMOC. Don't run the car without an oil cooler - you will toast your engine, guaranteed. HTH," thats all you need to know!
EDIT: i just found this posted by LongDuck "Some tips from someone who's been there;
1) DO NOT tighten everything up as snug as you can as you go - get all of the hoses into position, and then tight the ones on the FMOC with 2-FINGERS ON THE WRENCH, ONLY. This ensures that you won't crack the aluminum bungs on your SE cooler, which will become the bane of your entire existence on this planet. Tighten the engine-block side to the specific torque specs, and NO MORE.
(few things will evoke cuss words as getting your new cooler installed only to have it spewing oil like a fountain...)
2) Use the correct (and NEW) ALUMINUM crush washers that go under the fittings at the cooler - there may also be copper washers that will work - aluminum is better. Without these in place, it will not seal.
3) Once you get everything hooked up correctly - check it again - be extra careful with the routing and make sure it's all bolted down correctly, but NOT TIGHT.
4) Refill your engine oil - make sure it's to the top line of the dipstick.
5) Start the car - it's going to leak, that's what you want. NOW, go around with the correct 22mm (?) box-end wrenchs (2 of them - one for the bung, one for the fitting) and tighten down the cooler fittings JUST UNTIL THEY STOP LEAKING. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.
6) Shut the engine off and top off your oil supply again.
You don't need a lot of torque on these fittings, or you'll crack the bungs. Just enough torque until it stops leaking. Any more than this, even 5-7 ft/lbs more, and you're going to start spraying oil from the fractured bungs. Repair can only be completed by a competent heliarc welder, and most shops won't work on coolers that have had oil through them due to explosion/fire risks. Finding one who will is going to be expensive, frustrating, and time-consuming.
Read this post again about 4 times over, and then re-install your FMOC. Don't run the car without an oil cooler - you will toast your engine, guaranteed. HTH," thats all you need to know!
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