Oil Pressure Mods
#29
djessence
Thread Starter
This is all good info. Once everything has been gleaned imo it should be cleaned up (useless posts leaving tho there arent many) and archived.
So wacky nothing will happen beacause of too much oil pressure? Temp wont rise or anything due to passing through cooler too quick?
So wacky nothing will happen beacause of too much oil pressure? Temp wont rise or anything due to passing through cooler too quick?
#31
my contribution from my experiences ...
DO:
1. raise rear regulator pressure by either compressing the stock regulator (Wacky-style) or getting the FD regulator. shim the front with 2 M6 (maybe M5, i can't remember) washers.
2. use race bearings - rotors and mains. not ABSOLUTELY necessary, but if your going to replace the bearings, i'd say use the race parts.
3. teardrops on the e-shaft - again, NOT necessary, but i've done it on all of my motors for 1.5 years now.
4. remove the screen on the pickup tube and make a venturi. CAUTION is the operative word if your not the meticulous, paranoid type. perhaps add another filter in the loop.
5. use oil appropriate for your driving and maintenance habits.
6. Mazda oil filters ... if you think they are expensive, price an engine to replace the on you just built.
DO NOT DO:
1. drill out the stock e-shaft jets like i did a while back. i swear i never saw more than 80 PSI on the motor - even with the FD rear regulator. no problems, but it made me very nervous.
DO:
1. raise rear regulator pressure by either compressing the stock regulator (Wacky-style) or getting the FD regulator. shim the front with 2 M6 (maybe M5, i can't remember) washers.
2. use race bearings - rotors and mains. not ABSOLUTELY necessary, but if your going to replace the bearings, i'd say use the race parts.
3. teardrops on the e-shaft - again, NOT necessary, but i've done it on all of my motors for 1.5 years now.
4. remove the screen on the pickup tube and make a venturi. CAUTION is the operative word if your not the meticulous, paranoid type. perhaps add another filter in the loop.
5. use oil appropriate for your driving and maintenance habits.
6. Mazda oil filters ... if you think they are expensive, price an engine to replace the on you just built.
DO NOT DO:
1. drill out the stock e-shaft jets like i did a while back. i swear i never saw more than 80 PSI on the motor - even with the FD rear regulator. no problems, but it made me very nervous.
#32
djessence
Thread Starter
3. teardrops on the e-shaft - again, NOT necessary, but i've done it on all of my motors for 1.5 years now.
#33
advanced novice
well ill tell you in a nut shell. all part numbers are the same through the years only a few changed try looking up the parts number for a key from 75 to 95 they were the same might even be the same number for the rx8. wouldnt doubt it at all. what would you do if you had a part number for everything on one car and that car was produced for say 30 years and had several face changes would you give a different number for a million something parts for every different year not reusing any number. that would kind of start turning in to rocket science to make new numbers right. so mazda uses the same number for the same parts and does it per car model and year so that you get the right part. look it up some time you will be very surprised
#36
One Luv "Till The End"
iTrader: (33)
Shim the front 1/8th and the rear well it all depends on how much oil press... you want...you do it by the book from racing beat your going to get 20 extra pounds...
I smashed my past the point racingbeat said or wrote in the book...got 115psi...no problems....and the reason why i wanted it that high is because i do a lot of drag racing....So instead of buying there opr kit for $156 i spent 10 min's making my own...
Also think about changing your stations and rotor bearings while your at it...better safe then sorry in the long run
I smashed my past the point racingbeat said or wrote in the book...got 115psi...no problems....and the reason why i wanted it that high is because i do a lot of drag racing....So instead of buying there opr kit for $156 i spent 10 min's making my own...
Also think about changing your stations and rotor bearings while your at it...better safe then sorry in the long run
#37
djessence
Thread Starter
Meaning new or race? I have new stock bearings and thats what caused the start of this thread because people said there can be issues with oil starvation.
#38
djessence
Thread Starter
K so, following the video I think Rich provided (maybe?). Disasterous results occurred, and am now in the market for a ROPR.
Is the FD one (90-100PSI) direct replacement with no mod necessary? Think its about 30 bucks vs the like 90 for ours and has a higher bypass pressure.
Is the FD one (90-100PSI) direct replacement with no mod necessary? Think its about 30 bucks vs the like 90 for ours and has a higher bypass pressure.
#40
400WHP or bust
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Shim the front 1/8th and the rear well it all depends on how much oil press... you want...you do it by the book from racing beat your going to get 20 extra pounds...
I smashed my past the point racingbeat said or wrote in the book...got 115psi...no problems....and the reason why i wanted it that high is because i do a lot of drag racing....So instead of buying there opr kit for $156 i spent 10 min's making my own...
I smashed my past the point racingbeat said or wrote in the book...got 115psi...no problems....and the reason why i wanted it that high is because i do a lot of drag racing....So instead of buying there opr kit for $156 i spent 10 min's making my own...
A cheap way to get higher oil pressure is to go to Mazda and buy the FD regulator, I paid 35CDN bucks brand new, you can never go wrong with brand new parts, and you know what oil pressure you will get rather than guessing how much you bashed the front of the regulator in.
You don't need to change anything in the front the FD and FC both use the same Front Cover OPR passing at 156PSI, I never changed or modded my front OPR and I get 30psi at idle, and 95+ at 4k or higher.
#42
djessence
Thread Starter
Well really you don't need to shim the front, in the FSM the higher FD ROPR and the FC Lower FC ROPR both use the same 156PSI passing FOPR.
A cheap way to get higher oil pressure is to go to Mazda and buy the FD regulator, I paid 35CDN bucks brand new, you can never go wrong with brand new parts, and you know what oil pressure you will get rather than guessing how much you bashed the front of the regulator in.
A cheap way to get higher oil pressure is to go to Mazda and buy the FD regulator, I paid 35CDN bucks brand new, you can never go wrong with brand new parts, and you know what oil pressure you will get rather than guessing how much you bashed the front of the regulator in.
I can get one for 20 ish from Mazdaspeed or 30 from a place here. So we will see whats what i guess.
Thanks wacky and nismo.
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