1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Oil Pressure Mods

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Old 04-21-08, 05:42 PM
  #26  
djessence

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pretty sure thats what mine looks like too
Old 04-21-08, 09:49 PM
  #27  
premix, for f's sake

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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
You will have plenty of oil pressure (perhaps too much lol).
what could happen w/ too much oil pressure? i hope nothing that'll cause any enigine problems. to prep my motor for boost i followed the pineapple racing video step by step on modifying the regulators... i guess i shouldn't run my beloved 15w40 anymore
Old 04-21-08, 09:55 PM
  #28  
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nothing will happen. You motor will go before the oil pump. I have over 50K of daily abuse in my RX-3 motor using a 100psi ROPR from powerhouseengineering. I have been praying for this motor to blow so I have an excuse to build another motor but it aint happening.
Old 04-21-08, 09:57 PM
  #29  
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This is all good info. Once everything has been gleaned imo it should be cleaned up (useless posts leaving tho there arent many) and archived.

So wacky nothing will happen beacause of too much oil pressure? Temp wont rise or anything due to passing through cooler too quick?
Old 04-21-08, 10:08 PM
  #30  
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nope but just dont drive the car like a maniac when the engine is cold. When I drove my other RX-3 llike that (13-B streetport with FD ROPR) , peg'd a 100psi gauge. Had to upgrade to 200PSI so I can see some #'s. Motor has over 20K with no issues either.
Old 04-21-08, 11:05 PM
  #31  
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my contribution from my experiences ...

DO:
1. raise rear regulator pressure by either compressing the stock regulator (Wacky-style) or getting the FD regulator. shim the front with 2 M6 (maybe M5, i can't remember) washers.

2. use race bearings - rotors and mains. not ABSOLUTELY necessary, but if your going to replace the bearings, i'd say use the race parts.

3. teardrops on the e-shaft - again, NOT necessary, but i've done it on all of my motors for 1.5 years now.

4. remove the screen on the pickup tube and make a venturi. CAUTION is the operative word if your not the meticulous, paranoid type. perhaps add another filter in the loop.

5. use oil appropriate for your driving and maintenance habits.

6. Mazda oil filters ... if you think they are expensive, price an engine to replace the on you just built.


DO NOT DO:

1. drill out the stock e-shaft jets like i did a while back. i swear i never saw more than 80 PSI on the motor - even with the FD rear regulator. no problems, but it made me very nervous.
Old 04-21-08, 11:25 PM
  #32  
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3. teardrops on the e-shaft - again, NOT necessary, but i've done it on all of my motors for 1.5 years now.
Is there somewhere specific i should look for what that is? I've never heard of it.
Old 04-21-08, 11:28 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by djessence
WTF is going on with mazda part numbers haha.
well ill tell you in a nut shell. all part numbers are the same through the years only a few changed try looking up the parts number for a key from 75 to 95 they were the same might even be the same number for the rx8. wouldnt doubt it at all. what would you do if you had a part number for everything on one car and that car was produced for say 30 years and had several face changes would you give a different number for a million something parts for every different year not reusing any number. that would kind of start turning in to rocket science to make new numbers right. so mazda uses the same number for the same parts and does it per car model and year so that you get the right part. look it up some time you will be very surprised
Old 04-21-08, 11:53 PM
  #34  
Lapping = Fapping

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Originally Posted by 64mgb
Oil pump pictures attached.

Rich
That's the high volume.
Old 04-22-08, 12:18 AM
  #35  
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Good news!
Old 04-22-08, 01:22 AM
  #36  
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Shim the front 1/8th and the rear well it all depends on how much oil press... you want...you do it by the book from racing beat your going to get 20 extra pounds...

I smashed my past the point racingbeat said or wrote in the book...got 115psi...no problems....and the reason why i wanted it that high is because i do a lot of drag racing....So instead of buying there opr kit for $156 i spent 10 min's making my own...

Also think about changing your stations and rotor bearings while your at it...better safe then sorry in the long run
Old 04-22-08, 01:21 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by teddyrx2
Also think about changing your stations and rotor bearings while your at it...better safe then sorry in the long run
Meaning new or race? I have new stock bearings and thats what caused the start of this thread because people said there can be issues with oil starvation.
Old 04-27-08, 11:30 PM
  #38  
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K so, following the video I think Rich provided (maybe?). Disasterous results occurred, and am now in the market for a ROPR.

Is the FD one (90-100PSI) direct replacement with no mod necessary? Think its about 30 bucks vs the like 90 for ours and has a higher bypass pressure.
Old 04-28-08, 12:21 AM
  #39  
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why buy a new ROPR??? Told you the trick on how to achieve 80+ psi. Use that $$$ savings on a 12-pack of cold heines and bbq while doing the ROPR change out. BUT if you must, FD ROPR requires no mod except for the front cover.
Old 04-28-08, 01:05 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by teddyrx2
Shim the front 1/8th and the rear well it all depends on how much oil press... you want...you do it by the book from racing beat your going to get 20 extra pounds...

I smashed my past the point racingbeat said or wrote in the book...got 115psi...no problems....and the reason why i wanted it that high is because i do a lot of drag racing....So instead of buying there opr kit for $156 i spent 10 min's making my own...
Well really you don't need to shim the front, in the FSM the higher FD ROPR and the FC Lower FC ROPR both use the same 156PSI passing FOPR.

A cheap way to get higher oil pressure is to go to Mazda and buy the FD regulator, I paid 35CDN bucks brand new, you can never go wrong with brand new parts, and you know what oil pressure you will get rather than guessing how much you bashed the front of the regulator in.

Originally Posted by wackyracer
why buy a new ROPR??? Told you the trick on how to achieve 80+ psi. Use that $$$ savings on a 12-pack of cold heines and bbq while doing the ROPR change out. BUT if you must, FD ROPR requires no mod except for the front cover.
You don't need to change anything in the front the FD and FC both use the same Front Cover OPR passing at 156PSI, I never changed or modded my front OPR and I get 30psi at idle, and 95+ at 4k or higher.
Old 04-28-08, 01:27 AM
  #41  
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Yea I have shimmed my front one roughly 1/8" and the rear looked like it went into a blender. Is that ok as long as it has been squished...?
Old 04-28-08, 01:34 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Nismo Convert86
Well really you don't need to shim the front, in the FSM the higher FD ROPR and the FC Lower FC ROPR both use the same 156PSI passing FOPR.

A cheap way to get higher oil pressure is to go to Mazda and buy the FD regulator, I paid 35CDN bucks brand new, you can never go wrong with brand new parts, and you know what oil pressure you will get rather than guessing how much you bashed the front of the regulator in.
Yea thats what was goin on in my head. I bashed it in(per wacky's intrsuctions) but it doesnt look pretty. Ill have to take another look and see on a new day (which apparently is now lol)

I can get one for 20 ish from Mazdaspeed or 30 from a place here. So we will see whats what i guess.

Thanks wacky and nismo.
Old 04-28-08, 07:51 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Nismo Convert86

You don't need to change anything in the front the FD and FC both use the same Front Cover OPR passing at 156PSI, I never changed or modded my front OPR and I get 30psi at idle, and 95+ at 4k or higher.

I say bullshit on the FC ROPR.
Old 04-28-08, 10:21 AM
  #44  
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and too this is an FB...
Old 04-28-08, 06:42 PM
  #45  
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I still don't understand why you would want the oil pressure so high.
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