HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

So here is the story.

I have a GSL-SE with no emissions and a bunch of other things done.

So anyhow, Ive been getting lung butter so I took the advice of some people and just drilled a couple of small holes in my oil cap so it can vent. I know that I should run PCV Valve and do this corretly but I had an extra cap and was just going to see if this worked after changing my oil.

So I went to an autocross yesterday. I made all four of my runs and the car was completely fine. I openned the hood after each run and there were no problems. So I let an instructor drive my car to give me some advice on the car, the track etc. After we pulled in the car idled very rough. I didnt think much of it. Shortly after I left and stopped by the gas station before the ride home. I dont believe he over revved the car or anything.

On the way to the gas station the car was breaking up below 3-4k. I pulled into the gas station and it was still idling rough. I openned the hood and there was oil all over the drivers side of the engine bay, the hood, everywhere. Apparently on that last run the motor shot oil up out fill tube and out the drilled cap.

I drove the car home after adding some oil and it ran fine except for below 3k.


Any thoughs or ideas on why this happened and why the car is running rough after this?

I am going to clean it up after work today and run a proper ventalation system. Any special advice on that as well?

Thanks in advance,

-Greg

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Im surprised that they alllowed you to run without a catch tank (nipple on cap ==>> hose >> tank (or 2 liter soda bottle)

Also, I never had a problem with mine. Did you plug up the breather on the center plate facing the rear rotor?

purple82

Check your oil supply lines along the driver's side of the engine. If it burst, you'd have no oil left, but maybe you've got a slow leak.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I'm with Purple82. Sounds like you've got a damaged oil hose/line. It sounds improbable to me that you would be able to spray oil all over the place through the unpressurized oil filler tube. Seems a lot more likely that one of your pressurized oil supply/return hoses has a split in it and is spraying oil on the underside of your hood...

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

I'll have to check the lines, however I did not loose anymore oil the remainder of the 100 mile trip home. Odd. I did take it to redline a couple times during that trip as well.

Wacky, I believe it is plugged but Id have to double check.

Thanks for the help thus far.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i had this happen once. i had a bad oil filter. it came loose and the internals were wasted. oddly enough it was a k&n. it was a mess. its like it unthreaded itself due to pressure buildup...not too sure as it was years ago. and yes the filter was tight, i always double check after i perform my oil changes.

Kentetsu

Could be running rough under 3k due to oil on ignition components. Not sure why you would have been shooting oil in the first place though.

Mine is hooked up with a vacuum line from the filler tube straight to a nipple at the base of the carb. Never has caused me any issues, and no lung butter either. Others insist that you need a pcv valve in there, but I haven't seen the need for one myself...

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

I was unable to clean the engine out today but the symptoms are the same. It wont really idle now.

The rear iron facing breather is still attached and vented to the atmosphere where it used to attach to the charcol canister.

As for the oil filter, I did just change the oil and replaced the filter with a Pure One Purolator. It did feel very warm however even before the engine really warmed up today.

Ill clean it up along with the ignition connections tomorrow.

Thanks for the help so far.

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

Check your oil lines

+1

Not true i have had back splash come out from the dip stick and oil everywhere...

Note true as mentioned above, i have had oil back spray crazy out of my dip stick...pressure builds up somewhere from unknown reason...but it is a good thing to check the canister, check your oil lines, oil filter, just anywhere oil related and look for damage, or kinks or something...

Kentetsu

But if it is coming out of the oil cap, that would mean that the crankcase is being pressurized somehow. I know on a boinger motor that could be bad piston rings causing blowby, but what would that mean for a rotary?

purple82

I'm confused that it's "not true" to check his oil supply lines. Maybe you're not reading the posts correctly.

Hades12

I have had this happen.

My cap is cracked, Took a buddy out for a spin and run out a Donut, before I realized it the tach was burred with the buzzer on. Got back and there was an oil spot on the hood right over top of the cap, has never happened again.

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

Thats kinda what I was hoping for. The instructor did have the needle burried, however its not like I didnt in my runs either.

I will put a closed cap on, run a correct vent system and clean up the engine bay.

Hopefully it will start running right at that point as well.

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

Update,

I got everything cleaned up. The car still runs like ****. It seems like it runs like **** everywhere now with the miss being worse than before.

I am getting spark, I dont believe I have a vacum leak and now there is a knocking sound coming from the motor.

Any help. Any one in central florida willing to try to help?

Thanks

-Greg

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

remove spark plugs, what do they look like.

might as well clean the plugs now that they're out.

put all but one leading plug back in, turn motor over by hand using 19mm socket wrench on the e-shaft bolt. do you get three strong puffs or does it wheeze?

any metal in the oil during oil change?

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

dead side seal pressurizes the crankcase. the oil dipstick pops out and sprays. but this guy has holes in the filler cap.

hey, why not masking tape over the holes, drive fast in a straight line and pop the hood. see if the masking tape lifted up over the holes/?????///

BlackWorksInc

I agree with that, if the crankcase (wouldn't it be more like a 'shaft case since we don't have Cranks? ) is being pressurized it is probably the side seals leaking which is the equvilant of blowby for a rotary.

I would say to check the compression of each rotor as well as the tape trick mentioned, that should tip you off if its the crank/shaftcase that may be the problem.

dayton

i like this idea... although i have had a pressurized line split on me before and it was a mess just as was described...

ultimatejay

iTrader: (1)

If your car is running like crap you obviously have a problem and it has nothing to do with your breather system so don't worry about that right now. Pull the plugs and do a compression test. You should get even pulses as the guage needle goes up. If the needle hesitates or stops and then goes up you have a blown seal. Start with the basics first. Spark, fuel, compression.

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

I replaced the spark plugs with clean ones. Didnt fix the problem.

I seem to be getting good compression (by ear).

I put a cap on the breather that used to go to the charcol canister and also put a non vented oil cap on. The motor is definitely building oil pressure. It started oozing a milky oil out of the front cover and first rotor housing. Also when I opening the oil cap after running it there was pressure release.

So what does this mean? New motor time?

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

From what I understand the motor probably blew a side seal. Could be from the instructor over revving it?

I dont know.

Any advice on the rebuild. I really dont want to rebuild the entire motor. It only has about 6-10k on it. I should just be able to replace the side seals if I understand correctly.

djessence

and the gaskets

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

and install a rev limiter

Kentetsu

I wouldn't blame the instructor though, it was probably due to happen and he just happened to be the one behind the wheel at the time. After all, you were riding with him and saw no need at the time to beat him over the head for how he was driving.

Sorry to hear about the motor though. Hopefully you can get it fixed without too much trauma.

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

it sounds like your motor is doing exactly what the old one in my '82 did. I over-revved it a few times when I first got the car, trying to figure out how to actuate the vacuum secondaries on my Holley carb (it would fall on it's face most of the time above 4k). I'd get it to rev to like 6k, then the secondaries would open up and I didn't have time to shift before burying the needle. This past summer, my motor did the exact same thing that you described. I was overpressurizing my sump and spewing oil out of my filler neck. Did a compression test and it tested 45/45/45 on both rotors. blown side seals, chewed oil control rings, and my motor was blown. Very progressive, just as you described. I'd suggest getting yourself a compression tester (they're cheap), and check your motor. Sorry to say, but i think your motor is dead.