Oil cooler swap what is the easiest most effective
#1
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Always waiting for parts!
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From: Illinois
Oil cooler swap what is the easiest most effective
Ok, I did the oil cooler swap on my car a little over a year ago. The rubber cap that i placed over the old heater line that ran to the original cooler is leaking from dry rot. What is the easiest/effective way to remedy this. Figure I will be buying new caps ever year or so.
#2
either swap to a front mount oil-cooler, or replace that hose.
pretty much your only options.
Mazdatrix should still have that hose available..
if you would like to mod to front mount, let us know and we can help walk you through this.
pretty much your only options.
Mazdatrix should still have that hose available..
if you would like to mod to front mount, let us know and we can help walk you through this.
#3
Thread Starter
Always waiting for parts!
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,637
Likes: 19
From: Illinois
Originally Posted by SS124A
either swap to a front mount oil-cooler, or replace that hose.
pretty much your only options.
Mazdatrix should still have that hose available..
if you would like to mod to front mount, let us know and we can help walk you through this.
pretty much your only options.
Mazdatrix should still have that hose available..
if you would like to mod to front mount, let us know and we can help walk you through this.
I all ready did the swap, (over a year ago) the problem I have is the metal heater hose that goes though the firewall has a "T" on the engine side of the firewall. When you remove the water to oil cooler you no longer need that metal "T" I caped one of the outlets with a nice little rubber cap that i found at advance auto parts. Heater hose cap or something other. problem is after a year or so its dry rotted to the point of leaking. Now what have other people done to make the "T" closed without worry of leaking.
#5
Thread Starter
Always waiting for parts!
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,637
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From: Illinois
yeah That's the one. It's not he easiest one to get to. But I'm swapping out my IDA this week sometime, waiting on the post office for some parts. I was debating on getting a nice piece of 3/4 or 5/8 the heater hose and sticking a plug of some sort in it. The rubber caps just dont last long enough.
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#9
Originally Posted by seanrot
Not to be rude, but did you read?
I all ready did the swap, (over a year ago) the problem I have is the metal heater hose that goes though the firewall has a "T" on the engine side of the firewall. When you remove the water to oil cooler you no longer need that metal "T" I caped one of the outlets with a nice little rubber cap that i found at advance auto parts. Heater hose cap or something other. problem is after a year or so its dry rotted to the point of leaking. Now what have other people done to make the "T" closed without worry of leaking.
I all ready did the swap, (over a year ago) the problem I have is the metal heater hose that goes though the firewall has a "T" on the engine side of the firewall. When you remove the water to oil cooler you no longer need that metal "T" I caped one of the outlets with a nice little rubber cap that i found at advance auto parts. Heater hose cap or something other. problem is after a year or so its dry rotted to the point of leaking. Now what have other people done to make the "T" closed without worry of leaking.
actually, out of honestly, no, I didn't Well i did, but maybe just skimmed it.. sorry really long day, I was thinking of the rubber heater HOSE itself.....
I have used those rubber cabs before, I found them at a hardware store though, they were a neoprene rubber made by "ferco" after about 3 years in the old car I din't have any issues with it. Maybe it is just the specific type of rubber boot you used.
copper pipe-caps on the brass ends to the water heater have also been used... but Mazda changed from the thread in water outlets from the R5 and previous housings... to that pressed in BS. ... it is not brass/copper so the copper cap cannot be brazed on.
Racing beat Suggests a short piece of heater hose with a 3/4" bolt shoved and clamped in the other end. just make sure the bolt has a shoulder and not completely threaded.
i have always wanted to just cut the tube off (with a hack-saw or whatever) just before the tee-itself, and re-connect the heater hose to that.
... moved on to another chassis, and now cannot even use the heater..
Sorry for my lack of thorough reading before, I'll be more cognicent of what is going on.
#10
Originally Posted by SS124A
Racing beat Suggests a short piece of heater hose with a 3/4" bolt shoved and clamped in the other end. just make sure the bolt has a shoulder and not completely threaded.
Yours being an 85 the pipe is pressed in and not threaded like the early ones, So you can not remove it to replace it with only a single out let pipe.
#11
I would suggest either cutting the tee off or findung a plug and cap that will fit tightly and JB Welding them. Do the plug first, any voids left, reputty, let set , then sand and epoxy the cap on. May be over kill, better safe than sorry.
All surfaces must be cleaned thoroughly.
All surfaces must be cleaned thoroughly.
#12
Put a hose bib faucet on it and paint it red. A lightweight leak stopper and conversation piece. Everybody that asks what it is, just say, "I can't divulge proprietary engineering design information".
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