Oil Cooler Fittings
#1
Oil Cooler Fittings
I know about welding the cracks, but didn't someone find some stronger fittings that could be welded one the stock oil cooler several years ago? If so, what are they?
#4
the AN fittings work very well as mentioned above. the stock bungs are very strong if you weld them to the cooler. this is an excellent method if you plan on only using the stock style lines.
#6
Ok, I'm missing something here. An AN-10 male has a flare with the large end at the outside and it tapers smaller toward the inside.
Example:
http://pitstopusa.com/c-136048-fitti...-fittings.html
The male end of the stock fitting that goes into the hose is the opposite, that is the large end of the flare is at the outside with the small end on the inside.
See attached pic.
I are only a college graduate, I do not understand.
Thanks
Scott
Example:
http://pitstopusa.com/c-136048-fitti...-fittings.html
The male end of the stock fitting that goes into the hose is the opposite, that is the large end of the flare is at the outside with the small end on the inside.
See attached pic.
I are only a college graduate, I do not understand.
Thanks
Scott
#7
hoses and cooler you have is a 1st gen front mount
,,, the units with banjo's that everybody is referring to is the 2nd gen oil cooler which has banjo bolt attachmnets
i think you are reading conflicting advice about different oil coolers
when adapting these aftermarket hoses you need to keep a keen eye on the ID
several times now i have seen people fit hoses and adapters that take the ID down significantly
the mazda type hose and fittings work just fine ,, and when you need a repair,, pushlocs can be found in similar ID
no need for ***** fittings that complicate , choke, leak , cost
,,, the units with banjo's that everybody is referring to is the 2nd gen oil cooler which has banjo bolt attachmnets
i think you are reading conflicting advice about different oil coolers
when adapting these aftermarket hoses you need to keep a keen eye on the ID
several times now i have seen people fit hoses and adapters that take the ID down significantly
the mazda type hose and fittings work just fine ,, and when you need a repair,, pushlocs can be found in similar ID
no need for ***** fittings that complicate , choke, leak , cost
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#9
Oil Cooler Repair
Is there anyplace the KNOWS what they are doing with FB oil coolers? Someplace that can weld up the necks properly AND PRESSURE TEST it before they give it back to me?
I'm not in a hurry and I don't mind shipping it somewhere if they will do it right.
Thanks
Scott
I'm not in a hurry and I don't mind shipping it somewhere if they will do it right.
Thanks
Scott
#11
what most people are referring to as far as AN fittings are concerned is custom made oil lines, because the stock lines don't hold up very well.
also, you don't need to post several threads on the same topic.
also, you don't need to post several threads on the same topic.
#14
#15
yes. a friend's race shop locally will do this. they have done coolers for me in the past, to include welding and pressure testing.
#16
If you use AN lines this will help too. I hooked my AN lines up to the oil cooler and pressure tested the whole shebang. Very helpful as if you do it like that it'll test the cooler and all the AN hardware for leaks, including if they weren't tightened enough. I filled it up with 150psi of air and put it under water. The front pressure regulator bypasses @ 150psi so your oil cooler will never see more than that. Letting it sit overnight and checking the pressure the next day = reassurance.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3272
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3272
#17
Welding up the cracks didn't work for me, so I made my own fittings. If anybody wants to make their own, you'll need some 1 1/8 aluminum rod, a 16mm X 1.5 straight tap, and a 14.5mm drill, and probably a lathe. The sealing surface must be exactly perpendicular to the threads or it will leak. I've got some extra material, if any needs a pair PM me.
#18
Welding up the cracks didn't work for me, so I made my own fittings. If anybody wants to make their own, you'll need some 1 1/8 aluminum rod, a 16mm X 1.5 straight tap, and a 14.5mm drill, and probably a lathe. The sealing surface must be exactly perpendicular to the threads or it will leak. I've got some extra material, if any needs a pair PM me.
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