I want to rid of that bee hive ****, it makes me afraid that the coolent hoses are going to go bye bye randomly and then nice damage to the housings and rotors will occur. Plus my goal is to turbo in a month or two (low boost) which oil cooler do I need?

I looked at mazda trix, 81-83 or whatever looks different then 84-85GSL-SE, my cars a GSL 85 so it should have the mounting points for a GSL-SE oil cooler yes?

I have been searching btw, I'm just writing down everything atm, I got a huge shopping list already and don't want any errors, not gonna buy at mazdatrix though thats expensive as hell!, if you have any suggestions otherwise I'm going to look 4 a used one, sadly we don't got rx7's in junkyards here though

Oh yeah would it be benficial to relocate the oil filter? I can do it cheap and I think it'd look decent and may run cooler in a different area.
-- Coolent Questions

See where I circled in pic, whats it called? I need to stop calling it random things and know the actual name so I could maybe google and find a used one thats in better shape, otherwise should I treat the rust on it and throw on a few layers of paint to prevent future rust or can you get replacement ones?

Also I didn't search this but since on the topic, I'd like this setup.

Good radiator (Not street racing status but will keep a stock 12a turbo cool in texas conditions LOL) and a E-Fan which is auto controlled but (maybe) has a option so I could bypass that and put it on low-med-hi with a switch in the car

Thanks guys, I'll go back to searching and looking for parts, appears not many sites sell stuff for our cars

 

Chris,

Get yourself an oil filter pedestal (S1, S2, or GSL-SE) and a FMOC. For the oil cooler, the GSL-SE one will mount right up. The earlier FMOCs were made to mount under the radiator (earlier cars had a 'shorty' radiator). Your car has the tall radiator, so the early FMOC cannot mount underneath. So your options are:

- tall radiator (current) with GSL-SE FMOC
- short radiator with S1/S2 FMOC mounted underneath
- convert to FC oil cooler

The FC oil coolers are nice because they are much easier to find (there are way more FCs than GSL-SEs) and they use banjo bolts at the cooler. The 1st gen coolers have problem with the nipples cracking from people overtightening them. There are a couple threads around ('trochoid' has a good one) on converting to the FC FMOC.

For the radiator, the a good stock one will be just fine. They have been proven to handle lots of power without much issue. The 1st gens get good flow through the rad and the rad is plenty big for the engine. You might go to an aluminum if you are going to be tracking the car a lot, though.

Check around here about the e-fans. There are only a few that really flow enough to cool the rotary. Some cheap JY solutions come off a Taurus, MR2, or Escort. Check out what others have done to find the right year to search for. I would also use an automatic control if you go for an e-fan. The T-stats are not expensive and really gives you the full benefit of having the e-fan (only on when it needs to be) plus it would suck if someone was driving your car and forgot to turn the fan on.

Kent

 

The FC oil cooler sounds nice, maybe the place I sold my wrecked FC to kept the oil cooler, otherwise I'll go bug some buds if they got them

Where can I get the oil filter pedestal I don't know any rotary guys in my area cept whom I got the car from ebay has no FB parts it looks like :X

Is it a bad idea to include this in my thread

The OMP is leaking or the lines, what do I need to remove to see it

oh **** I'll go download the FSM for FB, I forgot about the FSM's, sorry

 

It's cool. 1st gen classifieds on here is the best place to hit for the parts. Search the FS threads or just make a WTB thread listing all of the stuff you are looking for. The oil filter pedestal should be no problem to find. A good GSL-SE oil cooler (with no cracks) would be a bit harder to find. Best bet is to use the FC cooler and get some lines made up (hydraulic shop or some SS braided -AN lines).

For the OMP, just unhook the rod at the carb, pull the lines off the carb, and there are like 2 bolts that hold it to the front cover. Pretty simple. Also search this section about rebuilding the OMP. There are a couple places where you can pick up the o-rings and such for it. Or you can remove/block off and premix.

You will find it a different world as far as parts compared to the FC. There are very few companies who make aftermarket parts and some OEM stuff is NLA. Many times you have to go with used parts or be creative and make your own mods. Haven't had too much experience with the FC guys, but I can tell you that the 1st gen guys rock. Most are very willing to help you out and often people will just give you a part you need or maybe set up a trade. We try to help each other out. Plus there is a lot less rice when it comes to SA/FBs.

Welcome to the 1st gen crowd. Let us know if ya need anything.

Good places for parts:

www.re-speed.com
www.rockauto.com
racing beat, mazdatrix, black dragon auto

 

I just want to identify it's the OMP it's self leaking, through the clear lines would I see oil while running?

I used to read about FB's alot cause my bro has a 79SA (never hit the road though) can't you lock the OMP to always deliver oil or what does that rod do?

Yeah I browse this section once n awhile for years, you guys have your own friendly set... I just dont want to much up abunch of noob threads

 

The oil will run down the lines a bit when the car is off. You should see oil in the lines while the car is running. If the oil is fresh (almost clear) it can be a little hard to tell..especially if your OMP lines are old (they discolor over time). The rod controls the flow from the OMP..so higher throttle gives more oil output. There is a test in the FSM for checking the OMP output.

You can also do a light premix with the working OMP if you want extra protection. If you just wire the OMP fully open, you will go through oil fast and you may smoke at idle and low throttle. These mechanical OMPs usually work well and seldom fail. I would suggest new OMP lines as you can see the oil better and also the old ones are very brittle.

Rotary aviation also makes an adaptor so that you can have a small tank of 2-stoke oil for the OMP to use instead of using the engine oil. Just need to keep an eye on the tank so that it doesn't run out or use a level sensor w/ a warning light.

 

hmmm I might look into that, I'm just cleaning stuff atm though.

On the carb hat (I hear petrolium jelly helps rubber seals) could I let some jelly sit on it for awhile and revive the seals?

Feels like the carb hat hasnt been opened/removed in years, the filter is the first actually dirty air filter ive seen on car that didnt have 200+ miles on it :|, time to get a K&N i guess

I already cleaned it good, had some oil on it the engine burped up haha, carb looks ok but im sure it's pretty dirty.

 

that circled part i just call it top radiator shroud, post on the 4 sale section, make sure that they know you mean the radiator shroud and not the Fan shroud lol

 

Go to the following link in the archives for the beehive to fmoc swap. Any pre-beehive or FC oil filter pedistal will work for the swap.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/cooling-oil-how-install-fc-oil-cooler-1st-gen-write-up-pics-478521/

 

Petroleum jelly can eat up many kinds of rubber (which is why you're not supposed to use it with condoms, BTW) - - PJ will soften latex-based natural rubber, but also make it a lot more fragile; never use PJ on o-rings, for example, as they will just rot clean away over time.

Liquid Silicone is the right stuff for rubber seals. The water-based kind (like you can buy at surf/dive shops in Cali) is a lot more rubber-friendly than the automotive sprays, many of which have a petroleum carrier.

 

that is a very nice and detailed write up, hell yeah

 

Thank you, this will help a lot.