RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

How did you get powering the fan from the coil? The ignition wire being the wire that detects when the ignition is on...Anyway, no big deal.

NEW QUESTION:

I just bought a new Die Hard battery from Sears, the gold one. 640 cca, so it better be enough. Anyway, I started the car, and the volt gauge on my dash read a solid 13.5 volts. I figured, "cool". I jumped out and checked the voltage at the battery. 16 volts...What the Hell? I checked the output from the alternator, and it reads the exact same. Now technically, I know that the two being the same is good, but at 16 volts? And if it really is putting out 16 volts, why does my dash only say 13.5? Also, the very first time I checked the alt with the old battery, I got 13.5 volts output, and 13.5 on my dash. Then it tweaked out (see previous post), and now its outputting a possible 16 volts, but the dash says 13.5. The dash gauge has been exact up until this last measuring, so I dont know which one to believe. I plan to take the alt in tomorrow to have it bench tested just to be sure, unless 16 volts sounds right to you guys...I think its too high though.

~T.J.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Oh, and to answer everyone, it is a thermostat controlled fan with the cheap through radiator probe. But its works well so far, I adjusted it so that the car doesnt get more than a certain distance up the gauge, and Ive never seen it go higher . For now it work, DONT JINX IT!!! .

~T.J.

drivefast_flylow

Well i dont think this was the reply you were looking for but for now this is just to cheer you up. Anyways goodluck on your car and i hope it all works out in the end. Bye from your friend.

-Ben-

Pele

iTrader: (28)

If you've got a radio in teh car, make sure it still works. If the high voltage hasn't fried it, tune it to a few AM stations. Hear a loud buzzing in each one? Does teh buzz change when you rev the engine? If so, the voltage regulator or rectifier in your alternator is gone.

It it's blown, it could have been because of the bad battery.

On my old Honda, I went through two batteries and two alternators within a year... First the alternator started getting weak, causing it to not charge the battery completely. Car batteries are not Deep cycle... They are not meant to be drawn on for a long time. Quick bursts, like starting the car are what they are designed for. Anyhow, when I was driving with lights on, I was draining the battery.

Anyhow, I replaced the battery and then the alternator completely cut out on me. So I replaced it. Unfortunately, between the time the last battery was replaced and the time the alternator was replaced caused enough damage to the new battery to make it flaky. Replaced the battery under warranty. Then the new alternator just cut out. So I had to replace it.

The cause of all these problems? Bad cables... The battery calbes were corroded internally and not conducting the charge to the battery. Having a dead battery put excess stress on the alternator. Also having a poor charging system killed the battery.

$20 in a set of cables and all that crap could have been avoided.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

No radio. Like I said, Im just gonna take it in and have it bench tested today. If theres something wrong with it, Iwont get a new one for a couple days though, cause they will have to wait for a shipment .

I was gonna buy cables, and new terminal clamps...Honest. But then I ran out of money cause I only had $300. The starter was 106.30 and the alternator was 73.86 coming to a total of $228.59 after tax. Then, the battery was 79.99, and I had to actually borrowm more money from a friends Mom (who Im living with) to pay for the rest of the battery. So now Im out of money again, and have the old cables still. Its on my to-do list, thats for sure.

~T.J.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

It's all good, everyone's got thier money troubles...

I suggest the OE style cables with the integrated terminal clamps.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Update: Alt bench tested out ok, putting out 13.5 volts at "idle" and 14 volts "under load". Anyway, I had it checked at both B&B and Schucks. Both gave me the same results. I just decided that my volt gauge on my dash was right all alont (reading 13.5-14 volts), an dit was my meter that was wrong (reading 16 volts). Oh well, everything is great now (knock on wood). Thanks for the help guys .

~T.J.

slingo

TJ you still having problems keeping the car at idle? if you are hold the choke out and see what happens... like i posted earlier:

and you never answered.... if you got it fixed..... how? i read the posts but im tired and i cant get a clear answer so i figured id do the cheap way out and ask :P

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Bottom line, new alt, battery, and starter (un-related).

~T.J.