No power until 5400 rpm
#26
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I know this is a long shot, but is there anyone who could possably e-mail me a diagram of my carb with all the parts and points af adjustment listed. My e-mail is pk7tanner@hotmail.com.
thanks.
thanks.
#27
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Your describing how a car runs when its not getting fuel to the bowl because of a faulty fuel pump, a defective or dirt float needle, or a clogged primary. Be careful when driving it like you have been because you'll be running it lean and getting it hot as a result.
I'd do the following:
1. Put a new fuel filter in the car if you haven't already done so.
2. Start the car and let it idle for a minute and then shut it off. Look through the site glass on both sides of the carburetor and verify that the fuel level in the bowl is to the middle of the site glass. If its not, then you either aren't getting gas because of the fuel pump, or a float.
3. To test the fuel pump, pull the fuel inlet line and pressure test the inlet. You should get between 3.5 - 5psi with the line closed ahead of the pressure gauge. If you don't have a pressure gauge you can just leave the fuel pump on for about a minute and measure the output, you should have over a quart after the minute.
3. If you don't find a problem with the delivery, then pull the top of the carburetor off with the carburetor in place. Invert the top of the carburetor and turn the fuel pump back on. (This is a bit dangerous so be careful). Verify that fuel will flow out of the inlet when you manually move the float up. If its doesn't, then clean the needle and passageways that control fuel delivery.
If you are, then remove the the primary jets and blow compressed air and a bit of carburetor cleaner through them. Reassemble.
Good Luck,
Craig
I'd do the following:
1. Put a new fuel filter in the car if you haven't already done so.
2. Start the car and let it idle for a minute and then shut it off. Look through the site glass on both sides of the carburetor and verify that the fuel level in the bowl is to the middle of the site glass. If its not, then you either aren't getting gas because of the fuel pump, or a float.
3. To test the fuel pump, pull the fuel inlet line and pressure test the inlet. You should get between 3.5 - 5psi with the line closed ahead of the pressure gauge. If you don't have a pressure gauge you can just leave the fuel pump on for about a minute and measure the output, you should have over a quart after the minute.
3. If you don't find a problem with the delivery, then pull the top of the carburetor off with the carburetor in place. Invert the top of the carburetor and turn the fuel pump back on. (This is a bit dangerous so be careful). Verify that fuel will flow out of the inlet when you manually move the float up. If its doesn't, then clean the needle and passageways that control fuel delivery.
If you are, then remove the the primary jets and blow compressed air and a bit of carburetor cleaner through them. Reassemble.
Good Luck,
Craig
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There's a ton of NW rotary support. Check out the NW section and post in there to try and get some guys to help you out. If I'm down there in the next week or so (which is kinda possible), I could try to help you, but that's a long shot (I'm an EFI guy). If worst approaches worst, there's plenty of good shops in your area. Pineapple Racing comes to mind.
Try to fix the carb as is before going aftermarket. You may compound the problem if you try to avoid it.
Try to fix the carb as is before going aftermarket. You may compound the problem if you try to avoid it.
#30
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O.K. I've replaced the fuel filter and the pump seems to working fine, so now I hope I'm getting closer. Somebody had said to blow compressed air through the jets, now I know this is probably a "duh" question? But where do you blow the air through? Is it the lines that are on the top left of the carb or somewhere else.
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O.K. I,ve done evrything Craig mentioned except cleaning out the primary jets, I wanted to know if I need to buy a rebuild kit to this or will it be ok to do with out it (I'm kinda broke right now). One other bit of info, it seems to get worse after I've been driving it for while. Like if I drive it for 45 minutes or so it starts to bog even worse and it always seems to want to cut out when I'm on the freeway get it over 6000 rpm.
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Hello again,
Forget about the rebuild kit right now. If you clean out the primary jets I don't think you'll be needing it anyway.
The primary jets are the little jets that are located in the bottom of the carburetor float bowls Take the top of the carburetor off and you'll see them in the bottom. There should be one for each venturi. (They look like little brass plugs with a hole in the middle)
When you get the top of the carburetor off, you'll need to get a can of WD-40 or carburetor cleaner and push the little red spray tube into each of the 4 holes and then let it rip! Let me know how it goes.
Craig
Forget about the rebuild kit right now. If you clean out the primary jets I don't think you'll be needing it anyway.
The primary jets are the little jets that are located in the bottom of the carburetor float bowls Take the top of the carburetor off and you'll see them in the bottom. There should be one for each venturi. (They look like little brass plugs with a hole in the middle)
When you get the top of the carburetor off, you'll need to get a can of WD-40 or carburetor cleaner and push the little red spray tube into each of the 4 holes and then let it rip! Let me know how it goes.
Craig
#34
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Thank you I've been trying to find out what all I needed to do to clean out the jets. I wish I'd of known this sooner because I already had the top carb. off once before. But the good news is I know how and what your talking about. Hope this finally works. Thanks again I'll keep you posted.
#35
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I have one other question, could having a poor/bad alt. cause your feul pump to not function properly. I'm thinking it may not be getting enough voltage causing it to pump enough feul until the rpm is raised.
#36
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I meant to say not enough feul. The reason I ask is that when Ihave my lights on and my fan is on med. or higher it becomes increasing harder to accelerate.
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I dunno, but I know that getting the alt. checked is simple, just take it of and take it to a auto-parts store, a lot of them have machines that can quickly tell you if it is working, or what is broken. If that is it then replace the alternator. That may or may not be the problem, but its a start
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You need to check the fuel pump pressure and flow, this will tell you if the fuel pump is bad. You then need to believe the results of your test and then move on to the next test. Were you able to check the fuel pump pressure and flow. If so what were the results?
If your running out of fuel because your fuel pump is not pumping hard enough (for whatever reason), or the fuel filter is clogged, the car will usually try to "buck" when accelerating. This has been my experience. If you have a carburetor adjustment problem, a bad air filter, or an igntion timing problem, the car will usually just feel "flat".
When your troubleshooting, you need to try hard to isolate the problem. If you don't, you'll just end up spending a bunch of money on parts you don't need. This is what most of the world does, so hang in there and systematic.
Craig
If your running out of fuel because your fuel pump is not pumping hard enough (for whatever reason), or the fuel filter is clogged, the car will usually try to "buck" when accelerating. This has been my experience. If you have a carburetor adjustment problem, a bad air filter, or an igntion timing problem, the car will usually just feel "flat".
When your troubleshooting, you need to try hard to isolate the problem. If you don't, you'll just end up spending a bunch of money on parts you don't need. This is what most of the world does, so hang in there and systematic.
Craig
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