Kyrle

Hi Everyone,
I have a 79 rx7 non-ported, non-turbo 12a with Raceing Beat intake (w/Holley 465),Aftermarket Accell/Ultra igntion system, Aftermarket Header, stock exaust
pipes w/cat, and an aftermarket through design muffler.
I have done some research on Nitrous and Rotaries and here is what I *THINK* I know. Rotaries prefer wet systems. Wet systems work best ported into the intake manifold. Nitrous systems need an aditional fuel system. Nozzles are mounted in the new intake port(s), mix the fuel and Nitrous, and determine how much HP is added.
Here are my questions:
1) Is it safe for my 12A?
2) Kit or piece together?
3) What is the smallest/largest nozzles I should use and how much HP do they give?
4) How many ports should I have in my Intake?
5) What doI need to do to my Fuel System?
6) Anything else I should know?

Thanks,
Kyrle

Kyrle

Oh yea, forgot to mention,
My budget is about $250

ratboy

iTrader: (1)

I dont know squat about nitrous but is it a good idea on your basically stock 79? I have an 85 Se and I am currently replacing all of the suspension and steering systems before I get heavily into performance mods (eventually turbo). I dont think I could control my car right now if I shot nitrous. I would put that $250 somewhere else first - JMO...

-Erik

Kyrle

I have other upgrades to the 7 other than just engine parts, I am not worried about controling the car (I currently have no probs at all). I am more worried about the engine and other engine related components. Just want to make sure I am not going to spin it apart at the first shot (becuase of ignorance).

Kyrle

Thanks Ratboy, you made me think of another thing as well. I still have the stock differential. Will I need to swap it with an 81-84 before installing nitrous (if I decide to).

-Kyrle

lovintha7

You're gonna need 2 ports. One on the front rotor, the other on the rear. I wouldn't put more than a 25 shot to each rotor (50 shot total) on a stock motor. Nitrous is dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. Lean it out or stall it on the nitrous, your praying for a nasty backfire, normally killing the engine. I'm sure you could get a kit with enough parts for a 2 nozzle system. You'll need to put the nozzles in the secondary ports on the intake. Also, a second fuel pump may be needed to supply the nozzles with enough fuel.

IMHO, NO2 isn't worth it. It gets expensive quick, and you crave more. Soon you'll try a 100 shot, then 150. I don't think anything will hold up after a 100 shot. If you do decide to run NO2, be prepared to buy another motor. NO2 is not easy on engine internals.

Alex-7

You'll either have to buy a used kit or piece one togeather for 250.

Kyrle

How Much should i expect to pay for a new engine (just Main Part of engine)

What kind of parts will I need?

Alex-7

A rebuilt 12A long block from a place like Rotary ressurection will cost you at least $1000 plus shipping.



Just look up the parts you get with a NOS kit and then track them down individually on ebay or somthing.

Kyrle

Do they have a webpage?
-Kyrle

Alex-7

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/

Kyrle

Thanks!
-Kyrle

Alak

iTrader: (9)

NOS + Rotary = BAD


Highly un-recommended. Last guy I seen that ran NOS put a 100HP shot into his engine and blew it. S5 SP N/A with 8000kms on it. He did use it quite a bit, but it quit one day.

Kyrle

I was panning to stick with something alittle smaller like 50-75. Something like that.

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

Rotaries lend nicely to NOS. You already have the intake, headers (I'd still swap out the sock rear exhaust), and ignition upgraded. The next step is a new fuel pump and regulator and you'll be good to go.

Start off at a 50 shot and then tune it up to a 75. Reliability depends on how well the engine is prior to install and quality of NOS installation.

For me, wet was best. Twin wet foggers tapped into manifold, however a plate might be availabe for the Holley.

Spray above 4K rpm and you'll always be fine, but don't miss a shift!


to answer your questions:

1) Is it safe for my 12A? - Yep!
2) Kit or piece together? - I piece together, but a kit might be good for your first time since you probably don't know exactly what you need.
3) What is the smallest/largest nozzles I should use and how much HP do they give? Contact the vendor for this info. Its really fuel pressure specific.
4) How many ports should I have in my Intake? Hopefully your engine has 4 (yes, Im a smart ***) - 2-foggers or one plate.
5) What do I need to do to my Fuel System? Upgrade it, big time. Contact the vendor, but bigger is usually better- make sure to get a good regulator, too.
6) Anything else I should know? Be safe with the install and don't go crazy using it. Start by only using it in 2nd and third gear runs. Then let your skill/ability grow.



Good luck.


Keith

Alex-7

^good post.

blown 83

Now this guy knows what he's talking about!

I have been running my kit for 11 months now with absolutely no problems......except for I can't get enough fun out of the bottle before it needs refilling. I run a 150 shot, using a Nitrous Express Hitman plate system. The difference here may be that I built my 13B to with stand the N2O. You must address your fuel system as whole, as well. I don't un my spray everytime I drive the car either. It's for the occassional V8 that pushes up on me and thinks he's hot chit! Flip the switch, hit the purge a couple of times, and lay the throttle on the floor and see how long it takes that V8 to disappear in your rear view. It's addictive. $30-35 for refill. My setup doesn't like the 10 lb bottle to get down to below 4-5 lbs (500-700 psi), you might as well not even use it. Overall, if you want it, try it. The $250 budget is going to be difficult. Check out NX's website and see what you find (www.nitrousexpress.com). Hope this helps.

Alex-7

^^^^


What spacificly did you do when building your motor to prepare for N20 use?

Kyrle

Oops

Kyrle

You guys are great. Thanks for the help. Still looking for input though. I have decided to go ahead and set it up. A pars list would be great.
Where is the best place to put the nozzles? I know the secondaries, but where. Close to the carb? close to the engine? centered? Can you SAFLEY use a helix coil to 'tap' the ports, or is there too much pressure?
Do all barands use the same bottle connetor?
I think I will be using NOS softplume with 026 jets for fuel and N2O (I am told this is a 50 shot with 2 nozzles) with a holley blue Fuel pump for Nitrous fuel. What do you think?

blown 83

Most specifically...I didn't cut corners. All internals (except rotors & e-shaft) are new. Bearings, hardened gears, new race oil pump & RB 115 psi regulator, new timing component, etc... I wanted a strong engine that I didn't want to have to worry about when I added things to it (ie...spray, turbo).

Kyrle

Did you do it yourself?
How hard is it to rebuild a rotary compared to say, a 4 cyl?
-kyrle

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

Re-building is more of a function of your mechanical skill. For me, it's easy, as I've done so may. For a first timer who has turned a few wrenches, it will be a challenge, but no overly difficult, as the time to complete the re-build will just take darn near forever. The more you do the easier (more routine) it becomes.

I've never re-built a 4-cyl so I can't compare. I find it much easier than working on V-8s though.

Read up on engine mods for a NOS setup. Very similar to Turboing/Supercharging mods. You want to help keep the engine cooler (water jacket mod), heavier duty / hardened oil pumps, better clearences, all new hard seals with lapping of the housings. Get **** about chipping chrome on the housings, and clearancing the rotors, etc. Port match the manifolds.

The big difference is the porting styles. A standard street port will be slightly different than a street port for NOS. Not much, but that little difference does make a noticible improvement. Mainly the internal port and the manifold runners are enlarged to hold a few more ml's (when porting to a port volume).

But NOS on a stock internal motor is fine.

Good luck.


Where is the best place to put the nozzles? I know the secondaries, but where. Close to the carb? close to the engine? centered?

A place that has good flow and is easily accessable for adjustments. A lot of cars are different depending on your setup. People will swear that you have to put it here or there, but look at your intake and see where the most room is. If running foggers, just make sure they are aiming toward the engine. I've had to fix a few botched installs due to the fogger facing the wrong way. I couldn't believe it when I saw it, but stupid mistakes do happen.


Can you SAFLEY use a helix coil to 'tap' the ports, or is there too much pressure?

Just drill and tap- not hard at all. If you screw up, just weld the hole shut, grind it smooth and start over. Just remember manifolds are alluminum. So check the wire before welding. A drill press is helpful but not required if you have a good drill w/ a built in bubble level (most never ones do- you just don't realize it).

Do all barands use the same bottle connetor?

I can't say for sure, but I stronlgy believe thay all are the same for regulation purposes.

I think I will be using NOS softplume with 026 jets for fuel and N2O (I am told this is a 50 shot with 2 nozzles) with a holley blue Fuel pump for Nitrous fuel. What do you think?

Technology changes by the minute, and I'm not too up to date, so talk to others and make the sales man work for the sale. Ask as many questions as possible, and get advice from others before making the purchase, but it sounds like a good setup to me. E-mail or call the manufacturer for questions too. Remember the jetting is influenced by the fuel pressure. Kits aren't 50 HP across the board for many cars. Every cars fuel pressure is slightly different, so call the manufacturer and know what your exact fuel pressure will be. They will then recommend a new jetting setup. You will then learn to buy multiple jet sizes and just play with it fine tune. They do sell some drill bits to re-drill the jets larger as you step up so you don't have to keep buying new jets too. Thats what I did.

Kyrle

I am trying to Keep the stock porting for econemy perposes (everything seems alot more expensive to replace for street or race porting), incase I do blow something up in this process. Atleast until I have some Experience under my belt with this. Are you saying that running nitrous on stock porting wont be harder on the engine than on street porting? Is it worth all the trouble to RE-Upgrade all of my manifolds and carb to setup a street port engine?
I really don't see the need to put my self through all that. Jets dont seem to be too expensive anyways. And if you buy new ones, you can allways go back to your old ones, right?

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

No, its just that you can run a larger shgot when the engine is built for it.

For a stock engine to stay reliable, I'd say a 75 shot is the largest w/o beefing up more things. You can go ohigher, but thats when things start breaking....like things you never knew could break.

Greed will get the best of you, too. On my FC, I ran a two stage setup: 175 shot with a secondary 100 shot comming in at 6500 rpm. Fully built motor. I kept shattering my ring and pinion gears though, and spun a few axles smooth. But the engine held up just fine!!! Talk about fun and getting the worst gas meilage EVER! Beautiful flames at night through the exhaust.

After a while you replace the breakable stuff with hi-performance parts. Gets expensive. I think a crack habbit is cheaper!