i have a de-emissioned nikki carb that i'd like to work for me, and i've driven on it now a couple of times, but the secondaries are completely stuck. the linkage does not wanna turn at all. the butterflies are slightly open, causing excess air, and the idle won't go down below 3,000......i have a unmolested nikki that has sat for a while and im sure it probably needs a rebuild.

i was thinking of transferring the linkage from the one to the other, but was wondering just how much needs to come apart to do this, and whether or not i would need the rebuild kit. i basically just wanna get this thing going and can't afford anything right now. even if its temporary

i also thought maybe i could just make some sort of plate and block off the air going to the secondaries. if i cut off the air, would that too cut off the fuel flow into the secondaries?

nick

 

has this carb bein rebuilt before?
maybe the little butterflys on the secondarys arent put in the exact place as they are oval not circles they need to be dead on center i found this out when i took my linkages to bits for an ultimate clean

 

that must be it....i can't see what else it would be...the linkage is just one rod going through the carb housing....

so does the carb have to come apart? or could i adust them with the carb still intact. it looks like i might be able to get a screwdriver in there and loosen the screws on the buttrerflies, then try and move them?

 

Almost ALL carbs work the same, they attatch to the pivoting rod with one or two screws on the rod itself, i dont know how that could be off center, if the rod itself was offset too much, then i could see it grinding somehow. BTW, if you take it apart, take the butterflys out and make your own out of thinner metal, allowing up to almost 15 cfm more.

 

Unless you have removed the butterflys before, and there really isn't reason to during a rebuild, the linkage is probably binding else where. Get out your stock carb and compare the linkage between the 2. You may find that it is not correct.

Removing the butterflys, with the carb on the engine is risky. Good luck finding one of those little screws if you drop one in.

 

ya definatley dont try to do it with the carb on the car, if you do any sort of rebuilding, take it off. I was thinking that you could just try and pivit the butterflys with a good push of a wooden dowel..screwdriver ect...but i dont think you want to dent the butterflys.

 

there is no other linkage hooked up to the secondaries, as the carb was modded for mechanical secondaries. i took off the wire that operates the secondaries, so it should move freely. i have sprayed tons of penetrating fluid on it, and have used plyers to try and move the linkages. i've already made little dents on the butterflys trying to move them with a screwdriver

what i really need is for someone to have a emissions removed nikki carb that runs fine theyh wanna sell me. and then illl just sell the two i have cheap

 

i agreee with whats stated above
but never pull a nikki apart on the engine as said way to risky im lucky i stuffed a towl down there when i first played with it as i had butterfingers and droped a screw down the hole lol towel save the day

just take the carb to bits theres 3 major parts air horn,main body,throttle body
to play with the butterflys would be best to take throttle body off i think there is a leanency of having a like 1mm i think

 

I found the Mazda carb manual online in a pdf somewhere...can't find it now. It's been a huge help...better than anything in the factory service manual or Haynes manual. I'll keep looking for it.

Rich

 

Actually, I have two of them...this training manual:

http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/file...g%20Manual.pdf

and another one...I'm still looking for the other one.

Rich