i have rebuilt the carb, and while trying to crank the engine I still get the secondary barrels filling up with fuel and the primaries also. Then the fuel begins to slowly seep down.

It also seems to be flooding out.i hold it to about 1500 and after a few seconds it dies.

Any help?

 

Sounds like your floats are set way to high. Im not familiar with the Nikki, but you might need a rebuild on the carb.

 

Sometimes the new needles stick in the seats a bit. Often a tap on the top of the airhorn above each one will remedy this.

Make sure the needle retaining clips are installed correctly so they don't interfere with the float tabs.

Chances are that you do not have to readjust your float levels.

Another cause of this is the float bowl solenoid not being hooked up.

 

float level is set at 2in drop when upright and 5/8 when held upside down.

 

well i got it to rev up and down a few secs and then pushed it to 6k twice and she had had enough. It just seems to get too much fuel for it to handle. My air mx screw is out 2.5 turns.

The screw down by the throttle linkage has got me bugged.

I set the primary plates open at 1mm with the choke valve fully closed like the manual says. With everyting at rest the primary plates are closed. If i screw this screw down by the throttle linkage in it will open the plates. Does anyone know how much they should be open?

 

That's not where your initial problem is if you are flooding. Don't make the mistake a messing with the idle circuit if the floats are not closing yet.

Did you say the drop is set to 2 inches?!

 

I had that happen to mine after i rebuilt my carb, sprayed just a bit of carb cleaner in the fuel intake pipe and things are almost working properly. I can get the car to idle only when the car is fully warmed up (when the needle is about 1/2 way on the gauge) I can hold it there and it will run fine, I can rev it as much as it can goes. The only problem that i kinda have is that the engine keept on flooding after I turn it off and try to restart it. Streling if you have any idea on this problem let me know thanks.


Edit:
__________________________________________________ ______________
Actally I was just woundering would that have something to do with the fuel return? Cause right now i'm not too sure about whats happening but when i open up my fuel tank, the tank can get EXTREMELY pressurized. Thanks.

 

i bought the carb rebuild kit from victoria british. they say when holding the car right side up i should have 2 in from the gasket to the bottom of the float. now if i turn the carb upside down i should have 5/8 " from the gasket up to the top of the float.

 

i seem to have fixed the secondaries from flooding, but now the car starts up and dies.

The only way i can get it to run is by turning the key on, pulling the choke, and manually holding or taking a screwdriver to hold the choke flap closed all the way blocking off the primary barrels. As soon as i let off the flap opens and the car dies. I cant seem to get the idle under control to work with it.

 

That's confusing to have two different reference points of measurement. Kinda silly of them.

You're probably kicking on your "fast idle" linkage when you do that.

When you pull the choke, there's an arm that comes down across a piece of linkage on the primary throttle shaft. It cracks open the primary throttle shafts just a bit, and is "adjusted" from the factory. But if the linkage got buggered up, then sometimes the piece that gets pushed on is bent too far down, and it doesn't raise the idle much.

I suggest that you first make certain your fuel level is right in the center of the bowl glasses.
Then, use the idle speed screw and raise the idle to 2000. Now you're not using the idle circuit to make your car "idle", you're using the main circuit.
Set the idle mixture screw to about 2 1/2 turns out.

Slowly decrease the idle in increments. When the engine begins to "hunt", or studder, then you need to open the mixture screw a tiny bit at a time.
Keep in mind that when you make changes to the idle SPEED screw, you're directly effecting the linkage...the actual position of the throttle shaft. But when you make a mixture screw adjustment, you're adjusting the amount of air/fuel mixture that can come through the idle circuit. For lack of a better description, it needs to equalize, or clear it's throat, or wake-up...Point is, it's NOT nearly as immediate a respionse as when you adjust the speed screw. So be patient. Make a tiny change and wait a second before you continue.

So decrease idle speed and adjust mixture, back and forth until you're where you want to be.
If you can't get it to idle in this manor below 1500, then there is something wrong.

First thing to check is if the throttlebody gasket is reversed. This won't directly block idle passages but it can bleed signal, depending on your model.

I'll keep checking in.

 

i haven't work on isdt yet, but last night my fuel level window was showing 3/4 full.

I have been also referring to the haynes POS manual and after i rebuilt the carb i read the last part of reassembly. It said to check the clearance of the throttle plates under the carb. With the choke valve in the closed positon I think it was around 1 mm of clearance or that much cracked open. So I manually moved the choke untill that top plate was completely blocking off the primaries and checked for the clearance and it seemed to be good. The manual said if not, to bend the fast idel rod untill the clearance was so.

I then checked to see if the throttle plates were open when everthing was at rest and they were closed. If I turn the idel screw clockwise to open the plates it throws off the 1mm clearnce setting. I started with the air mix screw 2 turns out. Then slowly adjusted the idel screw to no avail.

It was only last night when I was about to give up that I saw when I pulled the choke out the top plate was still vertical. It was very easy to move, so I crunk the car and held the plate closed and it stayed running untill I let off and then it would die.

It seems when the car does die, I have to wait about 25-30 secs before it wants to start again.

Thanks for sticking with me Sterling

 

nice talking to you guys......bang

 

I'm rollin.

 

Back from the dead.

I have re-adjusted my floats and think I have them ok.

Car will crank up, go to 3k and after 15 secs I touch the choke she dies. This is with the Air fuel screw at 2.5, 3, 3.5 and 4 turns out. I screwed the idle screw all the way in to get a base point. With the Idle screw this far in and the A/F screw at 2.5 turns out she goes to 4.5k, so I back off the I/S screw to around 3k. I stopped there because this is where I believe a correct working carb will start up to. I have tried alternating between the two screws and it still dies. \

I just noticed tonight my oil metering lines had the oil stopped about half way, so I cleaned them out. Crunk the car and watched the lines and the oil would slowly inch up ----.......----......-----......-----.......------ kinda like that. It took 4 crank and stalls to get themto the carb. From there I have no idea if the oil is entering the carb at the right speed. The coolant temp goes to the first mark and at this mark the choke should be completely in with the car purring, but it still stalls.

 

Something is hanging your linkage up, or you have a leak.
Is the idle compensation valve still in place? Dashpot? AC solenoid?

 

idle comp valve is plugged or same results when i have it hooked to the air cleaner. dashpot is not stopping the throttle, i have about 1/4 of the rod showing. AC solenoid...I don't know about.

I do not have my hot start assist hooked up or my sub-zero cable.

I'm also not sure of the throttle sensor opener.

 

I shifted my attention away from the carb for now. I have never been able to check the timing, I've just went by getting close. So tonight I crunk the car and with the choke out it went real good to 2.3k. Timing for the leading was dead on at these rpm's. I don't know if this means anyting because it's not ideling, but there they are. The trailing was in the middle of the two. I couldn't move the trailing easy enough and it stalled. Can the trailing be so off that the car stalls because of it?

 

The timing specs are for idle speed. At that RPM it should be advanced more.

 

thats kinda what I thought.

 

It must be completely blocked. The circuit runs through the airhorn and mainbody. It's one of the more intricate circuits in the carb.