Does the 1st gen(12A) come stock with the NIKKI carb or is it made by Mazda?

I want the Racing Beat carb/intake kit, but is it cheaper (just as good) to get a rebuilt NIKKI from Autozone?

If i get the NIKKI does it come with all that extra crap all over it???

Any replys are apperciated....and im looking for several different points of views!

Thanks to all!
~andrew

 

Nikki is the stock 1st gen 12A carb.

It comes stock with all the emissions junk.

PM "Sterling" for rebuilds. He's got mine.

 

Hi, and welcome fellow North Carolinian. The Nikki carb can be rebuilt and modified to compair with the Holley 465. The main thing you have to decide is, are you going to do all the supporting mods to gain anything from it. Like you exhaust, emissions removal, fuel pump, etc. If you are looking for the best of both worlds, power and fuel ecconomy, stay with the Nikki. If you don't care about fuel mileage, or having money, go with the Holley. Just my experiance with both.

 

I tried to search for Sterling on the site, but I could not find him.

I actually rebuilt the carb myself with a kit provided by NAPA, but ever since it has not been right.

Is there anyway to get all the emissions **** off the carb? I have removed the rats neast, air pump, etc, but all the other "stuff" remains bolted to the sides of the carb.

Does that affect the car in any way?

Also when the car is ran to normal temp it will not start back up if it is turned off. I will pump the gas pedel while cranking it, but all i get is a few wimpy "puffs."

Any suggestions? And is that just the carb?
~andrew

 

If you aren't to far away, I can hook that Nikki up. I have rebuilt, stripped, and modded Nikkis for a while. My Turbo FB is running a Nikki with 12 lbs of boost. Give me a PM, and we can talk. This is the last one I set up for a stock port.

 

Check out this link bud. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/intake-carb-rebuild-how-strip-nikki-down-648376/

 

I think your carb is messed up somewhere. I had the same rebuild from NAPA and my carb was crap, still haven't figured out whats wrong with it. I just put a junkyard nikki on and it runs fine now.

 

Make sure you get the right carb gasket set for your carb year. I believe all series are different, of the SA is different from the FB. Something like that. I got a rebuild kit from advance auto and they had 2 or 3 different kinds listed.

 

Now I see in your photo that your re-used the black plate under the carb. I really hate that thing!!! I can never remember which ports to plug and which ports go to the dizzy, etc.. I really just want to remove ALL of the little hoses, but if I stripped all the stuff off the carb(or had you do it) than I wouldnt need all of that stuff, right?

And I see you went with that block-off plate(to replace the air pump) on the side of your intake manifold. Does that really help? B/c I've made one, but my car still runs w/o it...?

Thanks

~andrew

 

O, and one more thing....

I didnt know you could run a turbo on a 12A, so how did you pull that off?

And what other mods did you have to do?? And how much HP increase did you get???

....I kno I have alot of questions.....sorry.

~andrew

 

In the archive, there is a thread titled something like "can the nikki be made to perform". It gives great examples of Sterling's work, and what is possible. I certainly have no complaints with mine, I love it. Total cost is way less than the RB setup, and in my opinion the performance is a least as good, probably better. I use my car as a daily driver, as well as weekend racer. The Sterling carb gives me no problems at all.

 

You need to reuse to spacer. As far as boosting a 12A...........you can turbo anything. To make it run right, and not hand granade, that comes down to setup and tuning. When I set up a stockport, with one of my modded Nikkis, I only have one vacuum line coming from the spacer (for the vacuum advance). This would be the second one from the left. If you can get your car inspected without the air pump and cat, then yes, we could remove the entire rats nest, air pump, and cat. If you still have the cat on there without the air pump being functional, the cat will melt down. The two block off plates are part of the emissions removal. You can't do part of it, without going all the way. I can get better performance with or without the emissions, but a little more without.

 

At 12psi of boost, stockport engine, about 200 rwhp. Kinda scary in a car that weighs 2300 lbs. This little vid was at 10psi. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNG6JRoqXu8

 

Dude That video is amazing. I mean the power difference from your car and mine is sick!!! I noticed the little thanks to rotarsports. I

I have contacted them a few times for advice on my miner problems I've been having and they were very nice. I would like to go check it out, but they said they are booked rebuilding motors.

Now I did block off the line coming back to the intake from the Cats. and also blocked it from the intake side as well, but where the air pumped went in/out I just left open.

I would love to have you look at my Nikki b/c I think I did more damage than good when I rebuilt it. So if you are interested in making a little extra doe, just PM me and let me know how much the kits are and how much you are going to want for your (much apperciated) services.
~andrew

 

I had this exact problem, and a new battery completely fixed it. I've had no problems with it not starting for 2 years.

For a Sterling carb, email him at dennis@sterlingmetalworks.com. He is very quick to respond, and very knowledgable. He is backed up for another week or two I believe, and then he's starting on some more. Then he'll be sending me mine...YAY!!