gungadin

My '82 RX7 was parked for about 2yrs and now is very flat for power at lower RPMs. It only seems to wake up around 5000rpms and will actually pull away.
I've eliminated a few things but I have a question.
Is the forward coil the #1 coil?
Does anyone have suggestions for breathing life back into one of these after a long lay-up?
They would all be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Trace the wires back to the distributor cap. The wire that goes in the center of the cap running to the carbon button is your Leading ignition, the other which is offset on the cap and has a point is the trailing. They both run the 2 rotors. The top sparkplug on your engine housing is the trailing while the lower is leading.

brio125

there are leading and trailing coils. the rotary doesn't really put on power until 4000-4500 rpm's anyways so I would suggest doing the routine fluid changes; motoroil, tranny, brake, coolant, even gasoline (hopefully already taken care of). new plugs and wires, air filter, ummm...make sure the tires are not cracked and dry.

if you do all this you should breathe some life back into the car. it will be a blast.

gungadin

Well OK,,,but is the center cap port the one that goes to the coil to the front of the car or the one toward the rear?
Thanks

Jozay721

hold on, dont confuse the kid, top two sparkplugs on engine are leading ,bottom two are trailing. the ignition coil closest to front bumper is trailing(#2 ignition coil) and closest to driver is leading(#1 ignition coil). Yeah other than this info id go with wat brio125 said including changing ur fuel filter, when they get clogged u get crap for power.Good luck!

GavinJuice

Jozay721 You've got it backwards.......TOP Plugs are Trailing, Bottom Plugs are leading. They Lead the ignition as first to spark as the engine spins clockwise as sitting in the car.

Jozay721

are u srue, on the engine its engraved t on botom and l on top???

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Yes Gavin is correct.

Rogue_Wulff

If you are seeing the T on the bottom plug holes, and the L on top, your engine is upside-down..........
Top is Trailing (T)
Lower is Leading (L)
Remember that, and you'll never be wrong.

Bass

Bottom plugs are leading, as is the rear coil.

Jozay721

my engine isntupside down, im upside down,lol.

gungadin

OK,
I figured out the T/L markings for the plug wires.
I need to know for sure which coil is Leading. The front or the back.
Maybe I'll just switch them and see.

Besides that the only thing I haven't done is the fuel filter.
Where is it?

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

as in, coil closest to the firewall is the leading coil, so that lead should go to the port marked "L" on your cap, and your "L1" wire should go to the lower plug on the front housing, "L2" should go to the lower plug on the rear housing. The foward most coil should go to the "T" on your cap, "T1" goes to the top plug on the front housing, "T2" goes to the top plug on the rear housing.

Change:
Oil
-10W-30
-dyno or synth, whatever you want (don't start this battle everyone)
Tranny fluid
-synth all the way, RP or RedLine
Diff fluid
-if you have a GSL or GSL-SE, add LSD addative
-synth all the way, RP or RedLine
coolant
-70/30 mix distilled to coolant
-burp coolant
fuel filter(s)
-mine had 2, one pre-fuel pump, one post fuel pump. they are back by the rear axle. Keep on changing the filter every time you loose performance and havn't changed anything else. With high mileage, you will have alot of tank corrosion and your filter will clog pretty regularly.

Check your timing
-rotate your engine by the front pulley with a socket/ratchet clockwise (while facing the back of the car)
-clean around the first timing mark, and paint it with a toothpick and nail polish/model paint
-hook your light up to your battery, and your lead to the L1 plug wire
-hit your front pulley with your light at idle
-look straight down on your timing peg. the timing mark should line up underneath it
-if it isn't, I can't help you there, because my timing is all fucked up and I can't get my distributor out of the block (my timing is sitting ~90 degrees out of phase, don't ask me how it's so far off and still running, but it is.)

Rogue_Wulff

Fuel filter is located under the car, just ahead of the rear axle.
Generally, the rear coil is the leading, but trace the wires from the dist, just in case someone has changed it around.

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

don't really want to do that, because if someone swapped the wires on the dizzy cap, then you'll be looking at the wrong coil

Rogue_Wulff

The entire reason I suggested tracing the wires. All the wires, including the ignitor wiring.
When I got my car, someone had swapped the wiring around, and it didn't run quite as good as it should have. Tracing the wiring down, I determined the leading ignitor was firing the trailing coil and plugs, and vice-versa.

Kentetsu

Yeah, I ran into this too. My ignitors were leading to the wrong coils, etc. Best to check and make sure that your wiring is exactly what you are assuming it is.

DavidMyers53

I'm "reviving" an '83 12A that sat for 13 years. I was having fuel delivery problems. The gas tank was pretty crudded up. I took it to a radiator shop and had the tank cleaned out. Much better!!!

- David

gungadin

OK boys
I did all the needed "due dilligence" on the car and nothing seemed to help.
THEN! while checking vaccuum lines a discovery!

At the rear of the carb on the passenger side there is a large pod that has two vac lines coming out of it toward the rear. I think it's called the anti after burn valve or something.
The smaller of the two goes to the "coasting" valve and connects near the yellow center electrical plug that goes to an injector? or something. When we disconnected that vac line the car ran perfectly. Finally we just plugged it at the injector thing and it ran great.
So is this part of the cruise control? Possibly something that cuts off the fuel supply to the carb when the coast on the cruise control is used?
Inputs gladly accepted!!