New RX7 owner with lots of ?'s
#26
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From: Waynesville, NC
I guess you cannot see these nuts? I saw one that looks like it attaches it to the motor, and two larger ones on each side of the thing its sitting on. I check more this weekend. I also like to get the oil leak stopped.
#27
do you have a hanyes manual??? at the back of it in the REVISED section it shows the beehive i cant remember but it think that there is 2? nuts you have to unscrew from the pedestal that the beehive mounts to 10mm or 12mm and theres the large and infamous BANJO bolt which is the large bolt that is at the bacl of the beehive nicely snuggled up to the firewall. you'll need to get at that from underneeth the car with a 23mm but make sure that u make a mark on the bolt because it has an inlet to let oil to the beehive and youll want to tighten it back up so that the inlet lines up right.
once you get the behive off you'll see two of the o-rings right away and in order to get at the other two you have to loosen the 3 bolts on the underside that the hanyes manua says to "never loosen" and there will be the other two, jsut make sure when you put those 3 bolts back on you torqe them back t around 90ft lbs
once you get the behive off you'll see two of the o-rings right away and in order to get at the other two you have to loosen the 3 bolts on the underside that the hanyes manua says to "never loosen" and there will be the other two, jsut make sure when you put those 3 bolts back on you torqe them back t around 90ft lbs
#28
Not exactly a complete how too, but here's some pictures of a very dirty engine and the beehive.
The o-rings can be replaced without disconnecting the heater hose and oil hard line, but it makes the job much harder.
Remove the 2) 10mm nuts and washers that you can't see.
Remove the 10 or 12mm bolt you can see, and disconnect the oil hard line and heater hose from the nipple. Both shown in the next picture. Remove the beehive.
You can see the first 2 o-rings in this picture. No they are not supposed to be hard and flat like these. Remove the three 12 or 14 mm nuts and washers (I had both sizes).
Here are the other 2 o-rings. There are indentations where each o-ring fits.
The o-rings can be replaced without disconnecting the heater hose and oil hard line, but it makes the job much harder.
Remove the 2) 10mm nuts and washers that you can't see.
Remove the 10 or 12mm bolt you can see, and disconnect the oil hard line and heater hose from the nipple. Both shown in the next picture. Remove the beehive.
You can see the first 2 o-rings in this picture. No they are not supposed to be hard and flat like these. Remove the three 12 or 14 mm nuts and washers (I had both sizes).
Here are the other 2 o-rings. There are indentations where each o-ring fits.
#29
PO must have been dumb. I replaced them but i always write down how it was even though this is alot easyer than a pistons fireing order. well thats good to know. I wonder how much better it will run. so easy way to remember would be t for top l for lower.
I changed it and what a differnce. It was running good before, but now its kicking *** and taking names. well I feel kind of dumb now but really i just put it back to how they had it. i even double checked my notebook. but biggest difference was when the secoundarys opened. I'm sure glad there wasn't a cop arround.
I changed it and what a differnce. It was running good before, but now its kicking *** and taking names. well I feel kind of dumb now but really i just put it back to how they had it. i even double checked my notebook. but biggest difference was when the secoundarys opened. I'm sure glad there wasn't a cop arround.
#30
Welome from a fellow North Carolinian. There are a bunch of knowledgable people here. Something else to check for on your oil leak is the vacuum line that runs to the oil filler neck, then right below that on the center iron facing the firewall. This is part of your crankcase ventilation (purge valve). These things tend to not work properly as the car gets older. If you are having alot of of condensation in the oil filler neck, and under the cap, this is a sign that the engine is not venting properly. The crancase pressure can push oil out of the center iron.
#31
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From: Waynesville, NC
Thanks again, especially for the pics. It helps someone like me to see pictures. Yes, my oil is right below where you have 12mm bolt in the 2nd pic, is this a sign of a beehive leak? Of course, I have oil residue all down the engine below the behive also.
Thanks Statesville, I went right thru your town to pick the car up in Jacksonville NC. Long trip from the Mountains. Ill check that also.
Thanks Statesville, I went right thru your town to pick the car up in Jacksonville NC. Long trip from the Mountains. Ill check that also.
#32
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From: Waynesville, NC
Can you do this without getting under the car? I dont have any ramps or lift, just a jack and I dont trust that enough to crawl under.
Also, can you get the oil out of it prior to changing so it wont run all down the motor without having to drain everything?
Also, can you get the oil out of it prior to changing so it wont run all down the motor without having to drain everything?
#33
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From: Chino Hills, CA
Get yourself a pair of jackstands. Only set you back about $25, worth their weight in gold.
If you're new to using them, make sure you check the FSM for proper bracing points. Putting them in the wrong place can be... bad.
If you're new to using them, make sure you check the FSM for proper bracing points. Putting them in the wrong place can be... bad.
#36
I agree, before you do any work on your RX-7 get proper jackstands and a hydraulic jack, and please be careful where you place them (an RX-7 on top of you will ruin your day rather quickly)