I guess by now many of the regulars here have noticed that I have posted several questions recently. I just purchased a 84 GS, stock, with about 73,000 miles on it and have been working on cleaning it up this weekend.

So far I have washed, used polishing compound, then waxed it to try and help the paint job. It did help, however it will take new paint to make it look good. There is dead paint on the hood, top, rear top. Several dents in the car also so there will be body work in the future.

I have taken mean green and degreaser to the engine compartment and cleaned it up somewhat, however it will need more work due to the oil leak that runs down the side of the motor to the oil pan. I think it starts where the oil beehive attaches to the motor. I have a small pool of oil on top of the engine about where it says MAZDA 12A, just to the right of the place you put the oil in. Can someone tell me if this is indeed my problem?

I changed the belts due to them being cracked very bad, lost the Alt. belt. I could not find the right size belt for the air pump? Anyone know???

I put a little vasoline on all the rubber seals on the doors and back window to help them last longer.

I have drained the coolent and replaced with new Preston.

I have drained and replaced the rear axle gear oil (Thanks to RX Doctor for telling me that all I needed was a simple 3/8 ratchet.

I have put some seafoam in the gas, as well as the oil today and plan to change the oil tomorrow. I will also run a little seafoam down the intake.

Two problems that I know of, but do not know how to fix are the door key cylinder needing a clip. Anyone know where I can get one?

The other issue is with the Tach, it seems to not work in the mornings when the car is first started, however, once it warms up, it appears to work fine. Any suggestions on this?

Also, the headliner is coming down in the back next to the back window, how to fix??



ABOVE IS WHAT I HAVE DONE

Please tell me what else I may need to do to be sure this car continues to run well for me.

I also need to know about the moulding protector that fits between the windshield moulding on top. I see I can get it and a few other things from Black dragon, is this the best place to purchase products to fix this thing up?

 

Yes, best place to get the little nick nacks would be BD.

As far as the Oil problem, I would suspect 2 things, either a cracked dowel, which is highly unlikely, or the beehive itself is leaking.

When you start the car next time and its cold, start it up and see if you have a tach or not. If you do not, then take one of the trailing plug wires off and put a plug on it and see if you can get some spark. No spark is typically igniter problems. If you do have spark then check your signal wire off the trailing coil, I believe it is yellow with a blue stripe? I will check on it real quick.

 

Turns out it is yellow with a green stripe, sorry.

 

Also, my tach doesn't work when it's cold either, but a member on here named Crit suggested that the dampening gel at the base of the needle that is there to keep the needle from bouncing all over the place and waving at me when I hit bumps, is just so cold, it thickens to a point where it doesn't let the needle move until the engine bay and interior cabin temps rise a bit.

 

trailing plug wires off

Which ones are trailing plug wires? the top ones or bottom?

Would it help if I changed the plug wires? Probably still have the originals, just a guess.


87 turbo, that could be my problem, I live in the Mountains and temps have been below freezing the last two nights.

 

the distributor cap is marked L1,l2,t1,t2 the t's are your trailing wires and after talking to my son he had taken my extra clips if you will pm me with an adress I will send a clip to you

Alex

 

Trailing are the top plugs.

 

Wow, thanks axle, PM sent.

Thanks, Jeezus, do you think I should change out the spark plugs and wires just because I do not know if it has ever been done? I will post some pics tomorrow and maybe you can tell me if they are original or not.

Thanks again

 

it never hurts to change plugs and wires if you can or to change all of your fluids if I remember right you have all ready started that might want to replace all your fuses while your at it if you didn't trust the PO the fusable links to while your at it just so you know thier good

 

I would check and see if they are getting spark first. You can always replace them after, even if they have sparks.

 

Toss in a cap and rotor for the distributor as well for good measure. Check the pads and brake rotors for wear.
Sounds like the leak is coming from the oil cooler.
For the air pump belt, mazdatrix part# 13-7150-1757.
But if I were you I would simply do away with that old air pump!
Replace all cracked or worn hoses/vacum lines. It never hurts.

Also look for rust!! Especially on the inner rear wheel wells. Almost every 1st gen I've seen has this rust. Hopefully yours isn't too bad, or better yet non-existant.

Where in NC are you? You said you were in the mountains. So am I!!

 

Vaseline is not the best thing for rubber or neoprene - - it will dissolve it.

Better to get some food-grade silicone spray (dive stores carry it; some hobby stores, too); it has no petroleum carrier and will not harm the rubber.

 

Oil leak is probably coming from the 4 o-rings under the beehive. They get hard and stop sealing. You can get them from Mazda, Mazdatrix, or remove one and match it at your local Auto Parts or Hardware.

Plugs, cap and rotor is first thing to do.
New fuel filter is second.
Third, download the FSM and wiring diagram (84-85 are the same) http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html

I have many lock clips. PM if you haven't found one yet.

 

Also, that oil dripping down onto your heater hoses will ruin them.
So once you replace those O rings, swap out those hoses too.
This will save you from a roadside breakdown,
and possibly an overheated/destroyed motor.



.

 

Thanks 74RX4, I printed most of the manuals.

Thanks Mtnscreamer for the part number. If I take the air pump off, will it mess up anything? The car came from Cali so Im sure it full of emisssions stuff.

I live right up the road from you in Waynesville.

Thanks Kent, yes, I can see the two hoses below covered with oil.

How hard is it to replace the o-rings? Are the directions in one of those shop manuals I just printed?

Thanks again everyone for the responses. I am writing them down to take care of one at a time.

 

Fusable links, what are they and where are they?

 

fuses protect equipment, fusible links protect wire .

On a 1st gen there are 3 on the drivers side fender .

They look like jumper wires .

I think that one is main power, one is headlights and the 3rd is headlight retractors

 

The fusible links are the main fuses for the car. Look on the divers side strut tower. Its a little brown box.
Also, look here for stuff that you might want to do. (FAQ page)
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/1st-gen-rx-7-faq-page-237777/
Stuff like removal of rats nest, emissions, fuse box conversion, etc...
all highly recommended.

Btw we should get together sometime. Its just a 20 min drive! let me know if you need any help on this stuff.

 

Check the 2 little clear oil metering pump oil tubes coming up to the intake from under the water pump, if one is off it will slowly pump oil up onto the top of your engine. I once had the same oil problem and spent hours on end freaking out cause I couldnt find a leak, only to find one of my omp lines came off the intake. Just a thought.

 

Ill do that James, I saw these clear tubes the other day when replacing the belts, I just did not know what they were/did.

Thanks, Rb

 

I also need to find a how-to on replacing beehive o-rings.

 

are you sure? I'm a newb to rotorys. but looking on the rotation of the engine shouldn't the bottom plugs be trailing? thats how my cars plugs are and it runs great. but if i'm wrong I'd like to fix it

 

Trailing on top

 

a good way to remember is trailing is top leading is lower.

 

to get to the o-rings under the bee hive just losen the nuts that hold it on they are under the bee hive pull it straight up you should be able to find them from there then just replace and reinstall the bee hive