Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Rebuild your own carb. It's easy. Rockauto.com for the kit.

TheRX7Project

iTrader: (3)

As long as you have power in start and run to the coils it doesn't really matter where it comes from.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Ok I'll say it because nobody else has. Why did they install a totally stock 12A? Did the car need to pass emsissions or something?

What you need to do is remove everything that's not needed. Of course you don't know what that is, yet, but there is information on the forum for how to remove the rat's nest and all the crap on the carb, plus block off the holes and fittings in the manifold. Then you can do reliability and power mods while you're in there like ignition (DLIDFIS) and exhaust (long primary). I'd also recommend swapping to a light steel flywheel because the stock one will feel heavy in a car like that.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Sterling might have died. He certainly doesn't do any RX-7 stuff anymore. The Nikki is an easy carb to work on after all the emission crap has been removed. Go ahead and visually compare a Sterling Nikki to your stock one and you'll see what I'm talking about. A stripped down Nikki is the way to go. They run better too, actually.

As for the manifold there are right ways to block off the emissions fittings and less than ideal ways. A simple ACV block off plate is a good place to start for a noob, but it's not the whole story. You need to look into blocking the actual ACV port in the engine (intermediate plate, below the two port runners). You should also install freeze plugs in the coolant ports for a cooler running intake manifold. Don't do one and then not the other, as blocking the coolant ports only will let hot exhaust gasses pulse into the manifold and heat it up. Don't believe me? Give it a try. Actually, don't. I'm trying to save you some headaches down the road. The shudder valve and a big secondary runner emissions fitting need to be addressed too.

Key switch must be bad or not hooked up right. Power should be on the coils in "START" and "ON"

Same power feeds. What good would separate do? The original Tr7 feed can be used but it might have a small wire. Remember you're powering two coils now, not one. I have a rotary powered MG Midget where someone hooked it up like that. Worked ok. Then I got serious and did a direct fire upgrade (three coils) with a relay and all that. You have a lot of reading to do.

TheRX7Project

iTrader: (3)

While I mostly agree, I don't think the stock flywheel will feel any different than in an FB. I can't imagine there being much weight difference between the two cars.

It is really odd that they swapped in a bone stock 12a. Maybe they had it laying around, and the Triumph motor was blown.

RX7TR7

I fixed the coil issue the previous owner had it hooked to a relay for some reason. I jumped it out and the car ran great with fuel poured down the carb.

The carb isnt working at all so Im going to pull it for a rebuild. But when I looked at it it seems like I have to disassemble like half the carb just to get to the bolts. Is there a trick to doing it?

Also if I do all the mods to the carb will it have trouble idling in traffic and starting in the winter? I plan on daily Driving it and I want it to run as well as possible.

Also how important are the intake mods?

Is it a better idea to buy a Holley manifold and an Edelbrock or Holley 390 and bolt that on instead?

MosesX605

The carb to intake nuts are hard to get to but it can be done with a thin enough wrench and some patience. I wouldn't jump into modifying the carb just yet until you've got it running. Since the engine was installed with full emissions, you might have a catalytic converter that will burn out if you ditch the air pump, ACV valve and associated solenoids. Besides, why introduce more variables into this equation?

Strip the carb down, clean it, blow some compressed air through the fuel passageways, emulsion tubes and jets. Then throw it back together with all the bits and reinstall along with your new fuel pump.

RX7TR7

I actually dont have cats. I checked already. I kind of agree with you though about keeping it stock until I know what I have. Is the rock auto kit the best rebuild kit I can get. Ive bought some really poor quality kits in the past and dont want to again.

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

I used the rockauto kit with good success. I'm a cook, not mechanically inclined, and it's just a matter of following directions. You really need to read a bunch of threads and internalize some info. Makes it easy.
The Nikki is the best fuel delivery device a 12a can have. It the most responsive and efficient option. There are actual scientific reasons for this. If you google 'Sterling metal works wayback machine' you can read Sterlings take on this. It's good reading. There are some of his threads on here, as well as some by others that are amazingly informative and make what seems like voodoo into something very simple.