txredneckmedic

I am picking up a 84 RX7 this week, needs a new fuel pump and a battery....supposably thats all thats wrong with it. I only paid $300 for it so im kinda concerned....specially since I couldnt hear it crank since it didnt have a battery. What should I do before I start it up? I am planning on getting this fuel pump for it:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...number=PRO04SV

and a new battery. Also going to change the spark plugs and new air cleaner along with oil filter and changing the oil. Ive been reading alot on here and see that alot of people recomend the NGK plugs....so im gonna go with them even though their like $5 a peice out here.

now a couple questions....should I just wire up the fuel pump to a switch instead of the way it is now? Im also planning on eventually getting the electric fans soon, so they will be on another switch. Do I need to have a fuel regulator on the fuel line? and if so....what kind is the one to go with.

Heres some pics and the original add that I got the car from.
http://elpasochat.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5604

Any info is appreciated.

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

only use ngk spark plugs.
20w 50 castrol.
i would dump a little oil down the carb and maybe the oil filter neck if it hasnt ran for a while to lube the rotars on restart- up.

txredneckmedic

I was thinking of putting a lil mystery oil into the spark plug holes and let it penetrate for a lil bit before starting. Ill probably be using 20/50 valvoline racing oil as thats what i use in my motorcycle and it works great.

txredneckmedic

anyone got any more ideas?

bliffle

Squirt a little MMO in the spark plug holes first. I'm against heavy weight oils: if it was better the mfg would tell you to use it. My experience with boingers was that it lead to galling and sticking rings. If the engine is worn heavy oil won't replace steel.

B

TurboSE

Black FB! ...................Nice! You shoul do a complete tune up and Get new Fluids Tranny/rear end and clean the gas tank!
ANd dont 4get to put some MMO
I just put some MMO in my tank and Oil yestarday and I felt the difference/ I even breath better

txredneckmedic

Now...ive been reading....WTF is a ignitor?

txredneckmedic

and how do i change tranny fluids on this thing

txredneckmedic

bump

TurboSE

igniters are those things attached to Ur distributor W / a plug/harnness in
the front one is trailing and the rear one(towards The driver is leading) I THINK! Guys correct me if i'm wrong!
And to change the fluids on the tranny and diff
Just drain it (them 1st ) The big bolt in the bottom of the tranny
and the put it back in
Theres another (square looking bolt in the drivers side of the tranny .....That's where U fill it up
Get a hose or some thing / U have to be patient B/C oil Is thick and its hard to get it through the hose
I allways Use my VAC/ Brake bleeder to do this

TurboSE

oh ya! and they control/send the signal or current to Your Igniton Coils

txredneckmedic

And from what I understand they fail alot....is there anyway to change this?

TurboSE

pull'em out
go buy some "thermal paste(grease)@ radio shack
and apply some to the back between the dist and igniter
Or even better Mount them on an aluminum HEAT SINK

txredneckmedic

so its a heat problem. Should I invest in extras? ive seen them on ebay lately for like $10 i think

TurboSE

yep! it's allways good to have a couple spare ones!

txredneckmedic

im guessing theres no way to change it out to another form of ignition then

TurboSE

U can Go w/ a stand alone ECU
But thats BANK! or do a 2nd gen system<<<<PAIN IN THE ***!!!
Just stick w/ the igniter/coil setup
and do DFLIS Or 2n gen Direct fire
It works good and its cheap/ REmember our cars are 20+ years old!

TurboSE

20 year parts giving up ....Abuse and heat/water/etc
I think mazda did a damn good job back then
compared to all the other Cars(parts) 4 its age i think our seven's are pretty reliable

txredneckmedic

ok....i was trying to find info on the dflis and couldnt understand it. how expensive/hard is the 2nd gen direct fire


I guess im feeling a bit overwhelmed as Im trying to understand this whole rotary thing in just a few days...hehe

TurboSE

VEry Simple(EASY) get the FC coil(leading)
open the back
disconnect and remove Ur Stock leading coil(the one towards the front of Ur car)
the thin from Ur car (yallow/green)goes to the - on The FC coil
the fat Black/yellow goes to the + of the FC one(trhough the resistor inside the FC COIL)
The resistor is the white thing inside the coil.....One end goes to the Black/yellow in the car and the other side to the + in the FC coil
Then the last step is......The hardest! Tryng to find a spot To mount The FC coil LOL

txredneckmedic

bump....anyone got anymore advice?

txredneckmedic

Ok.....so ima bump this one more time. Seems like what I should do is a oil change, tranny fluid change, rear axle fluid change, clean the carbs....put some MMO into the engine via the spark plug holes, maybe clean out the tank depending on if its dirty or not, replace the fuel pump, battery, cap, and plug wires. The fluid in the tranny/rear axle....is it the 90 weight oil? Also is it a bad thing to wire the fuel pump to a seperate switch? and do i need a seperate fuel regulator? Oh and eventually switch out the ignitors to a 2nd gen system along with the fuses.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Cooling system!!
Get to a rad shop, get the rad pulled and dunked!! Like wise get the block flushed! every 2 years!!
50-50 with DISTILLED water (or whatever mix your climate demands, but 50-50 minimum for summer).
Change ALL water hoses (meaning heater hoses too!!) - so no surprises later on. A bad or even mediocre cooling system is DEATH to a rotary!!
Remember to CHECK YOUR OIL WEEKLY. Rotaries burn oil quicker than boingers by design. 300-800 miles going thru a 1/2 to a full quart is normal. But each RX is a bit different, so you need to keep checking to get a fix on your consumption. Castrol 10-50. Don't bother with synthetics. change every 3000 miles religiously and
ENJOY!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska