Leshrak

Hi, I just picked up a 1983 RX7-GSL about a week ago. Went to get and emission test and failed miserably (very high HC and CO.)

Anyway I've been cruising through the old messages and using the search function a lott and was wondering if you guys could help me out. This is what I plan too do to try and pass emissions and hopefully get the car running much better.

ATF soak/ Marvel Mystery Oil.
I think I simply put 2 oz in the plugs and rotate too fill all the sections. Any links or further explanations would help immensly (I live far outta town where it's very windy and don't really like my neighbors so the smoke is no problem)

Replace the Oil and add a bit of MMO in it.
- Any help with what type of oil is good for our cars (I live in Colorado and it gets frigging cold) and amounts of MMO too add would help too.

Replace the air filter (already bought)
And dist cap and rotor (already bought)
replace the spark plugs (already bought NGK's, and the wires are new from previous owner)

I also hope to do these on sunday, just for peace of mind:
Radiator fluid flush (also had to replace the top hose as it was leaking)
Replace the clutch and brake fluid

Also it would seem that by the amount I failed by, and the amount the last emissions test passed (very easily) I would have either a vacuum leak somewhere, or my carb/timing is set wrong. Am I off on these guesses, any help is appreciated.

Also it leaks a little oil out fo the front main, and it's idle doesn't go down to 1000 or so unless you pull back on the gas pedal. I'm guessing this is just a return spring or something, but any help with that would be appreciated.

and one more thing. Occasionally when I go drive it, it doesn't like to rev up. When I push the gas, the revs drop a bit and then go up. Needless to say it makes the car kinda fun too drive since I stall fairly frequently. Anyone else have this problem? It doesn't happen all the time, but when it does it only seems to go away overnight. I usually have to let my clutch out slowly after letting it rev to about 4k-5k to keep from stalling it.

Otherwise I love the car, very fun and I hope too learn a lott fixing it up (I'm new to working on cars, but really want too learn and I have someone helping me when he's available)

P.S. I'm on fairly limited funds, poor college sutdent working crappy job. After Christmas presents I've probably got about 400 bucks to spend on it right now. And I would like to get a kit to fix that front main and hopefully my window channels with part of that. This post is long enough already, so I think I'll stop now =]

hanman

I think you are on the right track. Do the ATF first, then proceed with the general tune up. The ATF will foul your old plugs. Go to www.mazspeed.com for the info on the ATF. It is in the FAQ section. Check the timing too. On the carb, there are two return springs for the throttle, make sure they are both hooked up. Clean and lube the linkage, you shouldn't have to pull up on the gas pedal to get it to return to idle. I would definitely replace the fuel filter while you are doing all this, it is a very cheap item and should be replaced on a regular basis.

This will get you started, go from there and see how it does on the emissions test. If all else fails, move to Kansas we don't have emissions laws. just kiddin.
hanman

Denny

Hiya Buckaroo....

I won't get into the ATF vs MMO debate...Suffice to say I'm the main MMO supporter on this forum and basically MMO is meant to be burned, ATF is not....But ennaways, MMO in the spark plug holes, spin the engine either by hand or with the starter a wee bit to get all the housing covered. Clean the plugs, or get new ones. Yes, rotor/dist cap/wires, but it looks like you've got this covered. O2 sensor? And most definately the fuel filter. Get a good can of spray lubricant, not WD40 it's water soluble. Shoot the springs, and all pivots on the carb, and the cable linkage where it slides into its cover....Oh, don't forget a new air filter. Check the timing, and adjust if needed....

Our best to yuh, Cowboy...
Denny, from the 'ol corncrib....

P.O.S. Racing

If your catalytic converter is toast, you’ll also get some high HC & CO readings.

I also like MMO, less smoke!

BTW, Congrats on your new ride!

Leshrak

Thanks guys, after work today I'll be picking up lotsa stuff from pep boys =].

Also is it ok the only soak the MMO for about 15 hours? The car is my daily driver and I only have 1 day off a week, so if I could just put it in after my car cools when I get home and let it set till tomorrow morning/noon would it be ok?

I should post more later, but right now I have to go to work.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

The longer the better. Try it, but 15 hours is a bit too short in my opinion.

Try premixing about half a quart to a full quart of MMO into a full tank of gas. (Pour the MMO in first and then pump. The gas flowing in will stir it up.) That'll help a bit.

Do NOT goto the emissions inspection with the MMO still in your tank. It'll just help you eat away carbon deposits as you drive.

The symptoms you describe aslo indicate you may be rinning slightly rich. I have posted the proceedure somewhere. I'm too lazy to go look for it now. If you wanna search, go ahead. I'll cut n paste it later.

Good luck

Leshrak

Update:
Bit tired, but the car is running pretty damn well =]

Did the ATF treatment, but only left it on for like 16 hours, I'll do it again next week for the full time, especially since I bought a gallon of the stuff =]
Replaced the spark plugs, dist cap and rotor, air filter, and fuel filter.
Also adjusted the timing and the air valve on the carb, and oiled my throttle springs and worked them out a little bit =].


Threw some "carb cleaner" in my gas and I hope too change my oil and oil filter then run the gas down to about 1/4 or 1/8 of a tank tomorrow morning and add some of this emmission pass stuff to my gas before going in too the emissions center

But otherwise the car is running much better. It idles very well at 750, the exhaust smells much less like gas now =], and the tach drops all the way too idle when I let off the accelerator and winds up much quicker when I give it some gas.

P.S. the previous air filter is blue and is basically just a foamish filter around a wire mesh. Can anyone tell me what filter this is, and if it worth saving and buying a replacement for the foam or cleaning it somehow?

After emissions test tomorrow I'm gonna go ahead and run my tank too near empty and fill her up with MMO and 87 octane gas (this is the best octane for N/A 1st gens right?) and throw some MMO in the oil as well. Next weekend I'm gonna flush the radiator, order my window channels, and replace the clutch and brake fluid while inspecting all the parts again, ordering anything that may need replacement or rebuilding. Sound good?

I really want too get this car running very well as soon as possible, then work on making her look pretty (thinking about removing the side trim, filling all the little dents and sanding down any rusty scratches and filling those as well, and then taking her in for a nice blue(or black or dark grey) paintjob. Then fixing the interior lights, and getting some of the missing parts put back in.

After this week (last week of this semester) I will have a lott of time too work on her, so I'm grinning from ear to ear in anticipation.

yayarx7

I have an amsoil air filter that sounds a lot like what you are talking about. FWIW i paid like $25 bucks for it (instead of buying a $30 K&N) about 7 years ago from RP. I wash it real good in hot soapy water and let it dry, then soak it in ATF, after wihch I squeeze/wring the excess out and reinstall. messy but works well enough.

just my $.02

Rotor13B

Hey Leshrak, what part of Colorado are you in? Oh, and congrats on the GSL, i also own a 83" GSL with some minor upgrades....lol If your not to far from me, maybe i can give you a hand with your car. good luck with the car, there a blast to drive...=)

Leshrak

I live about 20 minutes east of Colorado Springs, in Ellicot(t). You might have heard of it, a tornado came through a ripped up the schools here I think. =] I'm fairly new to Colorado myself, so any tips of machanics or bodyshops/paintshops would be of great help too =].

Leshrak

Well...... failed emissions again.
dropped my CO levels a lott (at .5 now)

My HC's went up though =[ about 2200.

I replaced the fuel filter, air filter, plugs, dizzy.
We also adjusted the timing and idle screw (the one on top) to great levels yesterday. Unfortunately the car didn't want too hold idle, right when I pulled up to the emissions place.

I parked and Tom came over with tools and a timing gun.

Set it up, but we had to readjust the timing (advance it a couple degrees) and the idle screw just too get it too idle (around 1200.)

Now I'm starting too guess that it's either the cat, or I can't time and adjust worth a crap.
Can anyone give me some tips, or a place that you can buy off the emissions guys?

I just wanna register my car......

slimdave

There is a narrow pipe running from the engine to the main converter down the right hand side, and you should check that it is not getting eaten by rust and leaking where it joins the cat. If there is an air leak there I could see that causing high HC levels.

Leshrak

Actually it turns out that I don't even need emmissions where I live (wish I researched that earlier.)
Even figured out what the previous air filter was (foam air filter from Racing Beat.)
I will be checking that connection however (if I can have lower emissions, I might as well)
Although I've found some more problems that need work (or rather they found me.)
My idle does likes too wander around. Ranging from about 700-1200, this alone causes some problems at stop lights. Sometimes the throttle seems too surge at low RPM's (on/off/on/off) makes the car buck a bit too. And acceleration seems too bog (tach drops, then goes up when gas is applied) I'm going too be rebuilding the carb fairly soon(within a week.) But tomorrow I'm gonna try and find any vacuum leaks, and track down a coolant leak I seem too be having (car seems too be burning off coolant when I stop, nice smoke coming out of the engine bay from a lower area.) Is there anything else I should check?

Also when I have my car heater and lights on my idle lowers itself down about 500rpms. Makes it very hard too drive at night in the Colorado cold, as I'm constantly shifting too neutral at a stop light/turn and having too pull my choke too keep the car alive. Is this normal? I have no idea what's causing it if it is. Help would be very greatly appreciated.

And one more thing. My gas tank leaks a bit. Does anyone elses gas tank leak? Is this fairly common and is there any specific points I should check?

P.S. Thanks too everyone who has helped, I'm really enjoying the car despite it's "quirks" (aka problems)