I am not getting spark from leading coil at all. I am a little unfamiliar with the order of ignition. could this be a bad igniter if so what are my options?

 

My bet is the ignitor. There like 200+ new, but I got some out of the junk yard for 2 bucks apeice. use some heat sink compound (radio shack) when reinstalling. Also if you need the car running now swap the trailing with the leading, you may not have a tach depending on year. but thats how I got my car home when I blew my leading

 

Leading ignitor is on the front of the distributor. Trailing is on the side next to the alternator. You can swap them to see if one is bad.

 

can i replace the bad one with a gm model or is that direct fire only?

*edit* found a post about it can I just wire the gm 101 in to the system and run it? The post was confusing. Started talking about direct fire.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=ignitor

 

leading ignitor was indeed bad thanks guys, car hasnt started yet which means dmg to rotor or flooded ( to those who helped in my other thread)

 

ok no starty could it be that I am only using a leader igniter no trailing? I am trying to avoid thinking about bent rotors and lost seals.

 

What year is the car? The 84-85 need trailing to run the fuel pump. 12A or is it a GSL-SE?

 

well **** i wish I would have known that sooner its an 85.... I just got a donor car for spare parts motor has 135K on it and is in unknown shape. but at least I can try it! thanks guys! I will swap igniters and try again, I had poured a couple of teaspoons of fuel down the carb and nothing happened but I will try it before I pull motor! You guys rock!

 

I also read your other thread. Search for "ghetto compression test". Baasically you pull one trailing spark plug, crank the car, and listen for even whoosh..whoosh..whoosh. Put the plug back in and repeat with the rear rotor. Easy way to tell if something is majorly wrong compression wise.

BTW: also search for "fuel pump relay". There is a thread in the 1st gen archive about how to bypass it. If you bypass it, you won't have to worry about trailing ignitor for now and the fuel pump will just run whenever the key is in the 'ON' position. The '79-'83 cars are that way from the factory. That will at least help to eliminate another possibility.

 

motor in question is a 12a